26 replies to this topic

[N/A-PWR]

old fuel stinks when used

Good Luck Leigh

[WhaleOilBeefHooked]

Wouldn't there be a high possibility of flat spotted bearings, lifter to cam lobe damage and general surface rust on anything that wasn't covered by oil ??????

[warrenm]

Did the engine have oil pressure when it was stored? Reason I ask, is the Holden V8can be difficult to get oil pressure if the oil pump is dry, it may need packing with "vasoline" so that it will pull oil from the sump, once primed it should be ok. Other than that what Bomber said should work.

[TerrA LX]

I would not wind the motor over to gain oil pressure in ANY event.
Fresh break in oil.
If it were my motor I would spring for a few gaskets where needed, pull the inlet manifold and rocker covers at a minimum and re lube and  reset the rockers, and if all the cam lube has wiped off I would pull the cam and re lube it.

Repack the oil pump.

 

Have reassemble and have the motor ready to fire when you hit the key and follow the usual break in procedure.

[TerrA LX]

TerrA LX what is the concern with firing the engine first and not turning over to ensure oil pressure, I would have thought ensuring oil would be ideal? I have spoken to a couple of people that rebuilt their own engines years ago that never ran in their cams, is it that important what would be the down side to not doing it exactly right?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to understand.

Leigh

 

 

Don't be sorry, you only know if you ask, the dumb question is the one not asked, anyway, that's why we have a forum, to discuss these issues.


Having worked in and around the industry for several years and having built several motors myself, I have always been told and experienced, the quickest way to get usable oil pressure to where it is needed most is with a running engine, FWIW most wear is experienced at start up, so imagine having to wind a motor over several times more that is needed to start it, for one, you have just wiped away all the cam protection the builder has placed on the cam etc.

Secondly, the cam, big end and main bearings rely on an oil wedge built up when the shafts rotate, this oil wedge floats the journals, preventing metal to metal contact, if there is insufficient oil supply (remember oil pressure alone is not an indication of supply) wear will occur.
A little on oil pressure v's supply (flow), if you have a really thick oil and crank the motor on the starter continually, you will see a high pressure reading yet flow is not yet at a viable rate.

I could babble on for hours about boundary friction and the oil wedge principal but I think you are better off researching yourself.

True story, A went to a friends house to check a "rebuilt" 308 he just bought to put in his Torana and was going to give it a quick look and a lick of paint, I found two separate valves Collettes not not seated correctly, head bolts lose, cam worn to the point of non serviceable same for the lifters, etc etc.
Now, if you had this motor rebuilt by a reputable builder it may just need re lubing, if it was an Ebay special then I would investigate further.

 

At the end of the day, if it was an old 253 runner, I would just fire it up and hope for the best, if it was a motor I had rebuilt, I would at bare minimum re lube the valve train and cam where needed.

 

I hope this helps you make an informed choice.

Edited by TerrA LX, 21 August 2014 - 12:55 PM.

[TerrA LX]

Just on running in cams, all cam manufactures recommend it and will not warrant worn or broken cams if procedures are not followed, how important do I think running in a cam is?
Aside from a roller cam, breaking in is essential.

[N/A-PWR]

Great Information there Oldjohnno,

 

Never heard of that before, but is a good one to remember for future references.

 

 

I would do your method for an important motor.

 

 

 

Just a side note,

 

I have just started them up from sitting for years, and hope for the best and they survived. 

[warrenm]

I like the weed sprayer idea oldjohnno, I don't know why I didn't think of it before, I already use one as a pressure brake bleeder.

[ls2lxhatch]

The weed sprayers are also good for filling gearboxes and diffs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The are a couple of comerical oil priming kits available based on the weed sprayer and LPG bottle.

 

http://www.melling.c...e/Pre-Lube-Tank

 

 

http://motiveproduct...ters_p_157.html

 

There are also a few electrical or mechanical pump based kits.

 

Some of the electrical pump kits are designed so they can be plumbed in permanently so the engine can be primed before each start. 

https://www.mdrtunin...mp-priming-tool

 

 

This one is just an old oil pump mounted in a bucket.

http://www.carcraft....re_luber_build/

 

http://www.hotrod.co...p_1106_pit_stop

 

 

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 22 August 2014 - 11:45 AM.

[Collo]

I like the weed sprayer idea oldjohnno, I don't know why I didn't think of it before, I already use one as a pressure brake bleeder.

 

Slightly off topic, but I'm interested in this. Does it just push fluid in at the caliper and force the air out through the master, like reverse bleeding it, or am I way out?

Edited by slr_v8, 25 August 2014 - 03:01 AM.

[Oversteer]

What I've been using since the 90's 

 

http://www.ebay.com....e6582b77&_uhb=1

[warrenm]

Slightly off topic, but I'm interested in this. Does it just push fluid in at the caliper and force the air out through the master, like reverse bleeding it, or am I way out?

I use an old master cylinder top with a fitting in it then connect the sprayer to then pump it up, works well & I don't need two people to bleed brakes or clutch's.

[Collo]

Ahhh ok, so your basically force feeding it from the top end. Thanks for that, I might have to rig something up.

[RallyRed]

Interesting thread.
Some good info from the gurus too.

Does beg the question....for cars that sit in garages, storage, displays etc for years, with normal, usedengines in place......How long till we imagine that the oil has trickled out of the pump and or filter?
and if so, how do they ever reprime themselves?

or have I balls'd this up? are the filter non return valves a perfect seal?

Ta