1 votes
Socially Distant
Posted 27 May 2017 - 10:06 AM
I'd just changeover that whole assembly (in the second pic), the steering wheel has to come off either way.
and why has the switch got three plugs, and only two used?
It's just the type of microswiitch they used, the middle and one end terminal will be connected in the up position, whereas the middle and the other terminal will be connected in the down position, which isn't needed here.
_livo74_
Posted 27 May 2017 - 10:24 AM
lol
better you spend it than i!
would of just bought something 'pretty' instead and watched the car explode and wonder why haha
-----
and
please keep TMI out of this.
brain already at bursting point!
_---------
yep! too high. ('think' those units i linked are at 125 Celsius, going by further research)
hmm, will then ponder thermos later, as you say.
enough on plate.
_livo74_
Posted 27 May 2017 - 11:57 AM
whole assembly?
you mean the more expensive option? lol
-----
have a forum member that most wonderfully says i can raid a paddock car of his, will hope to add that to list am to send him when have pocket money.
unbeknownst to him... the bloody list just keeps getting longer and longer! lol
Edited by livo74, 27 May 2017 - 11:58 AM.
Socially Distant
Posted 27 May 2017 - 09:59 PM
Sorry, for some reason I assumed you had it already, must have been the carpet?
Don't suppose you kept the original LX steering column that you could scavenge the switch from?
_livo74_
Posted 28 May 2017 - 11:23 AM
no carpet either, one of few things to still get.
couldn't bloody remember what caused me to scavenge off other column was given with car
had to look at old pics
was missing coffee pot and wiring
_livo74_
Posted 28 May 2017 - 11:50 AM
kickdown and modulator hose (temp till get 4mm tubing to bend. )
kickdown
_livo74_
Posted 28 May 2017 - 11:56 AM
modulator hose and new dizzy in, (care of my neighbor who gave me hand fitting control arm bushes)
if anyone knows how am supposed to hookup hei coil would be tops!.. no instructions came with it to help
will do some more searching for examples of setups in forum
Edited by livo74, 28 May 2017 - 11:57 AM.
_livo74_
Posted 28 May 2017 - 11:20 PM
so far from what have read i think i understand it to be No1 & 3 go to Coil + , and 2 & 4 to coil -
although in some threads people talk of red wire.. and i don't have a red coming from the dizzy. have a brown.
bit more research before attaching i reckon!
Edited by livo74, 28 May 2017 - 11:23 PM.
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 29 May 2017 - 12:05 AM
My brain is a bit fried from fixing moo mang at moment so double check.
Brown is rev tacho..negative
Green from dissy to negative
Yellow is power from ignition switch...positive
Pink/tan from dissy to positive.
Usually have radio suppressor/capacitor thing on coil postive too.
Red wire probably be 12v to ignition switch
You get L bracket for coil to bolt it to manifold?
_livo74_
Posted 29 May 2017 - 01:30 PM
_livo74_
Posted 29 May 2017 - 06:54 PM
first cranking over.
nice to see it in motion... but would of preferred it not needing ignition bypass.
bloody wiring.. or ignition barrel or switch.. or neutral cutoff
something ive done wrong anyways.
will put to use my multimeter have bought and try to track down where not receiving power
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 29 May 2017 - 07:12 PM
Put test light to purple wire then get someone to turn key...if it does light up but not there's not enough voltage to get solenoid on starter to engage then it needs relay like most holdens.
If no light at all then start tracing it back from ignition switch.
Also check it's got power at coil.
_livo74_
Posted 29 May 2017 - 07:29 PM
heya gtr 
don't have a test light, do have multimeter
are cheap as so will get one.
imagine hoping to see 12v on meter if used instead.
relay?? time to have a look at wiring diagram again, don't know where the relay is
if no light at all will work backwards to ignition switch as you say
no power at coil, as dizzy not connected yet, nor coil.
was just priming engine with my neighbors guidance. not trying to start her.
(oiled inside rockers and pushrods, spark plugs out, magic spray? of his sprayed into cylinders, oil sender out, compression reduced and check pump working, then replace oil sender switch. not the proper method i have researched into.. but said will work fine, and certainly within my budget!)
Socially Distant
Posted 29 May 2017 - 07:47 PM
Easiest access point would be your inhibitor switch on the gear shifter, I reckon that's where the problem will be?
Hold the key on start and measure the voltage of both purple wires at the inhibitor switch (while it's still connected), if one has battery voltage and the other doesn't then that's where the problem is.
It could just be that the inhibitor switch needs adjusting, try moving the gear selector while holding the key to see if the starter hits?
_livo74_
Posted 29 May 2017 - 07:55 PM
heya andrew
easiest access point?
fook, have dropped my bloody steering column so many times in last month could do it in my sleep hahaha!
will now check the inhibitor switch itself too.
suspect ..wouldn't be the first one known to fail or be misaligned going by your advice.
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 29 May 2017 - 09:42 PM
Yours doesnt have a relay on it..it's for cars that need help cranking particularly when hot.
I suspect yours is more another build quirk to sort out but yeah test light is a good friend to have for ol' holdens
_livo74_
Posted 29 May 2017 - 10:45 PM
107 build quirks, and 67 gremlins.
some... work to do 
_livo74_
Posted 30 May 2017 - 04:48 PM
no power to either purple at trans
also, checked "continuity" of trans switch in "park". no continuity
wiggled, no change.
so apart from no power being sent through purples on trans loom.. it "appears" my shifter switch is no good.
so..
i then go backwards and check my connection (where i cut the original ignition switch loom purple) to see if power there.
none.
(well, ".21" volts when turn ignition on. hmmm??)
so, i have no power being fed through from main red (which DOES have power! i checked.) out to the purple when turn key.
_________
so.. as have a spare parts column.. took the ignition switch from that and swapped it over onto car.
and...
STILL no power to the purple when turn key.
yup. (read: F@#K)
____________
TWO broken ignition switches.
bloody doubt it.
something ive done? mmmmost likely.
Edited by livo74, 30 May 2017 - 04:55 PM.
_livo74_
Posted 30 May 2017 - 04:56 PM
(am buying all new fuses and bulbs for car tomorrow.)
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 30 May 2017 - 06:46 PM
Probably not a bad idea to clean the fuse holder clips while on the job , they do corrode over time and it only takes a little corrosion to make a poor connection.
Electrics is fun
_livo74_
Posted 30 May 2017 - 07:06 PM
Socially Distant
Posted 31 May 2017 - 12:38 AM
so, i have no power being fed through from main red (which DOES have power! i checked.) out to the purple when turn key.
Just to double check, you were HOLDING the key in the START position while testing weren't you? That's the only time purple will have power.
Red has voltage all the time.
Pink only has voltage at IGN position.
Purple and yellow only have voltage in the START position (unless you already joined the pink and yellow wires for the HEI bypass).
EDIT: to change colours after looking at the wiring diagram, should'a checked first, sorry
Edited by Bigfella237, 31 May 2017 - 12:43 AM.
_livo74_
Posted 31 May 2017 - 12:07 PM
Socially Distant
Posted 31 May 2017 - 02:06 PM
Time to drop the column (again) and test for power at the ignition switch itself.
If you've got power going in (red) and none coming out (purple with key at START) then it must be the switch, otherwise your splices for the inhibitor switch harness into the purple wire would be the next port of call?
Quite common for these ignition switches to need rebuilding, there have been many threads on it here, bit of a fiddly job but not all that difficult really.
Or maybe it's just out of adjustment? If I remember my models correctly, the switch slides on slots?
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