my bad, i didnt realise they were not torana seats..
still would they make u engineer it for that??
Posted 10 August 2017 - 11:58 PM
my bad, i didnt realise they were not torana seats..
still would they make u engineer it for that??
Posted 11 August 2017 - 12:16 AM
correct andrew, subaru seats and aftermarket belts.
and as bench seat jas, it didn't have all the mounts pre drilled for front buckets.
and don't put it passed vic roads to want it engineered for that. cus they do the bastards.
(might try and get away with not mentioning it at first rwc, pretending was as bought and unaware, and see what happens.)
will replace flex lines andrew. no fluid whatsoever.
was wondering if was maybe because haven't sealed the brake lines* i installed properly, and have a leak??
(as in so no "pressure". hmm, maybe not. don't understand the physics.)
*in regards to the rear, just the foot long one from master to booster that are new, that may not of screwed/sealed properly??
bench bled?
you suppose right!
what made you supspicious..??
LOL
Edited by livo74, 11 August 2017 - 12:17 AM.
Posted 11 August 2017 - 11:50 AM
That fluffy sounds clean now.
May as well rebuild calipers,change wheel cylinders & hoses...they have a tendency to die of shock for cars not driven in years.
Hoses tend to swell up sealing inside.
Hissing air sound either air leak from booster hose or fittings...to test booster,give brake pedal a few pumps it will harden then hold it down & start car to soften.
Factory seats aren't they...whistles,birds sing..looks at sky
Posted 11 August 2017 - 04:23 PM
she's clean as now!
still a bit of "thong slap" to go around haha
but fooking wonderful all the same!!
full rebuild it will be. (Aargh!) most of all, just to be safe.
and boo, think booster is hissing/leak.
will test as advised.
"Factory seats aren't they...whistles,birds sing..looks at sky"
oh, there'll be plenty of that!!
-------
noisy fan much! jeez! (will consider changing to an "s" bladed fan in future. quieter, am led to believe)
and idle screw backed off ..bit more than a tad
Edited by livo74, 11 August 2017 - 04:25 PM.
Posted 12 August 2017 - 09:29 AM
G'day Mat, posts that went missing from this thread during the upgrade attached below...
LS1 Taxi 11/08/2017 9:02 PM:
That thing sounds and looks great mate.
A credit to you!
koalasprint 11/08/2017 9:11 PM:
Time to reflect? Go back to your first post. Almost mission accomplished?
livo74 11/08/2017 9:12 PM:
Cheers daz! Complete newb guesswork went into my choice of extractors and exhaust but I just love the result!
livo74 11/08/2017 9:24 PM:
it's crazy to look back on that "dream car" pic now, steve!
(will always crap on my paint and bodywork... but suspect i saved a few grand not having THAT version )
pic just reminded me... need gtr mirrors, windscreen wipers, visors, 40mm rear wheel spacers... and of course rego plates.
(SLR-77X or SLR-OCD if had extra pocket money.)
--------------
http://www.ebay.com....9MAAOSwq5lTluO0
bloody $140 EACH!
can't be right.
as have not looked into and therfore have no clue how hard is to recondition..
have been teasing myself with these for $550
http://www.ebay.com....ZwAAOSwLVZV1ti2
anyone on this site offer reconditioning of calipers? and how much? may post thread asking
76lxJAS 11/08/2017 10:55 PM
recoing your calipers is super simples,
remove caliper, to remove the piston just close the nipple and blow it out with the compressor through the hole your brake live goes to,,
do NOT point the piston at your face or body as it can come out with some force,,
check the cylinder for scores etc, it may need a lite hone,,
fit new piston with the seal and dust cap,
do apply rubber grease to the pistons seal on install also,,
...to be continued (apparently I'm not allowed to have so many quotes in one post)...
Edited by Bigfella237, 12 August 2017 - 09:33 AM.
Posted 12 August 2017 - 09:32 AM
Shiney005 11/08/2017 11:10 PM:
------------ QUOTE ----------
76lxJAS:
do NOT point the piston at your face or body as it can come out with some force,,
-----------------------------
I can vouch for this. I blackened a thumbnail through this procedure once!
livo74 11/08/2017 11:11 PM
Super simples got me over the line.
Will give it a go!
(But first try to find cheaper than $280 for two rebuild kits! Think.. my pistons are very pitted and better to replace. Well one I've taken a squiz at, anyways)
livo74 11/08/2017 11:13 PM:
Advice heeded!
Knowing me it would of been my face, shiney!
sloffador 11/08/2017 11:40 PM:
>From memory Mat it only cost me about $70 for the rebuild kit
duggan208 12/08/2017 12:06 AM:
Many more enjoyable hours with that, sounds nice.
Regards
That should be all of them... times quoted are AEST
Posted 12 August 2017 - 09:34 AM
champion andrew! much appreciated, thank you
Posted 12 August 2017 - 09:36 AM
__________
sloffador, will look for cheaper kit!
and...
cheers duggan! goodness willing many more hours indeed!
Edited by livo74, 12 August 2017 - 09:37 AM.
Posted 12 August 2017 - 10:05 AM
Matt, Better Brakes in Bayswater did the front discs on my WB ute and charged $176 so I suspect they would sell the kit alone for something less than that.
Posted 12 August 2017 - 11:19 AM
what do you mean by the discs, cook? they refurbished the calipers?
and was that for both or each?
Posted 12 August 2017 - 01:00 PM
Sorry, not thinking. They re-kitted the calipers for the front disc brakes. It was for both. Cheers Ron
Edited by Cook, 12 August 2017 - 01:00 PM.
Posted 12 August 2017 - 01:16 PM
Posted 12 August 2017 - 01:49 PM
Mat FWIW I had the Hatch front calipers rekitted back in 2015 at a brake shop in Ringwood and that cost $197 but I think I got overcharged albeit they said they had problems getting the bleed nipples out and they also sandblasted the calipers. Anyway here is the bill and you can see the cost of the actual parts is only $77. Cheers Ron
Posted 12 August 2017 - 03:11 PM
Posted 12 August 2017 - 04:49 PM
I'm sure there will be plenty of brake places around that will give you a reasonable price. Cheers Ron
Posted 12 August 2017 - 05:24 PM
hoping so. if can get a comparable rate to that of doing myself.. will let someone else do it!
got enough on plate.. like worrying booster has a leak at the back where it pushes up to the firewall and has that black sleeve.
is that even possible? makes a whoosh sound (inside car) when press on pedal.
(not holding pressure to test pedal as advised by gtr)
chance.. booster needs reco as well.
Edited by livo74, 12 August 2017 - 05:25 PM.
Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:21 PM
Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:34 PM
as in, i only have to firmly press shifter to the forwardmost part of neutral, and it JUST engages reverse.
and does not have to have button pressed/slip over "blocker". (not quite the technical name i suspect)
and.. i have to press button and put it into "2nd".. that it gets into "drive".
will jump under car and try again.
-------------------
my thoughts on setup process are/were,
when in park.. the rod gets pulled backwards.. and therefore so does the lever. (an upright lever trimatic, anyways)
so when i set it up.. i just put in park, pulled shift linkage/lever backwards too.. and tightened rod/lever nut.
wallah!
only, NOT.
as in, i only have to firmly press shifter to the forwardmost part of neutral, and it JUST engages reverse.
and does not have to have button pressed/slip over "blocker". (not quite the technical name i suspect)
and.. i have to press button and put it into "2nd".. that it gets into "drive".
Edited by livo74, 12 August 2017 - 06:47 PM.
Posted 12 August 2017 - 06:36 PM
i am going to change the name of this thread to..
"what can go wrong in a torana build. heres the full list"
hahaha
Posted 12 August 2017 - 07:11 PM
Dattoman should be able to give advice on booster & what to check.
Can't tell what's going on with that shifter.
Normally I put shifter in park or 1st then do same with auto & then tighten adjuster,usually check it gets both 1st & park.
Then pop in neutral to see if it starts....if it does then check in gear that it won't start..after that adjust gear indicator up/down & check it all lines up correctly & auto actuallly selects those gears.
Does your selector rod still have enough length on it for more adjustment?
Is there a difference between 6cyl & 8cyl selector rods or commodore vs torana bends?
Posted 12 August 2017 - 07:34 PM
Posted 13 August 2017 - 04:02 PM
booster sound normal... when have "silencer" muffling the escaping air, that is.
i appear not to.
(but do now via some cushion and a cabletie)
--------------
seems i do have brakes.. some anyways.
pedal "fluctuates" almost in tune with the idle of car.
not... ideal
something wrong there.
(might be to do with my rears being "shite"?? who knows!)
-----------
the shifter...
was informed early on in thread i appear to have a th400 shifter
pondered, have deduced/suspect it's "arm" length is longer or shorter than a normal trimatic shifter.. meaning a different length of travel of rod forwards and backwards.
(going by the maths in my brains.. it's too LONG, no, short? no..??)
will get a new shifter.
Edited by livo74, 13 August 2017 - 04:20 PM.
Posted 13 August 2017 - 04:20 PM
Sounds like you're getting the hang of it sorting out these little issues...always positive when car drives so you longer have to them haha
Yeah I'd say shifter has different throw length to what you need & not enough adjustability.
So booster works correctly no air leaks etc just missing foam silencer crap?
Edited by gtrboyy, 13 August 2017 - 04:23 PM.
Posted 13 August 2017 - 04:29 PM
heya gtr, starting to get head around issues.. (and sometimes will buy the wrong things/be way off track! lol)
throw length, that's the term!
amount travels is OFF/OUT. (best i can gauge.. rod can be a meter long or 2 inch's long, doesn't matter. it's the length of travel that counts. i think, anyways?)
and yup, foam silencer missing.
soooooo far.. good news
REALLY REALLY don't want to have to remove booster, and for the 2nd time too!. (i have a bad back and doing it.. doesn't do me any favours).
but...pedal "fluctuates" almost in tune with the idle of car (pressure/less pressure/pressure/less pressure etc)
hmmm.
Edited by livo74, 13 August 2017 - 04:30 PM.
Posted 13 August 2017 - 04:44 PM
brake pedal "fluctuates".. might be the check valve on booster, going by internet search.
(check valve, grommet and hose.. 3 things were just advised to replace.. without them even knowing of problem. funny that )
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