1 votes
_livo74_
Posted 13 August 2017 - 04:55 PM
whilst looking for shifter, cam across this of a couple for sale.
hoping that when buy one i bloody get the correct one this time.
anyways, one on car "appears" to be a long "arm"/tag? like the one on the left.
suspect need the one on the right.
will try to buy off someone who knows for sure is standard trimatic shifter, thats for sure
_livo74_
_livo74_
Posted 13 August 2017 - 05:06 PM
hmmm. or do i need a VB comm one?? aargh!!
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 13 August 2017 - 08:17 PM
Consult one of the square guru's for confirmation...you'll probably have to track down info & double check for a solution.
Commodore trimatics have selector rod on passenger side I think just maybe uc torana trimatic shifter is passenger side & lh-x driver's side????
Vaguely remember old timer's saying you could tap shaft out of shifter & re-assemble it so bracket goes other side????
Commodore shifter plate etc won't suit torrie tunnel
Do know earlier model trimatics were different with selector on other side,cable or linkage kickdowns too.
_livo74_
Posted 13 August 2017 - 09:07 PM
Socially Distant
Posted 13 August 2017 - 09:42 PM
Yes "KO" is a Trimatic from a 253 V8 VB Commodore.
Only the 304/308ci Holden V8s had the Chevy transmissions, starting with the TH400 from 10/74 (HJ Holden) until 05/79, when they were replaced by the smaller TH350 in WB and Commodore until 11/81, after which all V8 autos were Trimatic again until the end of the VL Commodore.
I can't remember exactly when (Torana-wise) that the Trimatic changed from right to left side selectors, I *think* it was at the end of the LX but don't quote me on that?
So you're probably looking for an auto shifter from a 6 cylinder UC Torana, but with a rod from a V8 Trimatic Commodore? Or if you have a welder just modify what you have now!
_livo74_
Posted 13 August 2017 - 09:54 PM
heya andrew, was wondering that, well not welding but.. pulling shifter out and drilling a new hole in arm, higher up, but think drilling/getting it at right position wouldn't be easy.
could be done with enough trys and retrys, until at point each move of shifter moves trans lever same gear, i guess.
be a lot bloody easier if my extractors were in, that's for sure.
Edited by livo74, 13 August 2017 - 09:55 PM.
Lotsa Posts!
Posted 13 August 2017 - 10:03 PM
Uc shifter with your selector rod should do the trick.
If rod is too short just weld extension piece on to it.
_livo74_
Posted 13 August 2017 - 10:38 PM
??suspect rod will be fine.
can extend/weld if needed.
uc's seem the go as you and andrew say. (also wb's from what have been reading.)
guess with a uc there is no guesswork..as only came in the 6cyl, and therefore no 308/th350-400 version to mistakenly buy.
will look into 
_livo74_
Posted 13 August 2017 - 10:41 PM
added to that is my search for a brake booster vacuum/check valve
cant bloody find one for sale anywhere! (part pv119 or vh2183?, am told)
Forum Fixture
Posted 14 August 2017 - 10:16 AM
Matt, there is a UC shifter on EBay in Geelong with starting bid $27. Not sure if that is what you are looking for but bracketry looks different. Cheers Ron
Edited by Cook, 14 August 2017 - 10:17 AM.
_livo74_
Posted 14 August 2017 - 07:05 PM
a short armed shifter, cheers ron!
brackets don't interfere with console hopefully. if do.. out with the angle grinder! and not for the first time lol
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got it! cheers ron!
Edited by livo74, 14 August 2017 - 09:10 PM.
_Potsie_
Posted 15 August 2017 - 08:50 PM
_livo74_
Posted 16 August 2017 - 09:23 AM
_livo74_
Posted 17 August 2017 - 10:02 PM
so i got my gauges, and sensors, and instructions.
not being an auto elec.. best i can guess .. i can just
-tap out of the grey(instrument) power with a single wire and loop from one terminal to the next of EVERY positive+
-run a wire from an ground/earth inside car and run/loop to every negative-..
..except the 2 standalone negatives.. that have a wire EACH from sensors.
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also..
i don't think my engine enjoyed being UNmatched to a shifter that, say,
got frOcking misaligned with what the shifter said and what the actual gear it was actually in,
when i, say, started having trouble starting car in park so would put in what i thought was neutral, one or two too many times.
i think the starter made funny noises the last time i started it. like it was still running for a second or two after i unturned key.
anyways, so now the car wont turn over/starter motor actuate..
at first thought maybe shifter switch playing up again. so i undid console and checked have power being sent via purple.
and checked have power coming out of ignition to starter.
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need a second set of hands to check power at starter itself..
or will make an extention wire from starter to see if it's getting power the whole way to it, both the purple and red. (as my multimetre leads not long enough for me to read screen whilst turning key.)
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suspect have #@$^%& my starter motor.
or something.
suspect that sucks for a couple of reasons.
probably the main one being ive sheared teeth off flywheel for all i know.
and, the fact i can't fooking bloody get to my starter because of the extractors..
and they are a day to remove and install, because you cant get to them where they are joined .
oh, and guess need a new starter as well.
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or have just blown a fuse that i don't know about.
gosh, that WOULD be sweet.
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fook.
Edited by livo74, 17 August 2017 - 10:03 PM.
_76lxJAS_
Posted 17 August 2017 - 10:24 PM
well the + and - in the circles at the top of the gauges are for lights..
you want to connect these + to the wire the feed your dash lights, not sure on color ATM. you could tap into this pre harness connector behind the instrument cluster..
all - could be linked together and meet at one point,, on a bolt or similer anywhere behind the dash, just make sure its a clean connection no paint etc
the othe positives need to go to a wire the is only powered with the ignition on,, this way your gauges work only when you the key is in the on position..
sender unit wires are just that,
_livo74_
Posted 17 August 2017 - 10:37 PM
_76lxJAS_
Posted 17 August 2017 - 10:42 PM
my pleasure mate, glad to help out where i can.
yes grey for the 3 light positives if this wire is only powered when the lights are turned on.. .
if you ran the others there your gauges would only work with the lights turned on..
and as u say multi meter for a wire that is powered when the ignition is on for the others
cheers Jason
Edited by 76lxJAS, 17 August 2017 - 10:43 PM.
Socially Distant
Posted 18 August 2017 - 12:04 AM
suspect have #@$^%& my starter motor.
or something.
I would've thought that having survived all that initial cranking before you got the motor running, it could survive anything, but the only way to tell for sure is to check if voltage is getting down to the small terminal (purple wire?) on the starter solenoid, if you have power there when the key is in the start position then the starter is most likely the culprit?
probably the main one being ive sheared teeth off flywheel for all i know.
Very unlikely, the starter has a throwout system that will disengage the little drive gear from the ring gear if the starter keeps going after the engine starts, plus if the starter was working but had stripped teeth off the ring gear I guarantee you would know about it, the starter would be making the most God-awful noise!
If that does happen you can usually 'bush-mechanic' it by turning the motor over by hand just like an eighth of a turn so the starter engages the next set of teeth.
A V8 engine will always stop in one of four positions on the ring gear (as each of the cylinders approaches the compression stroke) so the starter tends to always engage the same few teeth every time.
or have just blown a fuse that i don't know about.
Pretty sure there aren't any fuses in the starter circuit?
_livo74_
Posted 18 August 2017 - 09:58 AM
cheers for the info andrew!
so i can strip teeth 4 times! lol
am hoping none of that has occurred and don't remember hearing any godawful noises thankfully
will turn by hand 1/8th if have!
will check for purple voltage at starter today.
the only fuse i could think of was that "fusible link" in the engine wiring harness that goes to same terminal on the starter as the battery feed
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found i had blown 3amp dash fuse yesterday.
related? hmmm.
_livo74_
Posted 18 August 2017 - 11:32 AM
who's a very, very lucky boy!
purple has slipped off terminal at starter.
having to replace starter would of been.. not particularly great.
haven't exactly been driving a lot and on bumpy roads for it to of fallen off. will check tightness again when have wheel off and can give it a good look at and make sure firm as.
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you were right andrew about being suspicious of starter failing now, after all it's been through.
_livo74_
Posted 18 August 2017 - 10:26 PM
so have mounted my gauges (temporarily) and have run the new "gauge/sensor" temp and oil sensor wires.
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have now got all engine side of wiring completed.. except new temp "switch" sensor not installed.
went to unplug the drivers side manifold bung and screw in the new (correct) temp "switch" for the dash warning light..
and the bloody thing doesn't fit the hole. wasn't expecting that.
seems my vb manifold doesn't seem to like my torana temp "switch".
in drivers side hole anyways. or are they all the same size hole? hmmm.
will have to come up with another solution
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Edited by livo74, 18 August 2017 - 10:27 PM.
_76lxJAS_
Posted 18 August 2017 - 11:11 PM
_livo74_
Posted 18 August 2017 - 11:13 PM
Socially Distant
Posted 19 August 2017 - 01:20 AM
That's weird, I thought those threads have been the same in all Holden V8s since the beginning of time?
Do you mean the threaded part is too big in diameter, or that the long dongle thing pokes too far out the back and hits the back of the hole?
If it's the latter, I'd try the middle hole, it may be deeper than the two outside holes? Otherwise it must be the wrong sensor as all the holes should be the same size & thread.
Edited by Bigfella237, 19 August 2017 - 01:21 AM.
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