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Hoppers stoppers installation


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#1 _Aidan_

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Posted 30 July 2006 - 09:47 PM

Hey guys put my hopper stoppers kit on this weekend. It was 100% headache free, except for putting on my wheels, as they foul on the upper control arm but that is another story.

All the goodies supplied, but still needed to go to the shop to get cotter/split pins for the castellated nuts of the stub axles and balljoints (or get nylon balljoint nuts) Possibly some grease off to clean up dirty parts and brake cleaner to clean rotors before installation.
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Old wheels and rims off, old caliper off, two bolts hold it in place, an allen key bolt and if I recall correctly a 5/8. Use some he-man strength to undo these :P
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Rotor off, take out the old cotter pin, undo nut and pull rotor off, take off old bearings and grease seal, throw in bin, sell/bin old rotors.
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Steering arm and stub axle off, two bolts hold the steering arm on 5/8 bolts and one has a 11/16 nut. Torqued at about 55 nm if I remember correctly, move steering arm to the side.. you dont need to unbolt tie rod end. To get off stub axles undo ball joint nuts, but do not take completely off the balljoint. Get a decent size hammer and carefully but forcefully hit the stub axle where it slides into the balljoint arm until it is released.. top and bottom. Then completely undo the nuts and remove stub axle. The shock absorber will keep it in place.
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Brake caliper adaptor plates on stub axles, done up finger tight for photo
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Stub axles cleaned up and put on opposite sides of car (left to right) so mount caliper on opposite side (to clear tie rod), Use a large G-clamp when putting stub axle back on to compress the spring to be able to do up balljoint nuts, do up as hard as you can.. will torque them up later. Steering arm then mounts back on, installation is reverse of removal.

Hub is installed, grease up stub axle with high temp wheel bearing grease, slide on grease seal and first bearing, put on hub, slide on second bearing, put on bearing cover/protector and put on castlellated nut. Do up until you create a slight pre-load, then back off slightly to the first available cotter pin hole, check end float.. a little is OK.
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Slide rotor onto hub,

***Put wheels back on rotate to full lock, lower car to the ground and slide under car to torque up balljoints, raise car back up, full lock steering other direction, lower down and torque up other balljoints. The cars weight will stop them from spinning. Jack car back up, remove wheels, continue installation***

Use some wheel nuts to hold rotor in place once wheel is off, undo caliper frame from the body and mount the frame on the caliper mounting plate, with rotor securely in place, rotate rotor and check to see if it moves centrally in caliper frame..if so bolt caliper body back on.. remember to put in brake pads.
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Install brake hose, bolt to caliper first, using copper washers and banjo bolt (supplied), run along caliper body, inside of stub axle, next to stub axle and upper ball joint bolt to original mounting position. Cable tie in place with some sort of protective cover (some rubber hose), to stub axle and to caliper body if neccessary.
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Bleed brakes and whack on wheels!

Any questions, ask. Aidan

#2 _[2_FLY]_

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Posted 30 July 2006 - 10:03 PM

Ah very nice man i`ve done the same conversion on my car. I notice they have changed the shape of the adapter plate. They used to be curved on the back and you had to grind the stub axles

#3 dattoman

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 12:24 AM

Yours was one of the first kits Gav
Constant improvement as they say

#4 TerrA LX

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 01:07 AM

how are they in bed :tease:

er i mean bedding in. :rockon:

Edited by ALX76, 31 July 2006 - 01:09 AM.


#5 _Aidan_

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 05:34 PM

give me some front rims and I'll tell. In bed they were a bit cold to me!!

#6 MRLXSS

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Posted 17 August 2006 - 02:07 PM

How much did they set you back?

Also i know noting about these... What Stud pattern are they? and wat have you done about the rears?

#7 _MAWLER_

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Posted 17 August 2006 - 02:22 PM

Nice one Aidan, great handbook there.

Also did/does anything have to be done about the booster/master cylinder anything like that or is it all at the wheel end?

Cheers,

#8 arrimar

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Posted 17 August 2006 - 04:39 PM

thanks aidan,do your wheels hit because of the conversion or because of some other reason.do 14 inch gts wheels clear the caliper?

#9 _Aidan_

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Posted 17 August 2006 - 08:03 PM

They cost 1370 delivered to my door. Its commodore stud pattern, but you can order them in any stud pattern you like. I have a borg warner 3.45 LSD in the rear with commodore stud pattern and VR rear discs. I have had the diff lengthed to suit commodore offset.

Torana booster and master cylinder are fine

The wheels hit my upper control arm because they are they wrong offset for the car (48P, instead of 25P which is standard torana offset). You can over come this by going a bigger rim or getting the correct offset. you need MINIMUM 15" wheels, 14's will definately not fit.

Edited by Aidan, 17 August 2006 - 08:05 PM.


#10 MRLXSS

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Posted 19 August 2006 - 04:18 PM

Cheers for that Aidan! :spoton: Good to know you can get it in any pattern you want....

#11 _Aidan_

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 11:28 PM

No worries

#12 _MediuM16A2_

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:05 PM

are UC brakes backwards? or are mine backwards - i got an LX..

(backwards as in caliper toward the back fo the car).

#13 dattoman

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:08 PM

All Toranas have the calipers mounted forward
Inc A9X and L34 with the vented discs

#14 _MediuM16A2_

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:14 PM

kk,
thanks..

i mite be picking ur brains again sometime soon dattoman.

nice conversion btw aidan

#15 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:34 PM

Aidan,

Can you post a picture showing the brake line connecting to the caliper?

Cheers

Andy

Edited by AndyCullen, 05 November 2006 - 10:34 PM.


#16 ilovea9x

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Posted 10 January 2007 - 02:42 PM

Who done the rear diff for you would like to find out

#17 _Aidan_

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 06:47 PM

final drive engineering in perth, o'connor

#18 _Aidan_

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 07:07 PM

Yes andy, the last picture of the bundle show you this.

It runs from the standard connection point, between the upper balljoint and stub axle, across the top of the caliper to where its bolted to the caliper. The instruction booklet you get also details this.

#19 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 08:01 PM

Aidan,

The reason I wanted you to post a picture of the brake line attaching to the caliper is that there are two ways it will fit. You can fit the line so that it is at 90� to the caliper or in line with the caliper. The correct position is in line with the caliper as the 90� position could result it the brake line being damaged on full lock with a large amount of suspension travel.

I figured a picture of the brake line correctly attached to the caliper would complete your installation guide. The hoppers instructions do not show this and it would be an easy mistake to make.

#20 _Aidan_

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 05:04 PM

Yep you're right andy, it runs inline with the caliper. Sorry I just presumed.

#21 _youngy_11_

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Posted 18 March 2007 - 07:18 PM

I just completed the same conversion, very easy.

Haven't fit any wheels yet from the sounds of it do you recommend 16's?

#22 _smokin-jeremy_

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 11:34 PM

I to have done this on my LH must warn if you have 15inc simmons you need 8 mil
spacers but have just over come this buy shaving off about 6mil on the curve front of the caliper then polished it and even rego love this mod if you do this make sure you keep it round do not squar it of as it will weaken it

#23 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 24 April 2007 - 11:45 PM

15" Simmons wheels have had problems with their nuts fouling even on standard brakes. The 8 mm spacer that Peter normally mentions will fix the problem, it just won't fix it legally.

#24 ilovea9x

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 01:59 PM

Does the caliper come close to the sway bar at all

#25 UCMatt

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Posted 09 December 2007 - 01:20 PM

Does anyone know what rotor is used with this kit? It looks shallower than a VT.
Redrilled BA?

Cheers
UCMatt




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