1102 replies to this topic

[Bigfella237]

Thanks Laurie, I must've been thinking of something else?

[gtrboyy]

Keep plodding along dude...just do freebie or cheap things.

 

Helps to put up Wanted To Buy ads...get parts cheaper that way especially stuff most people usually throw out.

 

Know what you mean...my car budget is $0 just got bills from letterbox lol

[gtrboyy]

Should be 2 pipes along chassis rail...short one near fuel pump & longer one 'tank' nozzle on cannister

 

2nd pic is brake pedal...rod etc should be attached to brake booster then pin slots through that hole to secure it.

 

1st pic is accelerator pedal...might be able to adapt commodore cable if cant get torana one or try what you have...ask peeps here for correct length.

 

 

Trimatic modulator pipe is name looking for..see if can get 6cy version for free or $5 then mod it to fit your engine also check if still have transmission fluid lines.

 

Those are sort of parts most people throw out lol

[Bigfella237]

If I were to hazard a guess I'd say that water pump / timing cover bolt was removed because the fan belt tensioner was attached to it?

 

You can't really trim those bungs, they are likely a tapered thread so cutting them off won't change how far they screw in, it would just mean they aren't held by so many threads?

 

Each one of those ports on the charcoal canister should be labelled (with labels moulded into the plastic), one will likely say "tank", another "carb", and I can't remember the other, something to do with the vacuum supply? The one labelled "tank" will connect to the steel hardline you're holding above, it normally just has a short right-angled hose on it. You can just blank-off the "carb" one (on later models it went to the float bowl vent on the carby). The vacuum one just needs to connect to anywhere that has vacuum on the inlet manifold so no need to buy another carby. The idea is that any fuel vapours from the tank will be absorbed by the charcoal, then sucked into the engine and burnt next time it's started.

 

That brake booster you have is from a late LX ('77 on) or UC with the solid bent shaft, hopefully the brake pedal you have came from the same otherwise the pin won't line up?

[Bigfella237]

 

No I'm wrong again, looks like the fan belt tensioner goes on a lower bolt.

[Shiney005]

If you are fitting the Holden power steering, (or if the motor was going in a Commodore), the alternator then goes to the other side.

 a.jpg   164.7K   3 downloads

 

[gtrboyy]

Nah man early commo have alternators on drivers side..2 brackets non-air con alloy & much larger metal air con/alternator bracket.

 

Kingswoods & slightly different efi v8 have them on passenger.

 

No tensioners,you leaver alternator to belt tenssion you want then tighten bolt on lower bar thing.

 

All good anyway as spotted lh torry kit in one of his pics..carry on son!!!!

 

 

Another tip if already got alternator check it's 55amp if not source 85 amp vn-s v8 bosch (10 times better)

[Bigfella237]

No tensioners,you leaver alternator to belt tenssion you want then tighten bolt on lower bar thing.

 

That "lower bar thing" is what I'm calling a tensioner, it holds the tension on the belt so I call it a tensioner, I guess if you want to be technical, the parts catalog calls it a "BRACE - Generator"

[Bigfella237]

Regarding the vacuum advance, there are two schools of thought apparently, the old school method is to run the vacuum advance straight off the manifold, but for this to work you really need an adjustable vac advance unit (which you don't have), the newer (pollution control) method is to connect it to the port on the carby.

 

The old school method gives you full advance at idle, the carby port gives you no additional advance at idle. The argument is that retarding the timing at idle helps burn exhaust gases better, or something like that, performance-wise it (apparently) makes bugger all difference.

 

The "CARB" port on the charcoal canister should be blocked off, the "TANK" port connects to the steel line running back to the tank, the third port (whatever it's called) needs a vacuum supply off the manifold.

 

It doesn't really matter where you connect it (I'd probably try to find a bigger fitting for your (4) port since that's not used for anything else), the only thing is that the vacuum source for the brake booster isn't supposed to be shared with anything else that draws vacuum, although the transmission modulator and vacuum gauge lines etc. won't really matter since they're closed circuits, but you don't want to share the brake booster fitting with the canister since the canister will leech off some of the vacuum.

[Shiney005]

Nah man early commo have alternators on drivers side..2 brackets non-air con alloy & much larger metal air con/alternator bracket.

Darn it. Was thinking about my VN.

[Bigfella237]

That's half my trouble Laurie, too many different bloody models to remember what's what!

[Shiney005]

Original Utilux heater hose clamps. Nice.

[EunUCh]

Your vac. advance should work fine being connected to the take off on the carb. , it is ported within the carb. and only works at part

throttle opening when like just feathering the plates at cruise speed to pull in max advance on light loads.(also was supposed to help cover up a transition from idle to intermediate but that's another story , as long as it works).

 

You can block off #4 take off in the 1 & 4 runners.

 

In the 6 & 7 runners you can  block off the take offs not needed but keep the biggest one for line to brake booster , the other

small one goes to vac. mod. on trans.(or just fit a fitting with only the  2 take offs needed?).

 

Had a look at a couple of canisters , block off CARB. , TANK  as already stated goes to the wiggly steel tube that finds its way up there from the tank , the PURGE line might work directly to full vac. , only one way to find out ? , pretty sure it too was ported on carb. but could be wrong.