1102 replies to this topic

[gtrboyy]

Welcome to joys of Holden ownership in getting to know every single part of your car haha

[Bigfella237]

With all this cranking, did you ever get the transmission cooler lines connected up to the radiator, or is there trans fluid being sprayed around under the car when you wind it over?

 

Does the oil pressure light go out now when cranking, in other words, are you getting oil pressure?

 

Did you get the fuel tank cleaned out and/or treated?

 

So you've now got four working blinkers, how about all the other lights (reverse/brake/tail/etc)?

 

Obviously no horn looking at the steering wheel? Did the fuses fixed the heater fan, wipers and washers?

 

If you had an exhaust you'd nearly be ready to fire up wouldn't ya? Any plans for the exhaust, are you going with a set of extractors or looking for standard manifolds?

[Bigfella237]

Depending on how picky your examiner is when you go to get it registered, I'd suggest you wait to do that until after it's registered? I haven't looked at the ADR again but from memory there's a few requirements for position and visibility, and I'm pretty sure you can have a maximum of only two reverse lights?

 

Anyway, you will need to run a new wire from the reverse light switch (on the gear selector) all the way back to the LEDs because the wiring now is shared with the blinkers (unless you want your reverse lights to flash with the blinkers that is).

 

That is assuming the LEDs don't draw any more power than the two existing bulbs (so 2x 21w), otherwise you may need a battery power feed & a relay in the circuit as well?

[Bigfella237]

It's all fun, I actually don't mind wiring... well except for when you have to lay on your back on the floor with your head under the brake pedal and your arm jammed up under the dash that is!

 

With the blower fan... start by turning it on (I think it works on both IGN and ACC) and check for power at the connector in the engine bay where it goes into the fan motor, one wire will (or at least should) have power on one speed, and the other wire on the other speed.

 

The slower speed is actually achieved by that curly (yellow?) wire on the fan connector having more resistance than the straight wire.

 

If you have voltage at that connector on both speeds then you may need to pull the fan motor out and check it's not blocked up with leaves and crap?

 

hmm, now my car only turns over in neutral, but not in park.

 

 

The inhibitor switch likely just needs adjusting as well, just loosen the screws and slide it back or forth, checking it works in both park and neutral, but obviously not in reverse or drive.

 

(oil light dims and then goes off after about 5 seconds of cranking over.)

 

I know you haven't fitted the correct oil pressure switch but it sounds like you're getting oil pressure up okay then?

 

If you have a tail light coming on instead of reverse then that's a typical sign of earth problems (one bulb can't earth back to the body so it earths back through the other bulb's wiring).

[EunUCh]

i wouldn't try and rewire or replace the reverse lights to replace with LED's , both blinker lights are the reverse lights on these things when reverse is selected.

there was a thread around here a while ago and i think from vague memory there should be a couple of green wires with a connector that are long enough to lead down to round about where the tunnel is flared for the bell housing on the inside of car , if this is the case then it is a simple matter of arranging these 2 wires so that they only get switched in by the switch on the shifter when rev. is selected.

 

 

[gtrboyy]

Grab jerry can stick long hose in it from fuel pump,hook up the ignition stuff.

 

Grab ya neighbour to help fire that thing up...pop some flames from exhaust pipes.

 

From memory reverse is just 2 rear blinkers lighting up..no need for LED's

[Bigfella237]

You'll never get the fuel tank 100% clean without pulling it out. I wouldn't worry too much, just throw some fuel in it and be prepared to replace the fuel filter a couple of times until it catches all the crud?

 

I wouldn't start the engine without at least exhaust manifolds, it's a big fire risk if you've got any leaks and you'll burn all the paint off the chassis rails in about 30 seconds flat! Even with manifolds and no pipes you'll have to be careful not to cook the starter motor / transmission lines / etc., no point making more work for yourself!

 

Having said that, I doubt there's anyone here who hasn't fired up their engine with just extractors open under the car at some time in their life!

[Bigfella237]

Don't tell me you did all that just for a temporary fuel supply?

[Bigfella237]

Most people would just stick the hose in the top of a mower tin?