1 votes
_livo74_
Posted 23 February 2017 - 07:48 PM
and now my lack of knowledge regarding engines is coming to the fore.
i just bought a second hand manifold to get the egr off it.
seems to have a few pollution? bit and pieces i may also need. ??, um, ??
(any thoughts would be appreciated)
edit: manifold on my car is a 2 barrel,
told new manifold is off a 308
Edited by livo74, 23 February 2017 - 07:56 PM.
_livo74_
Posted 23 February 2017 - 08:18 PM
i think... next step is to buy all of these ??
Oh My, Don't you post alot
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Posted 24 February 2017 - 04:05 PM
I think the fuel line will be 3/8 and the vacuum hoses 1/4. The rest of it is a lot more complicated than LH, but you can definitely plug the right front where the four plastic ports are. There are some good pics here... http://www.gmh-toran...v8-post-adr-27/
_livo74_
Posted 24 February 2017 - 07:07 PM
cheers laurie on info and link
heater hoses easy part, compared to the carby/vacuum hoses mess.
as my engine is from a vc? ..i think, i have to replicate that, and not the easier lh as you mentioned.
am doing searches for pics of engines to copy.
one running a 350 holley with the air filter off, goodness willing
Socially Distant
Posted 25 February 2017 - 12:30 AM
Seriously Mat, I wouldn't bother with the later model pollution crap, you're far more likely to be knocked-back for the Holley. I doubt anyone will even care that the engine came from a Commodore.
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 25 February 2017 - 03:47 AM
Yeah that 4bbl manifold is off commodore...extra pollution crap/cold start.
Really just need charcoal cannister hooked up & as long as it looks neat should be fine...if fussy fit pcv & factory snorkel aircleaner.
Torries are old now most don't even know what's meant to be fitted to them
As above more likely to knock you back for holley or aftermarket seats if they're strict.
Edited by gtrboyy, 25 February 2017 - 03:49 AM.
_livo74_
Posted 25 February 2017 - 09:16 AM
cheers andrew and gtr,
makes things easier.. as have been searching for pics of vacuum/fuel lines setups (with air cleaner off, for ease of viewing)
and most seen have been of simpler setups, and nothing that was like mine.
(4 tubes off just the one plastic piece! ha! )
will just make clean and neat, and as simple as possible.
will do pcv, and i have a cannister, just gotta find a mount.
Socially Distant
Posted 25 February 2017 - 12:13 PM
Well there's one area where Toyota is better than Holden...
This is (apparently) the Emissions sticker from under the bonnet of a 4.2L VC / VH Commodore (courtesy of Rare Spares):
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But the reason I went looking for this is that I was thinking of the Toyota Emissions stickers, which have a full vacuum hose diagram on them... oh well
_livo74_
Posted 25 February 2017 - 07:09 PM
bloody holden.. that would of been SWEET
_livo74_
Posted 25 February 2017 - 07:12 PM
i think i have to admit defeat on this one (like i will with the brake/booster/lines, and getting the windows/mechs back in, and the...)
and pay a mech to put it together.
i dont know what i am doing. clearly.
_livo74_
Posted 25 February 2017 - 07:34 PM
from my manual
but never mind, is all sorted.
if i just attach the battery, surely it will fire up nicely running a smooth idle.
_76lxJAS_
Posted 25 February 2017 - 08:00 PM
Edited by 76lxJAS, 25 February 2017 - 08:00 PM.
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 25 February 2017 - 08:35 PM
As long as no vacuum leaks should run fine.Don't be afraid to have a go it's how you learn.
Just do one thing at a time less confusing.
Fuel line to pump
heater bypass hose
nipple looking thing in front of carb can go dissy vacuum advance
rear vacuum metal tree behind carb- large hose to brake booster
-weird smaller piece on top is modulator on trimatic(long pipe side of auto runs to rear)
Pcv valce in rocker cover goes to fitting under air cleaner base
Most people use big bolts from pirtek for the either side of that temp sender,far left looks like air con fan switch.
That looks like pre-pollution setup
Edited by gtrboyy, 25 February 2017 - 08:36 PM.
_livo74_
Posted 25 February 2017 - 10:14 PM
am trying jas, and have researched heaps but can't get my head around it. a chook without a head so far.
am towards phillip island, so not exactly local for a quick drop in for anyone,
and
know these things go from "should be a quick job" to a 4 hr hassle/wrong parts/missing this etc and i don't want to do that to anyone trying to just give a hand.
_________
and gtr... see! i'm already not doing great..
it's supposed to look like a post poll setup!
thanks for your info thou. got me a step or three further you have.
"nipple looking thing in front of carb can go dissy vacuum advance"
i don't know jack shit, but with your wording i think i know what to do there now.
and only because i see the dizzy has only 1 pipe off it, so i gather now that that is the "vacuum advance!"
(not that that is the dizzy am using, was given "special"?? dizzy to use. have forgot it's name)
same now with the
"rear vacuum metal tree behind carb- large hose to brake booster"
i can do that !
"Pcv valve in rocker cover goes to air cleaner base."
boo! as said, have been trying to reasearch/learn.
was about to attach to back of holley, going by my searches of what to do
"Most people use big bolts from pirtek for the either side of that temp sender,far left looks like air con fan switch."
that.. i don't know a word of what you were talking about./referring to
darn it
------------
did work out today i have to fabricate a mount for throttle cable, as is in reverse on a holley.
(someone said "can just undo and reverse the mech on the carby" but i wont be achieving that in a hurry/successfully.)
_livo74_
Posted 25 February 2017 - 10:39 PM
maybe if i knew the names of some othese things i'd be able to get a grasp
any help would be appreciated!
1=
2=
3=
4=
5=
6=egr valve
7= dizzy vacuum advance (?)
8= goes to disc brakes (on booster i gather)
9= joins to pipe leading to auto trans
10= "fuel economy"?? is that a pipe that i can't see in image?
To advertise here, call 13TORANA
Posted 25 February 2017 - 10:47 PM
Fuel economy is probably the economy gauge on a commodore dash
Edited by rodomo, 25 February 2017 - 10:48 PM.
_livo74_
Posted 25 February 2017 - 10:52 PM
cheers rob, image is from the lx resto manual though. as shown above. (shows about 10 variations of that "tree, just to be confusing)
and my tree only has 3 ports coming off it, (and not a 4th, i think. well the tree i am using anyways.. the metal one on car as bought)
Edited by livo74, 25 February 2017 - 10:56 PM.
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 26 February 2017 - 12:26 AM
1-temperature switch for air con fan
2-water temperature sender(green wire to dash)
3- cold start vacuum switch for commodore pollution crap (not needed)
4-vacuum nozzle (hook hose from there to no.7 distributor vacuum advance)
5-heat riser pipes(pollution gear suits original carby only) block them off
6-egr valve (usually hose off no.3) messy commodore pollution crap..prefer blank plate you got.
7- Distributor vacuum advance
8- Brake Booster
9- should also have long thin pipe from that piece all way down to back of auto(helps shifting gears etc)
10- commodore dash has vacuum/economy gauge (not needed)
Oil sender is chunky thing down lower right side (blue wire to dash)
Hose on water pump with bolt & clamp on end goes to thermostat housing in front of it
^^^ That's enough to keep you in trouble for a while.Use the original metal tree piece for brake booster etc as plastic tree version tend to break.
Still got any of old wiring harness?
Edited by gtrboyy, 26 February 2017 - 12:35 AM.
_76lxJAS_
Posted 26 February 2017 - 12:28 AM
Socially Distant
Posted 26 February 2017 - 12:34 AM
Okay basics first, and you missed labeling a couple of things too...
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In this image, connect the two fittings circled in blue, so from the right-angled fitting that comes out of the Holley metering block, to the vacuum advance on the dizzy (7).
The two water outlets circled in orange need to be connected together, this is the thermostat bypass circuit.
The other two water outlets circled in red go to your heater core (inside the dash), the top one from the thermostat housing goes to the top pipe on the heater core, the bottom pipe on the heater core returns to the second fitting on the water pump (I assume there is a second fitting, it's hard to see).
Hopefully there is another large vacuum fitting under the front of the carb too, where the purple arrow is pointing? You can connect this to the charcoal canister. Assuming your charcoal canister only has two fittings, the second one will connect to the (steel) hard-line that runs back to the fuel tank (vent). If your canister is the later type with three fittings then I suggest trying to find an earlier one with only two (the third fitting was a float bowl vent on later carbies but yours has no provision for that).
Brake booster (8) and auto trans modulator (9) you already have sorted.
(1) and (3) are thermal valves (they open and close vacuum ports based on coolant temp), for now you can leave them completely disconnected but I would be trying to find some blanking "bungs" to replace them with and removing them altogether, nobody will miss them on a Torana.
(2) is your temp sender and should be connected to the wiring harness (it's a green wire from memory).
(4), (10) & "air cond" can all be blocked-off for now (I suggest a short piece of vacuum hose with a small bolt jammed in one end rather than using insulation tape, or (10) & "air cond" can simply be joined together).
(5) and (6) can be left disconnected for now.
That should be enough for initial startup, there's still a few things to address later but one thing at a time!
Socially Distant
Posted 26 February 2017 - 12:40 AM
DOH! Too slow typing again, what are the chances there would be two replies before mine two hours after the last post?!
4-vacuum nozzle (hook hose from there to no.7 distributor vacuum advance)
No, you don't want full-time vacuum to the vacuum advance, that would mean it's permanently advanced except under WOT?
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 26 February 2017 - 01:50 AM
Original way is no vac advance cold was purely for pollution...less timing,crappier idle & response untill engine warmed up then temp controlled vacuum switch bs allowed vacuum through...horrible set up.
Besides if holley carb has vac port below throttle shafts essentially same thing as that manifold fitting....
Cant tell from his pics what that 350 holley has tbh
Direct makes them tad more responsive..it's likely low comp 253 so wont hurt it..just set timing tad different with hose blocked & make sure modulator line is separate..
Keen to see it get next stage where wire it up to start...cinge some eyebrows off
Edited by gtrboyy, 26 February 2017 - 01:54 AM.
Oh My, Don't you post alot
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Posted 26 February 2017 - 09:09 AM
Fuel economy is probably the economy gauge on a commodore dash
Available as an option on Torana. (Was a light, not a gauge)
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_livo74_
Posted 26 February 2017 - 09:22 AM
first things first..
NOBODY else wants to be standing anywhere near this when i fire her up! hahaha
secondly,
thankyou SO much gtr
thankyou SO much jason
thankyou SO much andrew
and blanking "bungs", that i can do! hahaha,
(i think!?, number 1.. seems to be welded on! ?????)
will persist. 
_________
i dont have wiring harness at all, have top buy one from ebay
_livo74_
Posted 26 February 2017 - 09:26 AM
(beat me to posting you did)
don't make things MORE difficult, laurie! 
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