1102 replies to this topic

[EunUCh]

The threaded part of the carb that the fuel line goes into is a "special" adapter that screws into the carb and is part of the "needle and seat" that shuts off the fuel once the float bowel has been filled , there is a tang on the float that pushes  the needle into the seat once the bowel gets to a certain level and cuts off the fuel flow so that it does not flood.(sort of , it leaks a bit all the time but that is another

story).

 

A common fault was that this adapter was over tightened and the thread in the carb got stripped , the carb should come with this fitting because it is part of the carb.

 

If at worst it does not come with the fitting ! , make sure that the thread in the carb is not stripped before you buy because it is a painful process trying to fix it rather than simply yelling out for the fitting.

 

 

 

[Cook]

Matt, admire your persistence and abnility not to get overwhelmed by the task ahead.  Two qualities I don't have.  Also the only dumb question is the one that isn't asked. 

 

I am running a WW Stromberg and couldn't find a definitive answer as to connecting up #9 (which I believe runs to the canister) and the #10 port (which I believe is a sort of fuel vapour overflow) so I am going to run #9 hose to a "T" piece to pick up #10 then one line into the canister.

 

Regarding the fuel line connection, I sourced one from Autobarn and just run rubber line to the fuel line, but I had the needle & seat. Not sure if yours come with it. Cheers Ron

[Cook]

Matt, there are a lot more knowledgeble people than me but I believe the small one on the base plate is Vac Advance and the larger one is to PCV.

 

The two in the middle as far as my research goes is, #9 the larger one goes to canister and the smaller one #5 runs to the manifold, but what for I don't know.  Cheers Ron

[Cook]

Matt, the other issue I created for myself was when turning over the crank to find TDC (which not surprising took me a number of goes) I had the fuel pump connected up and flooded the carby.  You can imagine what happened when I fired it up. Luckily I had bought a fire extinguisher the day before.  Paid for itself in one go. LOL.  Cheers Ron

[EunUCh]

I wouldn't try to get too bogged down in what they had from model to model to control emissions , most of the sensors etc are probably NLA.

As far as ADR27a goes , can't find the list , stashed it in a safe place , and who will be checking tailpipe emissions ?

 

Try not to panic too much , you will get it sorted out step by step , steady as she goes , and ask heaps of questions

One thing i noticed about the little WW with no intake manifold heating is that the carb would freeze up in winter before any heat

could soak up the intake manifold and melt the ice , yes they frost up.

[Shiney005]

One thing i noticed about the little WW with no intake manifold heating is that the carb would freeze up in winter before any heat

could soak up the intake manifold and melt the ice , yes they frost up.

No water heating, but it has EGR to heat it doesn't it? All planes that run carbys have a system of directing warm air from the exhaust manifold to the carby to prevent icing in the venturi area. It can happen with an OAT up around 25 degrees with the right humidity and throttle settings. I guess it could happen in a car if you were going down a big hill with the throttle plates nearly closed. Not a problem in a car. BIG problem in a plane. 

[gtrboyy]

Once you've fired engine up headers will heat up engine bay so doubt will be much of an issue unless in extreme climate lol.

[gtrboyy]

 

Aircleaner on & charcoal canister hooked who would care or notice as long as it looks the part.

 

*pic from notna thread

Edited by gtrboyy, 28 June 2017 - 02:54 PM.

[EunUCh]

Yep , the pollution manifold will have internal exhaust manifold crossovers that heat the manifold so ice won't be a problem, mine was non pollution with water heating to intake manifold bypassed , on some days it was so bad the thing would stall on warm up or a couple

kays down the road at T intersection.

That aside , when new carb arrives it should not be too hard to get it hooked up to start  her up....not fire her up....we don't want any

fires unless it's in the cylinders

 

Not sure how you went with the dizzy and timing but i found the easiest way was to pull #1 plug out , get a socket on a ratchet on the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on and wind it over clockwise with the ratchet with one hand and hold a finger in the plug hole with the other hand until you feel pressure starting to build up , when you feel pressure starting keep winding slowly while looking at the harmonic balance for the notch to come around , wind it till that notch lines up with zero or the longest line on the timing cover , that will be #1 top dead center (TDC).

 

On the top of the body of the dizzy where the cap goes on there should be a line , fit the dizzy with the line on the rotor button to line up with the line on the body of the dizzy.That will give you zero degrees advance , they will run on that but not very nicely so turn the dizzy about 2mm anticlockwise ,nip up the bolt, this will give you a bit of advance but will need checking with timing light.

Edited by EunUCh, 28 June 2017 - 04:22 PM.

[Bigfella237]

Yeah, screw photobucket, there are a heap of free uploaders out there, for the one I use (and find really good, especially if you install the windows app) see my post here:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...e-2#entry999594

 

I think there would be several million people around the world giving photobucket the finger right now!