16 replies to this topic

[lc2dr]

Hi All,

I haven't done much work on my Torrie of late as I've been completing an auto to manual conversion on my VK Calais.  I've owned it since the late nineties and it was a daily driver up until 3 or 4 years ago when it started getting a bit tired both mechanically and body wise.  It had a cheap spray-over paint job not long after I purchased it, and following rust repairs and a few dings, the paint is looking pretty sad.  Long term plans are to strip & repaint it, but not until to the LC is on the road.  At the same time the engine will get a refresh along the lines of period Brock build - B cast heads, etc...  nothing too extravagant.

Several months ago I purchased a T5 conversion kit and have spent the last few weeks putting it in before the gearbox warranty expires.... thought I'd post some photos for those who might be interested.








After a lot of swearing and transmision fluid all over the garage floor, the auto gearbox was finally out.




The x-member supplied with the kit didn't line up with any mounting holes so I used a piece of C channel as an interim fix - it turns out they sent the wrong item... I will make a replacement once I've checked the driveshaft alignment.



Time to tackle the steering column & pedal box...



It now has an extra pedal!



Whilst the column was out, I took the opportunity to disassemble the temperamental ignition switch and give it a clean...


Whilst cleaning the bits I managed to loose one of the little roller balls, but found a suitable replacement at the local hobby shop....


Re-assembly with some Electrolube...




Once re-assembled I tested it - all good - even the ACC position now works!


Painted and rivetted the manual floor plate in place and fitted shifter and boot.


Re-fitted the steering column and modified the auto wiring loom for the reverse light / neutral safety circuits.


Re-fitted the console and changed gearstick / knob to a VN-VS one... much better as it has a slight lean backwards and looks alittle more 'original'.  I still need to get the console insert coloured to match the interior.  Anybody want a Hurst gearstick & knob for a T5?


Once it was all back together I fired it up and was greeted with a loud grinding noise from underneath - oh $hit!  It turned out to be the flywheel bolts rubbing on the dust cover!  I trimmed off the section that was rubbing plus around the hole for the starter so that the cover fitted better.


The car drives really nice but could probably do with a shorter rear end than the current 3.08.  Only issue is that there's now some drive line vibration under load - not sure @ this point if it's engine misfire or tailshaft alignment.

From what I've read on the net, the uni-joint angle for the front half of the shaft should be close to zero, whilst the diff pinion should point down a degree or two from the 2nd half of the shaft.  Anybody got any thoughts on what the angles should be?

Cheers,
Jeff

[warrenm]

The angle difference between the transmission to diff should be about 1 1/2° down. Put an angle meter on the engine sump rail then check the pinion angle,difference should be 1 1/2°

[DVS186]

You probably already know and have done this but the ignition switch has adjustable positioning via the slotted mounting holes so you can fine tune the ACC activation point. I did same as you years ago to get ACC working, mounted it up but still wouldn't work. Took it all apart a second time then realised when reinstalling it again you could adjust its position. Slid it down the column by about 2 mm and happy days. 

 

Also noticed in the pic of the gearbox conversion parts you received the front half of the tailshaft. Did you get the shaft balanced once you mated the 2 halves up? Also, check the overall length of the tailshaft as if its a touch long it can cause a vibration under load. Commodores tend to be less affected by minor tailshaft aligment problems as they have the rubber encased centre bearing which will asbosrb minor vibrations if the aligment not quite right, i.e. the alignment has to be a fair wack out to cause a vibration you can feel.

[lc2dr]

Awesome! Should be a fun drive with the T5. Absolutely love these things!

 

Thanks Mick - yeah, I love it as well.  I though about selling it several times but just couldn't... The T5 has made a massive difference to the enjoyment factor - just needs alittle more HP!  One day....

 

Thanks Jon.  Yes, tried adjusting before removal but the issue was that the switch would not physically move into the ACC position.  The ramp up to the ACC location had a burr on it that had to be trimmed away.

 

Yes, tailshaft was balanced when assembled and fits no problem.  After measuring the shaft angles and referencing the factory workshop manual, it turns out that the aligment was way out.  I had to raise the gearbox mount 6mm to get the correct angle at the front then adjust the diff pinion angle down to get a difference of 2^o.  End result was a massive improvement with only a very slight vibration at low speed takeof and zero once moving.

[Bigfella237]

Just a silly question Jeff, I know you now have the angles correct but is the phasing right, that is to say if the front uni is rotationally aligned to the rear?

 

Second gen Commodores (VN on) had problems with vibration on acceleration and the warranty solution was to adjust the tail shaft phasing.

[DVS186]

Sounds like you have it pretty close to sussed now. Could always play with the 6mm height at the gearbox and see if say 4mmm or 8mm make a difference.

Maybe also check the upper and lower trailing arm bushes aren't split/flogged causing diff to move when you put load onto it.

From left field, could also check clearance around where the extractor joins the pipes. They look like genie ones and they are real tight fit around the bellhousing area as you would know from getting the bolts back in and tight. Mind you, probably get a metallic noise with this as well rather than just straight vibration.

[lc2dr]

Just a silly question Jeff, I know you now have the angles correct but is the phasing right, that is to say if the front uni is rotationally aligned to the rear?

 

Second gen Commodores (VN on) had problems with vibration on acceleration and the warranty solution was to adjust the tail shaft phasing.

 

The uni's are inline which seems to match what's in the factory workshop manual for a VB - VK supplement does not add any further info.  Strange thing is I looked at a V8 tailshaft I have from a VL and its uni's aren't inline.  The front is leading the rear by about 10^o - no idea if it's originally like that or not.  I'll have to check my 6cyl VL as well.

 

 

Sounds like you have it pretty close to sussed now. Could always play with the 6mm height at the gearbox and see if say 4mmm or 8mm make a difference.

Maybe also check the upper and lower trailing arm bushes aren't split/flogged causing diff to move when you put load onto it.

From left field, could also check clearance around where the extractor joins the pipes. They look like genie ones and they are real tight fit around the bellhousing area as you would know from getting the bolts back in and tight. Mind you, probably get a metallic noise with this as well rather than just straight vibration.

 

Yeah, I was planning on playing with the angles a bit more before making the final x-member but I don't think I'd go less than 6mm to avoid flogging out the uni due to being too straight.  Just have to find the time...

 

Bushes in the lower arms are good - they were replaced not so long ago during a spring change and the cars been barely driven.  The newish adjustable uppers have plastic bushes.

 

Yes, they are the Genie two-piece header and a very tight fit indeed.  I had to remove some material from the dustcover screw bosses on the bellhousing in order to get the bellhousing to sit flush with the rear of the block.

[lc2dr]

I've finally finished off the conversion having received the re-covered console back from the Dashboard Doctor - they did an awesome job.

 

A new handbrake & shifter boot and it's all back together...

 

Now back onto the Torana.

 

Jeff

[Statler]

I have a soft spot for the old VK Calais. 

[purrlx]

Very nice job

[mr5000]

Looks great mate does would be nice to drive with a 5 speed now

[Heath]

Looks so nice. Love the Monte Carlo style wheel in these things, big time!

[lc2dr]

Looks great mate does would be nice to drive with a 5 speed now

 

Yeah, it's a much nicer car to drive now with the 5sp - just needs a little more get up and go... One day...

 

Looks so nice. Love the Monte Carlo style wheel in these things, big time!

 

Thanks Heath.  Yes, I too love the look of the wheel and was amazed to find them available as a reproduction.  I just need to get the rest of the car up to scratch to match the flash wheel. One project at a time the good wife keeps telling me...
 

[lc2dr]

It's going well... I haven't really touched it since the gearbox change except for getting a x-member made to replace the piece C-section.

 

 vk_xmember.jpg   266.55K   1 downloads

 

I'm still collecting bits 'n' pieces (+ $$$'s) for a re-paint, engine rebuild & a re-trim... Finding suitable replacement carpet is a problem though as nobody makes anything close to the Coppertone color anymore.

 

Yes, the gearbox is a T5Z Ford mounting patterned box which has a shorter extension housing compared to the GM variant.