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Triple SU Setup in LC Torana

Started by _COSH_ , Feb 02 2015 12:53 PM
Triple SU Manifold LC

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#26 _COSH_

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 08:17 PM

So I've got my triple su setup now, going to start fitting it tomorrow.  

 

The only thing I don't have is a triple choke linkage kit, am I best off buying one of the rare spares ones?  How do they mount to the carbs?  Anyone have any photos of their setup?


#27 Dave6179

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Posted 28 February 2015 - 12:36 PM

Like this.

https://www.google.c...7D6LcmgWd1YGgAQ

I've just made my own from bits of alloy plate/bar, and bicycle brake cable.


#28 _COSH_

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Posted 02 March 2015 - 05:16 PM

Got a photo of how the individual choke cables mount to the carbs? The rares ones are designed for the strombergs and I can't see how the clips would work on the su's

#29 _Agent 34_

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Posted 02 March 2015 - 06:21 PM

Tip,

 

spend some time in shaping/ trimming  the area around the " nut" *( manifold section side ) where it holds on the flange. you need to get a ring spanner on there and it's always pretty tight between the nut hex and the manifold section.


Edited by Agent 34, 02 March 2015 - 06:22 PM.

#30 stevemc32

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Posted 02 March 2015 - 07:03 PM

I'm far from one of the engine experts but I ran a set of 1.75" SU's on a 186 a long time ago for about 5 years and never bothered connecting the chokes.  It just wasn't needed for daily driving around Sydney so I'd guess it'd be the same up Brisbane way.  Unless you're looking to make sure it's all complete, it might not be necessary.


#31 _COSH_

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Posted 02 March 2015 - 07:28 PM

Tip,
 
spend some time in shaping/ trimming  the area around the " nut" *( manifold section side ) where it holds on the flange. you need to get a ring spanner on there and it's always pretty tight between the nut hex and the manifold section.


Thanks for the heads up, I need to trim the manifold flanges to suit the extractors, so I'll make sure I check that while I'm at it.

#32 _COSH_

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Posted 02 March 2015 - 07:35 PM

I'm far from one of the engine experts but I ran a set of 1.75" SU's on a 186 a long time ago for about 5 years and never bothered connecting the chokes.  It just wasn't needed for daily driving around Sydney so I'd guess it'd be the same up Brisbane way.  Unless you're looking to make sure it's all complete, it might not be necessary.


I used to run choke-less on my last red motor that I had years ago and hated it. I've found that it's just easier to pull the choke out and drive to warm up the motor. I'm also a bit worried about starting up the su's without a choke, given they don't have an accelerator pump.

#33 orangeLJ

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 01:07 PM

Never ran chokes in mine either.

Only ever had a problem starting on <10 degree mornings

#34 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 03:49 PM

No chokes here either and I run it lean , if it's real cold a bit slow to start I can live with that and you soon learn the best method of starting , they won't steal it out of my drive at night , me and my cattle dog will get there before they get it started .

#35 _COSH_

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 03:59 PM

Cool, well I have a choke cable hooked up already, so I'll rig it up to one of the carbs and see if I can live with it.

 

Thanks guys.


#36 _2ELCS_

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 05:41 PM

If you would like to see how I did the chokes on my car go to page 11 of the members projects and plans,  look under Green Machine #3...post478.

it might give you some ideas Adam or if you have any questions ...ask away..

 

Mine definatly won't start without chokes when its cold....


#37 wot179

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 05:56 PM

cabys1.jpg

carbys3.jpg

carbs2.jpg

carbys4.jpg

There ya go ya old bugger.

#38 _2ELCS_

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 06:40 PM

Thanks Craig...I'll learn how to do that shit one day....


#39 _COSH_

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Posted 03 March 2015 - 07:21 PM

Thanks guys, that's exactly what I was after!

#40 _COSH_

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Posted 07 March 2015 - 04:50 PM

7a187504f2d4e827dc442033ce62087f.jpg<br />87db31b6a8c1fc08e8f687bc494909ba.jpg<br />Progress shots.

#41 FNQ

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Posted 07 March 2015 - 06:31 PM

looking good


#42 _COSH_

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Posted 07 March 2015 - 08:13 PM

Next issue: the fuel barbs on the carb are a fair bit smaller than the 5/16" fittings that were supplied with the triple fuel block. So I have to figure out what size fuel line I need; looks to be about 1/4".  This I find out after buying a couple of m of 5/16" line.

 

It also looks like the fuel inlets are on the inside, vents on the outside, so i'm going to have to run the regulator and fuel block on the inside.  It's gonna get really hot and very cramped with the cables and pcv lines.

 

Also looks like the battery may fit in it's original condition, or with a slight rotation of the tray.


#43 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 March 2015 - 09:02 PM

1/4" is correct. 


#44 _COSH_

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Posted 11 March 2015 - 06:44 PM

So, I've finished the install and the engine is running again. Now I just need to test drive it and see how good the afr's are. Oh and the battery was fine in it's original spot. It's a tight fit though.

#45 _COSH_

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Posted 12 March 2015 - 08:01 AM

Here is a photo of the setup, just before I re-installed the battery <br />023dc989a3ad06431f73d45ad29084e4.jpg

#46 Dave6179

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Posted 12 March 2015 - 12:42 PM

You might want to take the fuel block off the engine. Hot fuel is bad. I've just rerouted my fuel line from the pump. I bent up a steel line to go under the engine, behind the crossmember, then turns forwads, under the engine mount, to my Fuelstar now mounted on the chassis rail. Then the rubber hose up to the front carb, splitting to the others. The fuel line has gone from almost too hot to touch for more than 5 seconds, to nice and cold! And I have cut holes in the radiator side plates.

Still trying to exhaust the hot air out of the bay... guard flutes don't seem to do a whole lot. Even exhaust wrap did buggerall, and the ACL heat sheild didn't do much!


#47 _COSH_

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Posted 12 March 2015 - 05:19 PM

You might want to take the fuel block off the engine. Hot fuel is bad. I've just rerouted my fuel line from the pump. I bent up a steel line to go under the engine, behind the crossmember, then turns forwads, under the engine mount, to my Fuelstar now mounted on the chassis rail. Then the rubber hose up to the front carb, splitting to the others. The fuel line has gone from almost too hot to touch for more than 5 seconds, to nice and cold! And I have cut holes in the radiator side plates.

Still trying to exhaust the hot air out of the bay... guard flutes don't seem to do a whole lot. Even exhaust wrap did buggerall, and the ACL heat sheild didn't do much!

Yep, a heat shield is next on the list.  I'm going to get rid of the fuel block and just run the fuel line between the linkage and the bowls, using two tees and a 90 deg bend at the end.  When the heat shield is in, the fuel line will sit between it and the carbs.


#48 _COSH_

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 07:08 PM

fab15faf3ad0ce203cabc21a976e26e9.jpg4b08ab0aaf7612ff32c31b8008134930.jpg<br />Some photos of the final setup. I ended up getting the triple choke block from rares and zip tying the cables to the mounting point on the carb. From the initial test drives, the needles that were supplied with the carbs to supposedly suit my motor are waaay too rich. Afr's under load are hitting 9! So I checked the needles and they are BCA. I compared the profile to OA6 and I can see why it's so rich. The springs are yellow.

#49 _2ELCS_

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 08:15 PM

Looking good Adam.....maybe try RH needles and red springs and 30 weight engine oil in the dashpots..

 

Body looks the right colour also ?

 

Wayne


Edited by 2ELCS, 20 March 2015 - 08:18 PM.

#50 _COSH_

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 09:18 PM

Yeah, any of the OA6, OA7, RH etc needles will be a mile closer than the ones in there now. I've got atf in the dashpots too. Body colour is definitely the right one :)
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