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Project SLR5000 replica / LX Torana Sedan 77


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#426 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 10:30 AM

knew about needing cover, didn't think through better before starter and extractors

(just wanted to put on starter for engine work/testing)

 

torque converter/flex plate.. will take your word on it and post a few better pics! had no idea.

surprised..? ;)



#427 Bigfella237

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 10:30 AM

No, V8 Torana will be the perfect length! :D



#428 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 10:31 AM

Mat I have just fired up my 253 after fitting it into WB (been sitting around for 3 years) and I did it before fitting the tailshaft so I didn't have to worry about it taking off.  Cheers Ron

cheers ron, but i don't understand, take what off?



 a v8 torana... no way!

 

haha! doh!

 

(guess i was hoping the splines and rear uni would fit, and could just bolt/slip on with no mods)


Edited by livo74, 05 March 2017 - 10:32 AM.


#429 Cook

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 10:39 AM

Mat, I was referring to the car taking off if it was accidentally in gear or slipped into gear.  Refer my earlier post which you may have missed.  I have a pedal kickdown switch and tailshaft that may suit but can't get to then for a couple of weeks if that suits.  Cheers Ron



#430 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 10:46 AM

ah, gotcha, ron!

apologies, i have re-read a number of times and realized i missed MANY posts/forgot to discuss things here and there.

sad but true. 

 

and a pedal kickdown and tailshaft would be freakin sweet,

buzz me WHENEVER you are able to get to them PLEASE 



#431 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 12:56 PM

Mat,  reading this thread with a lot of interest as I have less knowledge than you and to me, you are asking all the right questions (at least to help me as well).

 

I have an accelerator pedal kickdown switch somewhere and also a tailshaft out of my LX Torana which was with a 253 so may suit.  I'm happy for you to have them but I won't be in a position to look for them for a couple of weeks, if that suits. BTW I am just going through all the vac line routing issues with a WW Stromberg in a WB ute with 253. Cheers Ron

note: did miss your post ron,

would of been all over this had i noticed!

"..all the right questions" ! hahaha

 

and

now i don't know much about cars... ;)  ...

but am hoping your stromberg is factory, unlike my silly choice to go holley. 


Edited by livo74, 05 March 2017 - 12:59 PM.


#432 Cook

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 01:09 PM

Cheers,

 

I be in touch in about 2 weeks time, when I will be able to get at it.  Only good thing with the Stromberg is I seem to have more Vac ports than you, but not sure if that is good or bad.  LOL.  Have fun in the meantime.  Ron



#433 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 01:16 PM

FUN..!!? 

hahaha

 

whenever buzz is tops k



#434 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 01:25 PM

latest endeavors 

IMG_1250.jpg

 so.. the vac mod to auto tee  on manifold plugs into here? 

how does it stay on? (doesn't seem long enough to attach any clip/clamp)

 

 

and, andrew,

it's....  green!    green??? 

IMG_1255.jpg

 

 

added info, the old cable one was... white

IMG_1256.jpg

 

what's green and my red in the kph matchup..?

or..

any chance the green internal to white cable.. is the "hundred k's/spot on" matchup??

(as the tops just pop off and can change. well, mine do at least)


Edited by livo74, 05 March 2017 - 01:29 PM.


#435 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 01:31 PM

and here is flex and converter (i think)

IMG_1264.jpg

 

IMG_1266.jpg

 

bolts missing??



#436 Bigfella237

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 01:52 PM

Disregard my concern over the torque converter bolts, I can see at least one nut and bolt is done up (and there's only 3 of them) so assume the other two will be done up as well.

 

Hmm... a green drive gear, well that's different! I've never seen any mention of a green drive gear for the Aussie boxes before, the only ones I have listed are:

 

Red - 7 tooth

White - 8 tooth

Blue - 9 tooth

Yellow - 10 tooth

 

The only green one I have listed is a 9 tooth gear for the American boxes (Muncie / Saginaw / Powerglide / TH350), I wonder if they fit and somebody has been playing with it?

 

Can you see in there well enough to turn the slip yoke by hand and count the number of teeth? You're counting the number of new teeth that start on one edge, you will need to mark one of the teeth with a texta or similar so you know where you started from.

 

If it is a 9 tooth drive gear, use your red driven (cable) gear, that should be close enough (works out to a reading of 103 when you're actually doing 100).



#437 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 02:15 PM

not a chance seeing in there sorry

camera jammed up into crevice to get that photo!

 

if am correct, going by the photo it's a ??6 tooth gear?

-----------

to get access to attach trans oil line.. i can put jack under yoke and remove crossmember and lower/drop trans a few inches can't i?

a good idea to install the missing engine mount bolts before i do? or not.

 

be hell getting to the return one without lowering, am suspecting.



#438 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 02:48 PM

hmm, didn't think that through..

6 that i can see anyways

will see if can make a video whilst turning yoke. bare with me

 

ebay says 21 tooth for the cable gear

IMG_1281.jpg

 

internal.. still haven't found

________

 

and must remember to CLEAN engine parts before asking for help to identify

too late now, but here are some clean shots anyways

 

IMG_1271.jpg

 

IMG_1275.jpg

 

IMG_1277.jpg

 

IMG_1280.jpg


Edited by livo74, 05 March 2017 - 03:02 PM.


#439 gtrboyy

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 03:32 PM

Clean that tailshaft,slip yoke in THEN pull back into diff...after that check seal groove worn in slip yoke lines up...main difference between 6cyl & 8 cyl is size of universals.

 

Those cups for rear uni will be ok as long as pins didn't fall out.

 

Green gear most likely commodore probably sle with 2.60 diff...will look it up if can remember where info is.

 

https://www.google.c...jJTTphx3JMnENew

 

Above link on right punch in tyre size,the drive/driven gears & diff ratio.

 

Yep looks like missing flex plat bolts too

Modulator hose has to be tight fit so no vacuum leaks


Edited by gtrboyy, 05 March 2017 - 03:34 PM.


#440 EunUCh

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 05:19 PM

The nipple on the vac. modulator does not need a clamp to hold the rubber tube on , see how it has a raised area where the tube

pushes on ! , that is what holds the tube on , originally there was just a short piece of tube that fitted on to the modulator , the plot thickens , it was then connected to a steel line that led up to the fitting on manifold and connected by another short rubber tube.

 

They say you shouldn't just run a rubber tube all the way up because under full vac. the story goes that the tube will "choke off' and affect gear changes, how true it is i don't know ?

 

The oil cooler fittings are a pain to get to , they too were originally steel but i can't see too much of a problem just running a half decent

rubber line that will handle a bit of temp. up to a cooler , it does not need to be high pressure.

 

 

 



#441 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 05:33 PM

Clean that tailshaft,slip yoke in THEN pull back into diff...after that check seal groove worn in slip yoke lines up...main difference between 6cyl & 8 cyl is size of universals.

 

Those cups for rear uni will be ok as long as pins didn't fall out.

 

Green gear most likely commodore probably sle with 2.60 diff...will look it up if can remember where info is.

 

https://www.google.c...jJTTphx3JMnENew

 

Above link on right punch in tyre size,the drive/driven gears & diff ratio.

 

Yep looks like missing flex plat bolts too

Modulator hose has to be tight fit so no vacuum leaks

howdy gtr,

noticed in ebay ad i linked that uni's seemed different/beefier in the 8 version

 

concern with my tailshaft is that it is a full 2 inch short of being long enough. it would slip in and then pull back to the diff,

but i fear the yoke would only be about 2 inches inside the trans, and not what seems about 4-5 needed. 

(because on a 6 cyl the trans was further back?, hence shorted shaft)

 

can test it, as i don't think the trans is full of fluid. (might be? will find out soon enough)..and check seal groove worn in slip yoke lines up as you say.

(will clean as you recommended first)

 

don't know jack about uni's so will post a pic and show damage

 

can't find internal speedo gear in link as yet

 

flex plate has one bolt in tight doesn't it?

(i did well if the photo actually even shows the flex plate! ha!)



#442 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 05:36 PM

The nipple on the vac. modulator does not need a clamp to hold the rubber tube on , see how it has a raised area where the tube

pushes on ! , that is what holds the tube on , originally there was just a short piece of tube that fitted on to the modulator , the plot thickens , it was then connected to a steel line that led up to the fitting on manifold and connected by another short rubber tube.

 

They say you shouldn't just run a rubber tube all the way up because under full vac. the story goes that the tube will "choke off' and affect gear changes, how true it is i don't know ?

 

The oil cooler fittings are a pain to get to , they too were originally steel but i can't see too much of a problem just running a half decent

rubber line that will handle a bit of temp. up to a cooler , it does not need to be high pressure.

howdy eunuch,

see what you mean about modulator tube,.. now that i cleaned it!

 

and get what you mean about vac hose, would have to have strong enough wall to not squeeze itself. will find out!

 

and, running decent rubber trans lines would be cheap and sweet as!

after the fun of getting them on ;)



#443 gtrboyy

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 05:55 PM

Eunuch it's missing fair amount of parts,likely vb 253 mixed with odd bunch of parts parts

 

Most trimatics have 3 bolts + nuts,high tensile things.

 

Hose to modulator apparently same size as vac advance on dissy but practically force the the on it's tight fit...will be ok temp fix,same as transmission hose looped around to bridge those cooler lines

 

TBH always used 6cyl shafts to get driving cars driving although been years vaguely remember majority parts interchange so should fit when bolted in

 

Yoke probably goes in further than you think dont forget with suspension travel & drive movement it slides further in.

 

Could be engine brackets/mounts bolted in wrongly....usually something simple like lift & reset...who knows yet.

 

Bit annoying at amount of simple little parts missing or just what previous owners did to it.

 

Think green gear is same 9 tooth as blue not much info found on them think green 253 sle trimatic(reason 15" rims) 308 sle(yellow gear) BUT not much info out there.



#444 gtrboyy

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 06:06 PM

Cant tell 100% untill clean up & bolt tailshaft in.

 

My guess is if green gear 9 tooth you'll need yellow 24 tooth gear with 3.36 diff & 245/60/14 tyre means 1% underdriven(slow) speedo

 

I'd say with quick guess  all bolt ons missing off auto from those pics

 

modulator pipe

flex plate bolts

trans cooler lines + new hose

crossmember bolts/mountr bolts + spacer

talishaft u-bolts



#445 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 06:30 PM

heya gtr, trying get info needed to make easier to judge, hope have :)

 

first, don't know about pins but the clip holding them on has broken and rusted

IMG_1294.jpg

 

cleaned up to test

IMG_1284.jpg

 

when pushed all way in..

rear comes up this short

IMG_1286.jpg

 

 and when pushed back to diff... as shown

IMG_1289.jpg

 

it looks like this

IMG_1290.jpg

 

again, with spare yoke for comparison

IMG_1291.jpg

 

so, about 2 inches in, and 3 inches out (when resting on ground)

 

--------------------

and here is engine mounts

IMG_1295.jpg

 

and trans

IMG_1296.jpg

 

 

____________

 

not great i gather :(



#446 EunUCh

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 07:12 PM

There is a fair amount of stuff that needs to be considered , firstly i would be cleaning everything up a bit so that things can be identified a bit easier :)

The slip yoke into the trans. as said needs some movement , can't remember off hand how much it moves when the diff. moves from one extreme to the other but it is not much (15mm max at a vague guess ?)

 

There should be 3 bolts with nuts that hold the converter to the flex plate (the toothed bit) , one is pictured but it would be wise to check that the others are there as well , they are not an ordinary bolt.

 

One thing that might be a little concerning is that the cooling lines were not plugged ?

 

A bit side tracked :) , if my ol mate will get out of the pub and talk sense i might be able to see what colour gear is in the trans. that is connected to the starfire that he will never use , don't bank on it , and the last time i checked the junk pile of autos for such thing there was a seven footer of  one of Skaps mates living there so that won't happen :)

 



#447 gtrboyy

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 07:28 PM

^^ Cleanliness makes life easier!!!

 

Once you pop them cups back onto tailshaft then slip it back into diff add u-bolts 'probably' will be right one...you'll know as there groove worn into yoke over time will be close.

 

Kinda think it's correct...not sure wtf that metal tab is usually just the u-bolts & diff yoke holds it all together.

 

From pics mounts looked close enough....just pop cups back on that universal joint & bolt it up,no bolts tape it together either will fall apart or land on ya head haha

 

Write up WTB checklist here see if some of the peeps can help you out

 

Also show us what parts you have left for car.


Edited by gtrboyy, 05 March 2017 - 07:33 PM.


#448 EunUCh

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 07:50 PM

I think the metal tab was only a "lock tab " that went under the nuts and was bent up over a flat on the nut that held the U bolts to the yolk to stop those dreaded little factory lock nuts coming off for safety reasons ?

 

Edit, i think you will find that the 6 cyl. universal j's will be fine on a 253 with 336 , there are 202's out there making more than a stock 253 and they don't seem to have too many problems ?


Edited by EunUCh, 05 March 2017 - 07:55 PM.


#449 _livo74_

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 08:21 PM

gotta admit, you guy's are braver than i !!!

first, if movement is only 15mm ish either way, that leaves about 3cm left in shaft..??

now, this car setup is never going to supped up.. but is that enough grab?

 

and second.. if it pulled back 2 inches... and say.. fell out..

i am going to go ass over tit and on a heck of an exciting adventure.

 

will ponder.

----------------------

 

will see if can get better look for the other 2 flex bolts

 

----------------

 

cooling lines not plugged..

 

don't  jinx me eunuch! 

(and yet, not optimum, for sure! blocked would of been better to see for sure.)

 

____________

re: ."just pop cups back on that universal joint"

and

 

"only a "lock tab " that went under the nuts and was bent up over a flat on the nut that held the U bolts to the yolk to stop those dreaded little factory lock nuts coming off for safety reasons ?"

 

i'll say safety! cus at the moment they just fall off! can't be right can it???

fear needs to be "pressed"?? out and replaced??

 

________

 

and will start putting a wtb list together, ( wanted to have some money before did)

 

--

 

as always, help and advice/thoughts much much appreciated fellas! 

i'm getting there, slowly!

---------



#450 gtrboyy

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 08:53 PM

Over-thinking & worrying this stuff too much,..at moment just trying to get all together & running...no where near drivable yet lol.

 

Get it together as best as possible THEN go over with fine tooth comb.

 

Not seen those tabs in [email protected] garage burnout usually blow diff to smithereens before drop shaft :rockon:






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