38 replies to this topic

[rodomo]

I'd like to see a pic to refresh my memory but..............................

 

From memory, they are "peened" in with 3 or 4 stake marks around the edges.

 

Make up a scraper (old busted screw driver ground up?) and scrape out the stake marks holding the valve in until the valve is loose in the body.

Replace the valves.

 

Make up a punch similar to the shape of the original stake marks and with a circular motion, tap the punch on new material eg. don't try to re-punch the old marks, keep tapping in a circular motion until your happy that the valves are secure AND square to the body.

 

If you punch one side down hard to start with, it will cock the valve and with consequent punches it could destroy the valve.

 

Good luck!

[jd lj]

I finally got around to fitting my rebuilt pump yesterday.
I didn't end up replacing the valves because after testing the existing ones they were in good working order. Previously I had trialled removing them from an old pump body, one is easy to remove as you can tap it out from above after moving the peened tabs. However ever the other had the tabs removed and then I had to carefully drill it out and dig out the remnants.
Not a fun job, but it can be done if necessary.

Once fitted the pump works very well, however it's seems to be leaking oil from the vent on the side.
This will mean that either the oil seal has come off it's mounting flange or its simply not sealing where the diaphragm shaft goes through. It looks like I'll have to take it back off to find out.

The rebuild kit came with 1 glass bowl gasket which didn't fit. I contacted the supplier who said it should have had 2, so he promptly sent another which also didn't fit. I have contacted him again and he's looking into it. The timing was bad though as this happened just before Christmas, so that will slow down resolving the issue.

I was able to modify one of the gaskets supplied to make it fit.

Fingers crossed I'll get these issues sorted shortly.

JD

[sibhs]

Hi James,

I've just realised my pump is leaking/spitting oil so I have to dismantle it too find fault.

This pump was bought second hand and told it had been rekitted and it does look like new gaskets and diaphragm etc but something not right.

 

Marty

[sibhs]

Just had a look at some spare pumps and the breather hole faces the rear of engine and my leak/splatter is forward of the pump. Mine might be a different issue?

 

Marty

[jd lj]

It could be leaking from where the fulcrum pin goes through the body, there's meant to be a small welsh plug each side of the pump holding the pin and I guess retaining the oil.

[LJGTR6]

^^

Yep. I had that exact problem with 2 of mine. Same with my mate with the HZ in my project thread.

At first i thought it was my engine rattling them out but his 202 is stock.

 

This is what i did to fix it.

 

http://www.gmh-toran...ps-falling-out/

 

[jd lj]

Does anyone know where to get 1/4" welsh plugs for where the pins go through the pump body, I did a google search to no avail.

 

Why doesn't anyone seem to make just the oil seals for these pumps, as that seems to be the main part that needs to be replaced.

 

I wonder how many requests for these rebuild kits AC DELCO or GOSS would need to start producing them, so many of us are trying to keep our cars original that I'm sure reproducing them would be worthwhile.

I've got another 3 pumps waiting to be rebuilt (as spares) myself.

 

Apparently the pump body is meant to be coated with gold dichromate which Extreme Fuel Systems will do for $65.

[sibhs]

Going to have a go at removing these valves and fitting the new ones.

 

Anyone know what that clamp and two screws are for?   Are they for holding in new valves, which means drilling holes in pump. Or for another model?

 

Cheers

 

Marty

 

 photo 2.jpg   113.26K   7 downloads

 

 photo 1.jpg   148.09K   7 downloads

[S pack]

Clamp & screws are for retention of valves in Holden Grey engine AC fuel pumps.

[N/A-PWR]

E85 proof Glass bowl kits:-

 

http://classiccarbs....let-900.199FPK-

 

 

this is what I need.

cheap too, get a secondhand pump for 30 bucks, bingo. 

[N/A-PWR]

^ those kits are still available.

 

 As mentioned,

 

 we need the two little welsh plugs for the pivot pin.

[claysummers]

Bump

[claysummers]

Rebuilding my AC fuel pump which appears to be off a later grey motor, as it has the clamp holding the non return valves. Otherwise pretty much same as the red motor glass bowl version.

Anyone replaced the oil seal, spring and diaphragm and can provide some insight? I am having great difficulty hooking the diaphragm rod to the hook on the end of the lever. EK workshop manual says to hold up the lever with a screwdriver but I don’t see how that is possible. Getting the oil seal to remain correctly seated is another challenge.

Possibly this would be easier if I remove the pivot pin however no replacement pin or Welch plugs were included in the rather expensive kit. I have heard of using glass tube fuse ends in emergency situations, as well as an acacia twig for the pivot pin, true bush mechanic ethos but not ideal.


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[claysummers]

Pushed out the pin in the end. It was then obviously impossible to fit the new diaphragm without doing so. Rather annoying that the expensive kit doesn’t contain new plugs. The pin was unworn, but the manual says not to reuse the plugs. I peeled them out and refitted with gasket goo for good measure.

Was pointed out to me I could buy a brand new pump cheaper than the kit at sparesbox. It is the later blue motor style with a pressed lever. Probably works fine.


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