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Project SLR5000 replica / LX Torana Sedan 77

Started by _livo74_ , Dec 16 2014 07:48 PM

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#651 _livo74_

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 03:16 PM

just bought this rebuild kit. hope is right one.

researched as best can.

mine is a "list 7448" and this seems right

http://www.ebay.com....~0AAOSwu4BVoGUN

so it's time to learn how to rebuild a carby anyways!

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#652 Bigfella237

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 06:35 PM

Not that complicated to rebuild but a lot to explain here (too much typing), I'm sure there would be a few YouTube vids on Holley 350's though?

The main thing is cleaning everything, including all the passages behind the jets etc., especially if it's ever seen ethanol or methanol (either one turns to gel if left sitting and eventually dries to a kind of crystallised gunk that blocks everything)!

For this you really need compressed air (can't remember if you said you had a compressor or not)?

But I'm not sure I'd be opening that particular can of worms just yet, I think I'd be tempted to see if the engine starts first? Then again, if you have time to kill and want to learn, go for it!

Edited by Bigfella237, 22 June 2017 - 06:45 PM.

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#653 _livo74_

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 06:56 PM

cheers for internal pics, and yes there a few few youtube vids it seems! thank friggin' gosh

not sure if those fuels have been used but will see if any gunk. crikey, builds up it seems!

and, figured couldn't tell if engine starts without a working carby.

imagine you mean just pour petrol into carby manually or something.

anyways, told my neighbor will wait till have carby working before he comes over to help finalize dizzy and timing,

so all is on hold for a week or so till kit arrives in mail and do rebuild, then will attack it again

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#654 gtrboyy

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 08:42 PM

Pfft fire it up...seen heaps worse.

Carb would have to be visibly fubar'd for it to not run...had some you could hear airleaks & see fuel leaking yet still run.

Acc pump you'd really need fixed if it were driving but not as much just to run in neutral.

Most likely if get it running new fuel help clean some of residue out lol

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#655 _livo74_

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 09:17 PM

would like to fire it up! but the carby is empty.

not a single drop gets squirted in when using the throttle or manually pumping acc pump lever.

and, the acc pump moves so freely (with the lever pushed clear/aside) that it's like there's no pressure/bladder at all

aargh.

double aargh.

___

as mentioned, the acc pump cam lever is held so tight against the throttle cam that it's

jammed at full/bottomed out at the acc pump end.

i could fix that..

by taking pliers to the cam end of acc pump lever and bending upwards to free it/allow play.

which is all well and good.

..but that doesn't explain why its like that, only rectifies it.

i mean, i can't imagine someone has bent the lever, and that i would just be bending it back into it's "correct/higher position".

???

who would bend the lever? and it doesnt look bent/out of shape.

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#656 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 09:34 PM

buy yourself a can of good carby cleaner also,

i've used this on outboard carbys bikes and car, great stuff the dissolves alot of the crap,

will save u alot of time trying to clean bits,, this and a compressor is all you would need,

http://www.ebay.com....KkAAOSwZQRYd1Sc

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#657 _livo74_

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 09:36 PM

cheers jas, will use!

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#658 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 09:41 PM

my pleasure, u may of already been going to use it, but i didnt see it mentioned at all..

just thought it was worth the mention before u try get in there with rags etc,

with the tube that comes with it you can get in and spray out the jets etc,,,

have a container under where u are spraying to catch the waste and u can soak stubborn parts jets etc in it also,,

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#659 gtrboyy

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 09:51 PM

If it was spitting fuel out untill you got tappity on needle/seat & fuel bowls then it's getting fuel in their.

Squirters probably gunked now..carby cleaner should help dissolve/dislodge & more tappity motions,

Not the worse scenario,just been sitting for ages unused.

Ol' mate got some aerostart in shed?

Edited by gtrboyy, 22 June 2017 - 09:52 PM.

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#660 _livo74_

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 10:03 PM

cheers for the catch n soak idea jas, good thinking!

_________

gtr, i wish it WAS putting fuel INSIDE the carb.. but that was the only place it didn't put it lol!

not a drop has reached inside the carb bowl yet

fear it's not the squirters gunked up (not that i can be trusted to know!)

think the bladder of acc pump is r-u-ooted.

am tearing her apart and TRY to clean and put back together, using youtube vids.

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#661 warrenm

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 07:01 AM

The accelerator pump lever needs to be under the head of the adjustment bolt(the bolt with the spring) it appears to be running behind it in your vid & pic.

https://i.ytimg.com/...k/hqdefault.jpg

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#662 _livo74_

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 10:17 AM

Cheers warren. It may of confused you. First vid shows lever in "correct" place, and how when there that accelerator pump "arm" is jammed at full up.. when accelerator not in use even. (Obviously doesn't move/have anywhere to go/pump when throttle applied.)

Second vid I pulled screw/spring to the side just to show pump "arm" moving.

(Too freely, I might add. Like the bladder is non existent)

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#663 _livo74_

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 10:42 AM

(Meant to write pump arm jammed full down, when it is supposed to go even further down when accelerator applied.)

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#664 koalasprint

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 03:19 PM

Hi Matt, I'd be pulling out the carby and taking it apart while you wait for the kit. TAKE PLENTY OF PICS. I'm sure that there will be debris/powder/varnish inside. Doesn't take much to block any off the myriad of tubes, holes, vents, etc. See if this helps.

http://www.jegs.com/.../510-0-7448.pdf

Cheers, Steve.

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#665 _livo74_

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 04:13 PM

thanks for the link steve!

great for names of parts and how to check setup to get running again.

and the reminder of tanking MANY pics. will be needed, maybe. hahaha

and..

the carby is now being taken apart.

god help us.

god help us all! lol!

Edited by livo74, 23 June 2017 - 04:14 PM.

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#666 _livo74_

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 05:56 PM

have watched a number of vids.

found this one helpful to get a grasp, though will keep watching more.

Holley Carb Rebuilding Part 1, 2 and 3

and the insides of mine.

time to be clean again!

will get a can of that carby cleaner and will borrow my mates air compressor.

going by the vids i've seen it's to not only blow out the holes but also to remove any water that might used, so not left to corrode.

i think?

Edited by livo74, 23 June 2017 - 05:58 PM.

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#667 _livo74_

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 06:33 PM

Seems kit comes with 30cc and 50 cc pump diaphragms
Anyone know which am to use?

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#668 EunUCh

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 07:59 PM

Use the pump that they came out of the box with , i would guess 30cc which is not actually what they squirt in one full stroke of

the pump , heard a rumor that the cc of the pump is what they pump over 10 cycles (3cc/squirt at one full mash of the pedal ?) ....and make sure there is about 10 thou. extra on the pump lever at WOT so that the diaphram on the pump does not get well and truly.

Good thing to pull em to bits first , make sure you get the right metering block gasket for that list/model # because there is differences on some ? The power valve is probably rooted as well so you will need to get at least a couple to play with once the overhaul is done and is driveable. ...and don't over tighten the PV ....they split and cause "flooding" problems?.

The number on the power valve is what it opens at usually in HG of vac. , eg, a 75 will open at 7.5 inches of HG and so on and so forth , the lower the number on PV the later it opens when pedal is pushed.

Generally they reckon a 65 PV and 62 mains should be good enough to get a 253 going on a 350 carb and then fine tune from there on in.

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#669 _livo74_

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 12:07 AM

thanks eunuch! had to bit of research to know what the hell talking about. (many new things i now know the name of today!)

will make sure clearance on pump valve so as to not over press.

and as are not going to oversize the jets/work engine etc anytime soon i will stick with the stock 30cc

as for power valve (one of many things i now know about, along with "jets". ah youtube)

supposedly am to check my vacuum in whilst in gear.. and power valve is to be half that.

that said, not sure what one comes in the kit, will keep you posted to see if is in range you suspect right for my 253

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#670 gtrboyy

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 01:20 AM

Grr that looks more like moisture/water has got into it.

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#671 _livo74_

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 10:12 AM

wondering that myself gtr!

parts certainly looked "rusty" compared with andrews crisp brass parts.

also, i removed pump nozzle squirter to clean and check size, (it's a smallish 31)

and supposedly there is a "check valve needle" underneath, and when i turn carb upside down it should fall out.

here it is in pic

mine doesn't fall out. clogged/jammed i gather

or is there another reason maybe??

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#672 _livo74_

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 10:25 AM

also, mine didn't have grommets/gaskets in place

whereas in replacement nozzle pics from ebay all come with 2 per nozzle.

i guess? one goes below and one inbetween screw and nozzle.

Edited by livo74, 24 June 2017 - 10:26 AM.

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#673 _livo74_

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 10:32 AM

researching further, seems top and bottom paper gaskets are to be used.

mine had water..

but no gaskets. lol

---------

and the actual holley site vid says "sometimes" when hold upside down the discharge check needle" will fall out.

sometimes. but did not elaborate.

(fu@kers!)

Edited by livo74, 24 June 2017 - 10:35 AM.

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#674 _livo74_

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 12:45 PM

IF .. this is indeed the hole that feeds my nozzle jets.. then might explain why no petrol ever reached the bowl of carby.

spraying carby clean into it doesn't come out of the nozzle mount hole. acts blocked.
and as said, my nozzle's discharge check needle won't move/fall out.

i even made a strong rare earth magnet "stick" to reach in and try to pull the needle free, whilst holding the carb upside down. didn't move.