Edited by Skapinad, 27 January 2015 - 05:17 PM.

Concrete For Hoist Help!
#26
_Skapinad_
Posted 27 January 2015 - 05:16 PM
#27
Posted 27 January 2015 - 05:24 PM
So hoists are held up by a cable only ? No other secondary safety pins or similar ?
Depends on who,s hoist you buy adam
#28
_GMH-001_
Posted 27 January 2015 - 05:26 PM
Our 4 post has a secondary safety lock. These don't function while a cable has tension on it. If cable breaks the spring loaded safeties kick into action. I would imagine a 2 post would have a similar deal
#29
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 27 January 2015 - 05:27 PM
Yeah most modern ones have a ratchet type mechagnism.
#30
Posted 27 January 2015 - 05:34 PM
i know another dude that bought a Happ hoist i think they are in Queensland its a lot heavier duty than the Tufflift
not saying that Tufflift are bad either
#31
Posted 27 January 2015 - 05:43 PM
So hoists are held up by a cable only ? No other secondary safety pins or similar ?
This particular hoist was an old Molnar, like 15 years old (and this was 15 years ago), it did have a lock lever on one side only (the side where the controls were) but it was up to the operator as to whether this lock was engaged or not and the damn thing made such a noise going up that we rarely even used it.
IIRC the new hoist it got replaced with had ratchet locks up both posts (as everything would these days I guess) which engaged automatically... I think we put up with the ratcheting noise for a few months and then that got wired in the off position too!
But that was a different era, the priority back in those days was getting the work done, not having a "workplace safety meeting" every time someone spilled three drops of oil on the floor.
#32
Posted 27 January 2015 - 05:49 PM
yep 100/150mm
#33
Posted 27 January 2015 - 06:25 PM
thanks for all the replies guys gives me a bit to go on....
#34
Posted 27 January 2015 - 08:54 PM
Hi BullitA9X,
I had one of those installed in my home garage, 3.6m wide 4 inch concrete base. I use it for the LC and my families cars with no problem.
Enjoy it when its done , I know I have.
Cheers Brian (50 year old mechanic, too old to be on his back)
#35
Posted 27 January 2015 - 09:13 PM
I had made up 2 x 10mm x 500mm x 1500mm spreader plates that "I" was happy to use along with tying the pillars of the hoist to the roof trusses and welding the spreader plates to the hoist base plates. Sadly, others doubted my engineering skills and I was forced into submission and done this::::
Paid $800 to have a concreter come in and replace THAT part of the slab with the rated mega/pascal poo which he reinforced and keyed under and into the original slab. This slab straddles both pillars.
#36
_Macca97_
Posted 28 January 2015 - 01:24 PM
the square base of the new 2 posters arnt big enough in my eyes, our formula 2 poster has the square base than a nice long straight bit that's about 3ft long to stop the hoist from swaying when shaking the car, concrete is only a 100-125mm in a licenses workshop, we've had 3tonne on the hoist and had the car shaking around hoist never moved, do have some big dyna bolts in it though
#37
Posted 28 January 2015 - 04:23 PM
hey macca 2 mates today have suggested the same as your 2 poster you have put a strip of steel long ways for more support and I just watched some YouTube car vids and there 2 posters where done like this aswell ...
the square base of the new 2 posters arnt big enough in my eyes, our formula 2 poster has the square base than a nice long straight bit that's about 3ft long to stop the hoist from swaying when shaking the car, concrete is only a 100-125mm in a licenses workshop, we've had 3tonne on the hoist and had the car shaking around hoist never moved, do have some big dyna bolts in it though
#38
_Macca97_
Posted 28 January 2015 - 07:34 PM
was going to try and put some pics up but im using internet explorer so I cant, cant even put the link up to my photo bucket, might have to click the build link in my signature than on a photo to get to my ph bucket, but there is 2 pics of the hoist there
#39
_Agent 34_
Posted 29 January 2015 - 08:57 AM
I don't put hoists up but inspect concrete slabs now as part of my job.
here is a couple of concrete details for garage slabs;
el cheapo - can come down to 100mm and 1 layer of F7.2mm sheet mesh - 20 mpa concrete - NO EDGE THICKENING - OR REBATE AROUND PERIMETER
Heavy duty - 125mm thick and 1 layer of F8.2mm sheet mesh ( this is the thickness of the steel bar in the sheet ) 25mpa + edge thickening and in some cases depending on the size of the slab a center beam.
Tips;
you really cannot put a " topping slab on a thin garage slab" to get it upto the desired depth or structural thickness - it will not work unless it's at least 100mm thick and sparrow pecked and bars drilled into the floor . You could do a " raised pad being the total area of the lift + car area and this would work - but again the preparation and the rectification works would best be done by an engineer to be sure BUT the following should be fine.
100 mm topping slab with 1 additional layer of F7.2 sheet mesh -sparrow peck the concrete - drill bars 10mm reo bars around the "post legs" wipe with a solution of " bond crete " and then pour with 25MPA concrete.- the whole section.- this is for an undersized slab.
125mm is the minimum that i would thick a hoist could go on.
ALSO there is consideration of the type of slabs underfill used and the " waffle type " as not the best . you want correctly compacted fill.
hopefully this will give an alternative view.
you just need to distribute the " point load " of the car across a wider area. OR beef up the area in which the point load is to take place.
G
#40
Posted 29 January 2015 - 03:33 PM
edge thickening you say???
Thanks to the gophers ( coal miners) in this area....here is my version of edge thickening, and the footing reqd. under each and every shed vertical post.
Costs a pile more to the resident like me.......but they ( Mines Board) promises to come and fix it for free, if it ever breaks due to the old mine shafts etc collapsing under the ground.
Attached Files
#41
Posted 30 January 2015 - 07:39 AM
Totally over engineered for a coloirbond shed and cost me near enough to 4k just for the concrete + labour.
The concreter and the council inspector both agreed it was overkill and I could put a 2 story brick house on my slab...
But the council wanted engineer work for the slab and that's what they gave me....
#42
Posted 30 January 2015 - 10:07 PM
http://www.tufflift..../2-post-hoists/
#43
Posted 31 January 2015 - 02:41 AM
If the thickness of the concrete concerns you there is the option of putting a flat plate under the legs .12-16mm plate under the legs about another 250 mm bigger all round the foot print with a 1m x 50 mm SHS stiffener at the back in case you have a weight distribution issue .Remember it will only fall on you once .
#44
_hutch_
Posted 31 January 2015 - 07:56 AM
#45
Posted 31 January 2015 - 09:35 AM
Out of the Tufflift range what model 2 post is a good choice for the majority of hobbyist with the usual selection of muscle cars? There is a quite a few choices.... Is it a case of just spend a few hundred more the get a better featured hoist etc?
http://www.tufflift..../2-post-hoists/
I have the tufflift 4 tonne base plate hoist TL4 OBPDI, I have had it for a couple of years now and for the last 6 months i have been using it commercially. I have not had any operational issues at all with the hoist .My only gripe is that they claim the minimum pad height is 98 mm,my hoist is on a slab with a fall and my minimum pad height is 118mm on the uphill side and 135mm on the downhill side.I guess on a level slab the pad height would be about 125mm. I love the hoist except when i have to jack low commodores etc up to get the pads under them cheers Rodney
#46
Posted 31 January 2015 - 09:45 AM
#47
Posted 31 January 2015 - 02:11 PM
Hi Brad,
I have this one.
Manual says min pad height 102mm.
Just sneaks under my LJ, 205/60/13 tyre, lowered car.
Measured the pad height and I reckon its about 100mm when fully lowered.
Attached Files
#48
Posted 31 January 2015 - 06:47 PM
~ I love the hoist except when i have to jack low commodores etc up to get the pads under them cheers Rodney
We used to have several squares cut from conveyor belt rubber handy that we would stack as needed and drive onto, which gained an inch or two (25-50mm for you metric types) for getting the arms under anything extra low.
We cut each square shorter than the one underneath to form a bit of a ramp to drive up. Unlike a wooden or steel 'ramp', conveyor belt rubber will never slip forward as non-driven wheels climb onto it.
BTW, all vehicles are supposed to have a ground clearance of:
at least 100mm at any point within 1 metre of an axle;
Which I guess is what TuffLift designed their 98mm spec to suit?
#49
Posted 31 January 2015 - 08:07 PM
my pads at the lowest point are way more than 100 mm if you read what i said
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