14 replies to this topic

[TerrA LX]

Checked gearbox and or diff mounts?

[Steve TPF]

They aren't interchangeable. Different casings, Salisbury removes from rear, banjo from front. Mountings for suspension arms are different too.

[TerrA LX]

They aren't interchangeable. Different casings, Salisbury removes from rear, banjo from front. Mountings for suspension arms are different too.

AFIK the gear set is the same.
Maybe even the carrier.

[yel327]

If you really feel like it you can fit a banjo. But you have to either cut the LH-LX top mounts off and weld on HQ-Z sedan/wagon/coupe banjo top mounts (in the same location as HQ-HZ top mounts) or use a HQ-HZ banjo housing and shorten it to Torana width and weld on Torana lower mounts. Just use your UC axles and brakes (with the appropriately splined banjo centre). Hardly worth the effort though!

[Steve TPF]

I've got one of each laying around. I'll see about dismantling them on the w/e and see if the gears are the same.

 

If they are then I can use the banjo gearset in the Salisbury housing and have a spare diff.

[Bigfella237]

If there's no whine or bearing noise then probably all that's required is to reset the backlash, providing everything else mentioned above checks out okay that is?

 

Sucks to do in a Salisbury but certainly not worth changing the entire diff housing over for!

 

Just remember to take from one side exactly what you add to the other or you'll alter the bearing preload, and if you have to redo that it means pulling the pinion out, which opens up another can of worms again.

[warrenm]

Crown wheel & pinion will interchange but carrier is different.

[Steve TPF]

Warrenm: so I can put the banjo crown wheel on the Salisbury carrier?

[Bigfella237]

thanks a lot for your advise , a question for big fella, how difficuilt  is it to reduce the  end play in the pinion? too much play bearings worn ??  may be better to remove  & take to g m  dealer?  any chance of whaking tooth off with too much play?? haven't measured  not sure just how to do this in the car?? many thanks for good advise.m.,

 

First up, just so we're all talking about the same bits...

 

 differential.jpg   59.07K   3 downloads

 

The "Ring Gear" in the above picture is also known as the "Crownwheel". The "Carrier" is also known as the "Case" or "Centre", but where this gets confusing is that the removable centre housing of a Banjo diff is often called either the carrier or centre as well (unless you're American, I've quite often heard them call the banjo housing a "Pumpkin"... don't ask me why).

 

Not sure if your definition of "end play" is the same as mine either, end play is movement along the long axis of the pinion (front to rear if mounted in the car). You shouldn't have any end-play in the pinion whatsoever, if you do then you have no pinion bearing preload, which will cause all sorts of problems, the least of which will be flogging out the front oil seal.

 

It's been a while since I've been up to my elbows in diff oil but very basically:

 

Set carrier bearing preload (without the pinion installed); then

Assemble the pinion and carrier to set your tooth contact (by shimming the pinion depth); then

Remove the carrier and set pinion bearing preload; then

Install the carrier and set backlash.

 

YouTube is your friend for how the basic adjustments are done, no doubt there are hundreds of videos on the subject but I just picked this one at random, which explains how pinion depth and backlash affect tooth contact:

 

 

I can't remember if it is in a Salisbury but if the pinion preload is set using a crush-tube (between the pinion bearings), these are 'supposed to be' single-use only so you have to be sure that once the pinion gets installed and set that you don't have to pull it out again, otherwise you'll be up for yet another new crush-tube (although they have been known to be re-used ).

 

What else... oh yeah, with a Salisbury diff you would most often do all this in the car, so depending on your situation it may be easier to take the whole car to someone, or maybe remove the diff housing and just take that in, it won't make much difference to the workshop.

 

Personally I wouldn't go to a Holden dealer, most new car dealers these days only do routine maintenance stuff and subby out all the technical stuff like gearboxes and diffs, so I would cut out the middle man and see if there's a transmission shop near you?

 

Of course there's no reason you can't do all this for yourself at home with a little bit of know-how and a good workshop manual, there are a couple of specialty tools required like a torque gauge, a dial indicator and some gear marking compound, but I'm sure all can be found reasonably cheap on the interweb these days.

[warrenm]

Yes Steve TPF, that is correct.

[Steve TPF]

Thanks warren. That means I can actually get some use out of those diffs!