1102 replies to this topic

[Bigfella237]

The thread in the oil pump on a Holden V8 is 1/4NPT aka 1/4BSP aka 1/4 inch "gas" thread, whatever you want to call it (all the same thing).

 

Note that IT'S A TAPERED THREAD so don't over-tighten it or you will split the alloy oil pump casing.

 

Nearly all oil pressure switches/senders come in either 1/8NPT or the larger 1/4NPT, but I'd say the 1/8NPT ones would be more common, not that it matters here.

 

The T-piece and 1/8NPT switch you pictured above look okay, that would get your dash tell-tale light working properly. That switch is rated at 0.3bar, which is 4.35psi, so that sounds reasonable. A loose old engine might well dip down that low at idle when hot, but a quick double-check of the gauge will tell you if you still have some (any) oil pressure?

 

Then you just connect your new gauge sender in the 1/4NPT fitting that's spare.

 

I know I'm spending your money for you but you can't be too careful when it comes to oil pressure, and it's not uncommon to suffer oil surge with these rear-hump un-baffled sumps (that means if the oil level is low enough, and you corner or hit the brakes hard enough, the pump sucks a big gut-full of air and your oil pressure goes bye-bye).

[Bigfella237]

Yep, the switches and senders all allow a certain amount of ground (earth) to reach the gauges via the single wire.

 

All the gauges, including the volts, will need a positive feed from somewhere in the ignition circuit (so the gauges only work when the ignition is on), plus the volt gauge will need a full time earth, it simply senses the voltage in whatever circuit you connect it to.

 

If you want the volts super-accurate you probably should run a feed wire from the positive battery terminal direct to the gauge (via a fuse) but I wouldn't bother myself, probably better off reading the voltage of the ignition circuit anyway.

 

Apart from that there's only the bulbs that light-up the gauges themselves, not sure whether they're LED or incandescent, or whether they're dimmable in either case, but probably easiest to tap into your grey wire under the console, the one that lights up your PRND21

[Bigfella237]

Nah doesn't matter if they're not LED, in fact they will probably blend in better with the rest of your dash if they are just normal bulbs.

 

The only reason I mentioned LEDs is because some aren't dimable (remember how you turned the headlight switch) and might flicker (which is very annoying) if connected to the same circuit as the centre console light.

 

If you get LEDs that can't be dimmed then you would need to tap into the park light circuit somewhere instead of the dash lights, which is just an extra PITA!

[Bigfella237]

Not brave enough to put the hose on it?

[EunUCh]

depends on where the water is getting in ? , usually once the screens were installed a "mastic gun"was used to squeeze some "d mastic"

windscreen sealant (green tube) between the outer seal lip and body of car  before the lock strip was installed , there used to be a "special tool" to install the lock strip . Once the the lock strip was installed this shit would ooze out and get cleaned up with turps and

plenty of clean rag.

The other problem is that the mylar lock strip (pictures of it around here somewhere?) available now is only for the "early" pre box TORANA and is a different profile and is a pain to install on the boxes  without much cursing and swearing , what a shame it's 2017 and they can't even get something like that right ?

[Shiney005]

Those flares are looking shmicko Mat. Well done!

[Bigfella237]

Except that all the seats came out of a Subaru didn't they? And the seat belts got changed as well from memory?

 

If you can't get any fluid whatsoever through the rear lines, it could also be the flexible line between the body and diff too, they can swell shut over time.

 

I don't suppose you would have bench-bled the master cylinder before installing it?