1102 replies to this topic

[Bigfella237]

~ looks like once the "lower" bit that is broken is taken off the dizzy it might reveal that the dizzy will take a standard cap and rotor ? ~

 

Yep they will, the bottom half even clips on with the same standard clips that secure a 'normal' cap.

 

As mentioned earlier, I'm pretty sure those bigger two-piece caps hit the firewall in a Torrie? And I think there was a smaller ford high energy cap (with the male terminals) that fits, just can't remember the specifics?

 

15 - AIR CON

 

wasn't planning to worry about till far later date! have enough on plate, maybe

 

 

 

I forgot to mention that air con setup, yeah I can see about a dozen things that are missing straight away so a lot of work involved in getting that up 'n running!

 

Probably best to leave that in the shed for now?

[grumpy xu1]

& 4 is the modulator by memory, haven't seen a trimatic up close for a long time.

[lemonaro]

1. Trans oil line to radiator/cooler

2. Kickdown switch

3.Trans oil line return from radiator/cooler

4. Vacuum modulator

5. Reverse switch

6. Selector shaft.

 

 Good luck!

[EunUCh]

looks like someone has slipped a slip yoke up the rear ext. housing minus the tail shaft ...always a good idea to block off areas that could

let moisture/dust etc. into the trans.

 

Going on the picture  ...# 2 will be what they call the " high speed kick down"....this was a solenoid that was activated either by a switch on the throttle lever on the carb. , ...or in the case of LX auto  (as far as i know?) was activated by a switch on the go pedal ? , it only works when you stomp on it given a certain speed was sensed in conjunction with what the vac. modulator/governor  was doing in regards to road speed to kick back a gear given preset  conditions in trans. ?

 

#4 is the vac. modulator , it has a  place where a tube is fitted from full vac. from the intake manifold.

# 5 looks like it might be a switch to turn the reverse indicators on when needed.

 

336 rear ratio should be ok on those specs. ..never really checked it out but even in the wet with 205/60 14 yoky 509's  with lsd it was still a little hard to stomp it and get things going without a bit of a roll and then tweak things in the front end to make the back end make it do. 

[Bigfella237]

Yes you can just slip that yoke out but be prepared for a trans fluid shower if it still has oil in it.

 

BTW, that's a V8 slip yoke, notice how much wider the uni joint is than the 6 cylinder tailshaft you pictured earlier?

 

Also, it's bloody hard to see from this photo...

 

 IMG_1208a.jpg   222.01K   3 downloads

 

...but I think I can see the bolt and tab thingy holding in the cutoff end of an old speedo cable (which would explain why you can't find the hole)?

 

Also, your throttle pedal should have one of these sliding kickdown switches on it...

 

 

...if not you may have to try and find a pedal from an auto Torana?

 

Don't ask me whether your manual wiring loom would have the required connectors though?

[grumpy xu1]

You won't have to yank it mate, just pull on it. Put a bit of rubber grease on the slip yoke where it goes into the seal when you fit the tail shaft & don't force it in. In the middle of the vacuum modulator you should see a little pipe coming out of it & that's what you put the vacuum line from the tee onto. External switches, solenoids & the modulator i would personally replace as you assemble the car. Quite often they're pretty ordinary from the conditions, Gary.

[Bigfella237]

The 6 cylinder tailshaft will physically connect to both the transmission and the diff you have, but it will likely be too short (I think it's that way around)?

 

If you find a V8 tailshaft, it will also fit the transmission and it will be the correct length, but it won't fit the 6 cylinder diff yoke.

[gtrboyy]

Bypass fuel tank,just use your lawnmower jerry can with hose in it...save yourself the headache.

 

Add banjo 6cyl tailshaft u bolts to WTB ad

 

Use wd40 & fine wed/dry sandpaper give slip yoke a good linish...leave that chopped yoke in there,keep auto sealed.

Use that tailshaft,be fine for normal usage.

 

Green arrow is speedo hole,probably still bolted in & they cut cable...unbolt...clean yours up & bolt it up,make sure write down gear colours.

 

Looks like lemonaro labelled correctly.

 

Should be nozzle in middle of modulator hose will slip onto.

 

Flip starter on end as in nose up take pic so can see what starter bolts needed...early ones take 1 short 1 long later have 2 even length bolts

 

Think you need to pick a section say engine or auto then 1 or 2 tasks of each as listings 20 tasks/items at once will do your head in...

Edited by gtrboyy, 04 March 2017 - 11:36 PM.

[Rockoz]

Had a quick read throught the last 2 pages.

 

If it hasnt been mentioned, get your fuel line off your top radiator hose.

It will likely cause you fuel vaporisation problems.

Also increased temp in the fuel will decrease performance somewhat.

[Cook]

Mat,  reading this thread with a lot of interest as I have less knowledge than you and to me, you are asking all the right questions (at least to help me as well).

 

I have an accelerator pedal kickdown switch somewhere and also a tailshaft out of my LX Torana which was with a 253 so may suit.  I'm happy for you to have them but I won't be in a position to look for them for a couple of weeks, if that suits. BTW I am just going through all the vac line routing issues with a WW Stromberg in a WB ute with 253. Cheers Ron

[Bigfella237]

should i take a spanner to my selector and put in neautral/park etc ..if dont get selector rod and plate before firing up engine?

or doesnt it mater as not connected to diff as yet?

 

Just a quick one, when you find the "Park" position it will lock the slip yoke (in other words stop the tailshaft from turning), in any other selector position you will be able to turn the yoke.

 

And yes, it would be a good idea to select "Park" before starting the engine, just so that slip yoke doesn't spin (and possibly fling itself out of the trans).

Edited by Bigfella237, 05 March 2017 - 09:49 AM.

[Bigfella237]

Yeah I figured that would be the case, a 6 cylinder engine is longer than a V8 and so sits further back, therefore has a shorter tailshaft.

 

You'll probably find the gearshift selector rod is the same (a V8 rod will be longer than a 6).

 

I would definitely hold-off buying those 6 cylinder uni-joints and U-bolts too until you know which way you're going with the tailshaft, if you end up using a V8 tailshaft you'll have to change the diff yoke to a V8 type and the 6 cylinder uni and U-bolts will be useless to you.

[Cook]

Mat I have just fired up my 253 after fitting it into WB (been sitting around for 3 years) and I did it before fitting the tailshaft so I didn't have to worry about it taking off.  Cheers Ron

[Bigfella237]

You will need an inspection cover fitted to your bellhousing too for rego...

 

 

...which needs to be fitted before the starter motor (and is much easier to fit before the extractors too).

 

BTW, is the torque converter actually bolted to the flex plate? It looks like it's not sitting all the way forward?