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Mig Welders

Started by _cool72_ , Feb 23 2015 05:44 PM

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33 replies to this topic

#26 wot179

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 07:08 PM

Oh...and a 1mm gap is a bit to large on 1mm sheet, too.

I would keep it to a max of .5mm

A perfectly neat joint is fine so long as the welder is set correctly.

You could probably turn your gas down a bit too...that brown staining is burnt argon.

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#27 Rockoz

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 07:30 PM

If you are doing a long weld, dont keep welding in the same area.

Do a bit then move to another area. Eventually they all join up

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#28 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 07:59 PM

The tack tack tack tack tack tack version is how i do welds on 1mm as well.

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#29 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 04 March 2015 - 09:04 PM

Also try move a bit quicker. You will get less heat that way

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#30 TerrA LX

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 09:05 AM

Seems like to me you maybe welding in the wrong direction, are you pushing the gun (the wire) as it "dips" into the weld pool, pushing the weld pool along or are you dragging the gun along in front the weld?

Also, as others have stated, close the gap up on thin sheet and turn the heat down for good penetration without blowing holes everywhere and stagger stitch welds to spread the heat around having a rest in between each run to allow heat to dissipate.

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#31 _cool72_

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Posted 06 March 2015 - 04:14 PM

Hi Guy's, the couple bits of scrap I used were not entirely straight thru the entire length, that is why the gap is getting bigger.

Is it better to have a tight join, or is a very small gap preferable. I think this would allow the metal to expand without distorting.

I am welding with the gun laying back over the weld slightly and working towards the unwelded join. I had the MIG on minimum setting

Thanks

Glen

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#32 _cool72_

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 07:45 PM

Just an update, I have found that the gas regulator is very dodgy and I have replaced it with one that also shows l/m

Glen

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#33 SS hatch

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Posted 17 March 2015 - 09:34 AM

Practice makes perfect. Always when possible push weld as this keeps the welding pool immersed in a gas void pressure and wind will affect your weld to. Hate to say it but your welder only provides a minimum rage of heat settings. So with this type getting the right wire feed to heat setting makes life easier. As stated tack welding at different positions first to set metal. Then fill in allow time for cooling. An old trick I was taught years ago is to use a heat soak on the under side I've got a block of brass also good for filling holes when blocked behind hole to fill. If possible clamp the pieces down to hold in position not possible on car welding. Knowing what the weld will do in relation to expansion and contraction is a crucial element. It will expand then as it cools contracts set your pieces slightly off to compensate for final weld cool..stick to the spot method on small gauge material keeping heat dispersed over different areas even cooling off with a damp rag but remember that the side you cool will pull more due to cooling faster than the other side so cooling underside helps. A welder with full variable control makes life easier but does cost more eg Lincon 180C cant fault it for home use.