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updating the hatch


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#126 jeffblanco

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 03:04 PM

Great look! Well Done

 

Regards Mando.



#127 axistr

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 05:20 PM

I decided to do a weight check to see what the difference will be between the old and new brakes. The old Girlock system weighed in at a surprising 15.5 kg per side and the PBR was 8 kg. It looks like this driver doesn't need to go on a weight loss diet after all. Just got rid of a whopping 15 kg of unsprung weight, woo hoo.    

 

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#128 axistr

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Posted 30 January 2020 - 07:05 PM

I got around to sand blasting, painted and reconditioning the rear calipers, of course the pistons were pitted and had to order a couple of new ones. New park brake shoes and new rotors so everyfhing is new again. I managed to reposition the park brake cable anchors at the backing plates and now have to organise some cables because the existing cable has all been modified to suit the girlock calipers. There is only one cable between left and right with hook ends. 

 

Its probably easier to get some new cables and modify the ends to suit the commodore levers. I did the same to my SLR some time ago by silver soldiering the old commodore ends to the original Torana cable. Or I could go all out and try and fit an electric park brake system from a VF commodore. Has anyone tried or had any experiance with adapting an electric park brake system ? 

 

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#129 axistr

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Posted 25 November 2022 - 07:59 AM

When you have an old Torana your never finished tinkering with them. Decided to remove the Tremec TKO and fit a TKX into the hatch. The hatch is a SS body and still retains the original console. The tunnel didn't suit the TKO and never wanted to alter the tunnel due to the above reasons. 

 

With the TKX my drive shaft angle is much better. The two piece tail shaft behind the TKO box removed most of the vibrations, however under hard acceleration in 1st & 2nd the centre bearing rubber would load up and give a little knock as the bearing pushed up hard against the steel mount bracket. If it didn't have so much torque and traction I probably wouldn't have had this problem. The engine 383ci has 503 ft lbs of torque, So back to the one piece tail shaft and in with the TKX. The other thing that always bothered me was the diff ratio, great on Hwy economy but the tradeoff was harder to get off the mark 3.0-1 ratio. Decided to fit 3.5-1 gears, the TKX is also a close ratio box and suit the engine much better, now pull much harder off the mark. 

 

The TKX sits 25mm higher than the TKO. Had to make up a spacer on the rear mount as I couldn't bend the crossmember up any further. 

Total success no more little noises or vibrations and better to drive all round. The TKO is a good box but feels a bit agricultural compared to the TKX.  

 

Note. Selling the TKO 500 if anyone is interested. 11,000 km since new.

 

TKO box

 

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TKX

 

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#130 Heath

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Posted 27 November 2022 - 09:37 AM

Very awesome.

What are you chasing for the TKO 600? Might share it with friends.

They really have dropped in popularity and value since the TKX was released (they're actually discontinued now). But they're a great solution for someone wanting a tough gearbox that wants to save a few bob.

#131 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2023 - 01:22 PM

Really cool Lenny - any headaches wth the TKX? I am wanting to go the same route. Is it cable or hydraulic operated for you? How have you set up your speedo? (Sorry for the late responses, missed this somehow). :-) 



#132 axistr

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Posted 10 January 2023 - 07:17 AM

G'day Sam, when I originally restored the hatch I fitted the TKO so it was just a matter of removing the TKO and fit the TKX. The length, shift location, rear mount position ect were all the same. The TKX does fit much better in the tunnel than the TKO with no floor modifications. I also retained the Dello release fork and slave cylinder and modified a BF Ford Falcon clutch master cylinder assembly. The clutch pressure plate has a lot of clamping force so this mod reduced the leg force needed to the point I can now push the pedal down with one finger. The slave cylinder from memory is Holden HR, but sleaved and reduced the ID of the cylinder to get the perfect ratio. I use the mechanical speedo drive cable, (speedo reads 3kph faster than ground speed). Used my pulse pick-up to drive my VDO radio/nav system. The reason for going to TKX was for a better driveline angle. I could have cut the floor but wanted to keep the original console. 

 

If you click the link to my SLR build I have shown how I did my A/C and the next page the clutch pedal. 

 

Axistr's Father & Son LH SLR Project. - Page 5 - Members Projects & Plans - GMH-Torana



#133 SmacT

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Posted 12 January 2023 - 01:45 PM

Legend, thanks Lenny.



#134 axistr

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Posted 19 March 2025 - 04:27 PM

The hatch has been running sweet since I fitted the Holley HP multipoint fuel injection system in 2018. Last week the engine stalled a couple of times when the A/C compressor engaged and pulling up to a set of lights on overrun. First thought was to check for vacuum leaks. Tighten all the inlet manifold bolts, double checked all the vacuum hoses and all good. Decided that hooking up the laptop and check the manifold pressure would be a good starting point. It was also easier to check on the laptop than rummage through the old toolbox for a vacuum gauge. It took me five minutes to get my head into the program again.

 

I got into the Holley program gauge screen and quickly noticed I had around16.8" Hg/60kpa at idle, but the IAC (idle air control) motor position was almost at it maximum at idle with the A/C on. Adjusted the throttle body plate screw until I got the IAC motor position down 8%, Holley recommends setting between 5-15%. Did an auto reset on the TPS switch and all done. The engine (SBC 383ci) has a 234@50 duration cam and idles great at 820 RPM. I was going to wire in the A/C kick feature in the ECM but doesn't need it now. I've heard a few people say the Holley systems are shit, however I have found the opposite. There is so much adjustability. There is no less than twelve adjustable parameters in the program just related to setting the idle. Declay times, IAC motor speed adjustment, park position, lock position for big cam overlap engines, Ramp time, Temp change, load ect ect. I also use the programs variable timing idle control. The variable timing change at idle gives a very stable idle with large overlap cams, I can set the idle as low as 500rpm and still idles reasonably well. 

 

All my experience with the Holley EFI has been positive. First tune-up in seven years and took me ten minutes. Only needed a small screwdriver and a keyboard. When I was an apprentice and EFI started to appear on new cars I wasn't a fan, it was a bit of black magic and didn't have a good understand how everything worked. I went back to TAFE in the early eighties and did a course on electronic engine management mainly for heavy vehicle diesel engines.

 

Now I love TechKnowledge and EFI to the point I hate carby's. I didn't have to get my hand dirty or smelling like petrol, just a few key strokes. I can leave the car sitting for three months then lean through the window turn the key and starts perfect every time. Haven't fowled a plug on a cold start in seven years and so much better drivability. And there is an added bonus of better economy which I never really set out for in the first place. I suppose the next trick I will have to start learning is bloody EV's. Not a fan of them yet.

 

Why the hell does this site keep putting my photos at 90 degrees ? 

 

 

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#135 rexy

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Posted 19 March 2025 - 05:32 PM

Why the hell does this site keep putting my photos at 90 degrees ? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Car or owner on alcohol????



#136 SmacT

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Posted 21 March 2025 - 12:10 PM

EFI for the win for me too, carbies belong on lawn mowers. Ha ha, only jokes. Kinda. Each to their own, but I love how precise EFI lets you be and how easy it is to work on, as long as you're okay with the tech side of it. I can see the appeal of carbies (the sound, mechanical fixes, etc), but in 2025, EFI makes a lot of things that used to be hard, easy.



#137 Cook

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Posted 22 March 2025 - 08:11 AM

I'm on a camaro forum site in the US and a number of members swear by a guy that does their tunes remotely. Don't ask me how that works, I'm still trying to figure out how to wire up a sniper lol. Cheers Ron



#138 axistr

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Posted 22 March 2025 - 12:27 PM

EFI for the win for me too, carbies belong on lawn mowers. Ha ha, only jokes. Kinda. Each to their own, but I love how precise EFI lets you be and how easy it is to work on, as long as you're okay with the tech side of it. I can see the appeal of carbies (the sound, mechanical fixes, etc), but in 2025, EFI makes a lot of things that used to be hard, easy.

 

 

Ha Ha Sam, my lawn mower is actually fuel injected and same goes for my Go kart. The only engines that I have with carby's now is the Honda wiper snipper and leaf blower, everything else has fuel injection.






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