121 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

Thank you gents.

So that's not the issue.
Seems my drums are pretty close to standard Just under 229mm.

Could it be not having the engine running and no booster effect?

Clutching at straws here.

Hope to fire up engine today for first start. If that goes to plan I'll try rear brakes with engine going.

Marty

[S pack]

Having the engine running will improve the braking capacity however from my own experience when the rear brakes are applied without vacuum assistance they should lock sufficiently to prevent turning the wheel by hand.

 

I suppose the first thing to do is ensure you have the rear brakes adjusted correctly and move forward from there.

[sibhs]

So I've had another friend check the brakes and rebleed.
We both think master cylinder problem.
Off with the mc and take it brake shop for checking.
He strips it and says I've damaged a piston when assembling. Could only be when pushing pistons in and fitting little bolt in reservoir. Piston needs machining to fix.
Reassembled and tested all good he says.
Now the good bit, another $200. FFS
So pissed off with myself but that's the price you pay for having a go and learning this shit.
This mc has cost
$100 rusty old second hand.
$230 for piston kit and big nut
$200 for fixing my F Up
$10 to zinc top
Plus my time to strip it, paint it.
So getting up to a $600 unit.

I also asked him to fit a smaller one of these nuts cause mine looked too long compared with the rear one. Now I've got a silver one and a gold one. Wasn't happy.
Here's a pic of the new one and an old one correct size. But want in gold. No one vas them. Aaaaarrrrhhh


Might have to put it all together and source correct bits.

[wot179]

That flare looks only half done.

[Dave6179]

Yeh, better hope its for 'instructional purposes' only! My double flare kit does that half way through the process.

[wot179]

Mine too.

[S pack]

Agree that double flare is only half done.

Marty you will have to send a nut off to be done with the yellow coating that's applied over the zinc plating to give it the 'gold zinc' finish. 

[sibhs]

I questioned the guy about flare and he said it was double flared. But I agree doesn't look right.

[sibhs]

Just been to another brake shop and they say it's ok too. Just a different looking double flare.

[kiwi-lilj]

I was taught to not over do the double flare. This was so it still had a bit of spring left in it which helped with the sealing.

[S pack]

Appears that the one on the left is referred to as a BUBBLE flare and is applicable to VR Commodore onwards m/cyl's.

 

 

[sibhs]

You adjusted the rear drums right?

Yes.

All bolted up, just need a hand with bleeding.
Any of you guys free to help? :-)

Marty

[S pack]

Yes.

All bolted up, just need a hand with bleeding.
Any of you guys free to help? :-)

Marty

Yeah I'm free Marty but you'll have to pay for the air fare.

[dattoman]

That flare is a little shallow but will crush up when you do it up

If you thought about it earlier you could have had the nuts both plated by Aeroplate next door to PBP in gold cadmium... might look a bit better

 

If the bottom piston isn't pushed down when the screw is put in you push the piston thru the stop screw and damage the piston usually break the screw

[EunUCh]

could be an optical delusion but even the new flare nut looks bigger in diameter as well as length?

sorry to question the brake people but that new flare is wrong...wrong radius...wrong flare depth..it may well work but i wouldn't use it.

[sibhs]

After bleeding, did you adjust the shoes to give you a bit of resistance on the drum when spun by hand?

Shoes are rubbing and at maximum adjustment. Handbrake locks them up.
Let's wait and see how it goes after the fix up. Just need a pedal pusher.
Neil, I pushed piston down before fitting screw as manual said but it's not not clear how far you push it in. That's where I reckon it went wrong.

[dattoman]

The "floating piston stop bolt" is the screw

It needs to sit between the seals in the middle of the bottom piston assy (which they call the floating piston in this pic)

So the piston needs pushing down against the spring far enough to allow this

Or the piston runs over the screw as you found out

 

The manual is abit vague as you say

[sibhs]

Just finished bleeding, no difference.  oooooohhh oooohh    ooohhhohohhhh,,,, thats the sound of me crying.

 

OK Tears wiped away.

 

Did this test, drums off, push pedal slowly, nothing, not until heaps of pressure does the slave cylinder pistons move.

 

Decide to pump the pedal this time and push hard, after a few pumps the cylinder pushes out 15mm, forward piston only.

 

Tried bleeding without drum on, fluid comes out, lock the bleeder, then pump, no piston movement.  

 

Really weird.

This is a double conundrum. 

My brakes are stopping me from driving,  My brakes aren't stopping me.

 

Any other ideas?

 

There must be a test I can try.

 

Brake guy said both ports pushing plenty of pressure.

 

Marty

[sibhs]

What if rear slave bleed nipple when fully closed actually stopped fluid flow?  Open and fluid flows?

Just trying to get my head around it.

 

No that doesn't make sense cause fluid doesn't come in through the nipple.

Edited by sibhs, 15 November 2014 - 07:30 PM.

[S pack]

Marty, when you bleed the rear wheel cylinders does the fluid flow freely from the nipple or is it sluggish?

[sibhs]

Freely.

[Dave6179]

Does fluid drain by itself when you crack the nipple? Gravity will take over.. slowly. Do you have the end of the bleed hose in fluid to prevent air being sucked back in?

No crimps in the steel line anywhere?

Don't ya hate it when something tries to beat you???