34 replies to this topic

[N/A-PWR]

Hello Engine Builders and Community,

 

My question is, is there a Cam Needle Roller thrust plate for the Little Holden Six or other Holden Motors?

 

Reason being, is I am going to use a high intensity/load/pressure roller cam/valve train in the next build,

 

and need less friction on the thrust plate. ( will need to modify the Aluminium Cam helical gear to suit )

 

 

In my Google searches, there are needle roller thrust races for Cam retaining plates, used in roller applications:-

 

Maybe use this one.

 

I do realize that a V8 roller Cam Valve trains, will have extra strain on the camshaft, but still will like one for the Six.

 

 

 

 

While we are talking about the retainer plate, has anyone used better retaining/fastening screws, other than the Phillips head ones?

 

All information, will be greatly appreciated. 

[N/A-PWR]

Great information DJ, thank's. 

 

 

Rocker cover bolts are a nice substitute for the Phillips headed screws they have standard.

[TerrA LX]

I do realize that a V8 roller Cam Valve trains, will have extra strain on the camshaft, but still will like one for the Six.

 

I am leaning towards a roller cam for my V8 and would like to know more about what extra strains the valve train will encounter?
I was of the assumption general consensus is that roller cams greatly reduce valve train strains.

[N/A-PWR]

Hello TerrA,

 

I was of the assumption general consensus is that roller cams greatly reduce valve train strains.

 

This is correct, and with the extra load of heavy poundage double valve springs/rapid lift, is when a helical gear is driven into the cam thrust race more,

 

so to reduce friction/heat, is to use a needle roller thrust bearing set like this:-

 

http://www.jegs.com/...roductId=753163

 

I like the 4 bolt one for extra bearing support/fastening, and is a cheap Comp Cam set.

 

This set is also 0.400" thick, which there is room at the back surface of the Holden Six Cam Gear. 

Edited by NA-PWR, 11 March 2015 - 03:26 PM.

[Litre8]

Probably less of a concern with a roller cam (no lobe taper) and straight cut timing gears/belt cam drive.

[EunUCh]

have used socket head screws on retaining plate before,was a while ago but i think they might need just a touch up on the head a bit for clearance,but it was only enough to take a bit off and did not worry the "purchase" of the allen key,no washer,nip up.

[N/A-PWR]

Hello Howard,

 

Thank-you for the feed-back, and best suggestions. 

 

 

To keep the Cam quieter, and to retain the Cam having a needle roller thrust race,

 

is to use the helical gear set to keep the lobe centres staying in their correct place.

 

Probably less of a concern with a roller cam (no lobe taper) and straight cut timing gears/belt cam drive.

 

 

Another nice idea UC,

 

have used socket head screws on retaining plate before

[rodomo]

Just use a torrington race from an ol' Tri-Matic Dave?

[N/A-PWR]

Good Man Rob ^

[warrenm]

Cap screws work well, so does rocker cover bolts, as has already been mentioned. I haven't had any issues with excessive wear with the thrust plate, but keep an eye on the cam gear walking off the cam, especially when using helical gears, it's not uncommon to push the Welsh plug out the back.

[N/A-PWR]

No worries Oldjohnno,

 

Point taken or make a herringbone Timing gear set?

 

I'd just use straight cut gears (the quiet ones) and a stock thrust plate.

 

 

 

Nice one Warren,

 

Will have to get the Titanium Carbide drill, and tap out the drive end of the steel cam,

 

so we can hold the gear on, or some kind of woodruff key lock.

 

I haven't had any issues with excessive wear with the thrust plate, but keep an eye on the cam gear walking off the cam, especially when using helical gears, it's not uncommon to push the Welsh plug out the back.

[SA EH]

Mine has been done with what looks like an Allen key headed drub screw Dave.

[WhaleOilBeefHooked]

Sorry for delay in reply Dave,  The Chev 6 camshaft has threaded end for that same reason, I got some grade 8 retainer plate bolts & also a cam gear to shaft retainer bolt / washer as pictured, which prevents even the straight cut gear from walking off shaft......

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•  $(KGrHqZHJCwFDOOO+I7HBSUvRrJ3Nw~~60_12.jpg   23.01K   3 downloads
•  5e.jpg   158.99K   2 downloads

Edited by WhaleOilBeefHooked, 12 March 2015 - 02:06 PM.

[N/A-PWR]

Nice Jonesy,

 

I have always used the standard Phillip head one's for the thrust/retainer plate, and I don't like them,

 

and is your grubscrew in through the gear, to the key or shaft with dimple?

 

Mine has been done with what looks like an Allen key headed drub screw Dave.

 

 

 

Nice Pictures Andrew,

 

Great feedback about the needed threaded Camshaft end, and those Torx head screws are the go.   

 

The Chev 6 camshaft has threaded end for that same reason, I got some grade 8 retainer plate bolts & also a cam gear to shaft retainer bolt / washer as pictured,

Edited by NA-PWR, 12 March 2015 - 02:26 PM.

[warrenm]

You won't need a special drill, I use a counter sink in hex bolt, machine a little off the shaft & make a hardened washer & a little loctite.

[EunUCh]

just a question on the rear plug being pushed out?..was this because of wear or did it get pushed out from hydraulic action?

have seen some people drill a small hole in rear cam journal (on slight angle) to relieve pressure in that area,never looked close at one but on the

four(shudder) the relief hole is in the block for "drainback"

[EunUCh]

missed that bit    had a shit of a day and came home early for a beer and didn't readit proper

[EunUCh]

sorry for the confusion....i had a really bad day and did not read the posts properly..because i came home early.  

[SA EH]

Hey Dave, this is probably the best shot I can give you without pulling the engine down

 

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[N/A-PWR]

Great News Warren,

 

Will do, and the Hardened washer. 

 

You won't need a special drill, I use a counter sink in hex bolt, machine a little off the shaft & make a hardened washer & a little loctite.

 

 

Excellent Picture Jonesy,

 

I see the method there Mate, and is called Scotch Keying,

 

sometimes you can see 2 or 3 of them around the press fits,

 

normally a tapped thread, another form of a key that stops movement. 

 

We also see the Scotch Key in pulley taper-locks, for quick mounting and tight fastening.

 

Hey Dave, this is probably the best shot I can give you without pulling the engine down

Edited by NA-PWR, 12 March 2015 - 07:41 PM.