126 replies to this topic

[StephenSLR]

The latest from Peter,

I am considering getting them again,

========

Stephen

We buy our rotors from DBA and because they are blank undrilled rotors they made a policy to only do them in slotted or drilled and slotted type. So anything that starts from a blank begins with slotted as base model.

These rotors are fine to machine, we do them every day and never have any troubles on our usual brake lathes.

Regards

Peter

[TerrA LX]

1/ My diff guy who knows about all these things tells me that the Commodore diff centre housing is actually cast STEEL not Cast Iron and that provided they use the correct wire in their MIG welder its all fine. (he doesn�t use stick welder for this) He's done dozens of them and never had a comeback.

Difference between cast steel, less than 2% carbon and cast iron, 2% carbon or greater is less to do with the type of rod or filler wire used (in this instance at least) and more to do with the technique used, you are welding 2.5mm steel to something that is around 12.5mm or thicker in some areas, any engineer will tell you what problems that will cause.

FWIW I know people who have been knocked back on machining slotted/drilled discs, maybe datto can shed some light on it?

[dattoman]

Slotted discs are just machined like any other
If your guy doesn't want to do it thats his choice
They just need to use clean new tips
We do it at work all the time

[StephenSLR]

Does anyone know who in Sydney would fit a kit for me?

I've rang a brake and clutch specialist and he doesn't want to risk it and tells me they only do maintenance work. Dunno why he has a big sign outside the workshop with a drilled & slotted rotor with chunky caliper.

Preferably Inner West or North Shore.

s

[StephenSLR]

My car is lowered with K-mac springs to legal height.

Will there be any issues with the Hoppers Stoppers installation?

s

[StephenSLR]

I've spoken to a mechanic working on my car - day 2.

The head mechanic doesn't have any nice words about the kit to put it mildly.

They've done one side and on the hoist at full lock they say it hits the crossmember but on the ground it misses by a millimetre - I think it's the caliper they're talking about.

Does this sound right to you guys?

They have yet to do the other wheel and it doesn't look like it will be ready today.

Will have to wait and see how it finishes up.

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 21 April 2010 - 01:13 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

It sounds right if you have the Torana pattern hubs with the Torana offset.

I have the Commodore pattern hubs which are 8 mm further out than the Torana setup and the caliper is close to touching.

[StephenSLR]

It sounds right if you have the Torana pattern hubs with the Torana offset.

I have the Commodore pattern hubs which are 8 mm further out than the Torana setup and the caliper is close to touching.

I've ordered Commodore pattern rotors as I'm putting on Commo ute rims with the smaller offset 39P ?

You are correct, in a previous email from Pete:

It depends on what stud pattern we are doing. With HQ pattern we need to keep the track as close to stock as possible. This is our ”Standard Track kit”

With Commodore pattern the wheels are much deeper set in and so we deliberately move the hub position out 8mm to compensate, this makes sure the wheels just miss the top ball joint.

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 21 April 2010 - 02:17 PM.

[StephenSLR]

I've just had word back from the mechanic and all is looking smooth.

They are a brake and clutch mob that specialises in brake upgrades and the head mechanic had doubts about the kit with the caliper hitting the control arm at full lock on the hoist and the thought of using a cable tie to hold back the brake hose was just a little bit too Mickey Mouse for him to take it seriously. A call to Pete from Hoppers sorted them out & they seem to be happy - they warned me not to go around flying in the air with it and landing on full lock, lol.

Just a wheel alignment to go and all should be fine.

Another thing he brought up was that the pedal is now a bit lower due to going from one spot to two spot calipers and says if I don't like it a master cylinder upgrade would do the trick.

What upgrade would be recommended if I consider it?

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 22 April 2010 - 12:04 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

The effect of the AU calipers on brake pedal will depend on which caliper you had originally. It is the combined surface area of the pistons that is important not the number of pistons.

PBR cast iron calipers have 2 1/8" pistons (54 mm) (Area 4578 mm2)
PBR alloy calipers have 2.5" pistons (63.5 mm) (Area 6330 mm2)
PBR/Girlock UC calipers go back to 2 1/8" (54 mm) (Area 4578 mm2)

AU calipers pistons (2 x 42 mm) (Area 5540 mm2)

If you had the PBR alloy calipers (63.5 mm) (Area 6330 mm2) then the pedal stroke will be reduced as the AU piston area is smaller.

If you had the PBR cast iron or UC calipers (54 mm) (Area 4578 mm2) then the pedal stroke will be increased as the AU piston area 5540 mm2 is 21% larger. A 1 1/8" master would be worth considering.

Discussed in this thread.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 22 April 2010 - 06:19 PM.

[76lxhatch]

The caliper clearance looks a bit scary when you first bolt them on with the suspension at full droop, but after putting it back on the ground and realising the near impossibility of getting to that position while driving its not so bad...

1 1/8" master cylinder (mine's front circuit only, rear is still 1") made a massive difference in pedal feel for me with this kit, its so much better now.

[dattoman]

Corvette master cylinder 1 1/8 "

[StephenSLR]

Well I picked up the car tonight and I'm very impressed - after a few days of doubt.

The mechanics had nothing but praise after speaking with Pete, they spoke to him twice today, he knows his stuff and he actually called them to see how things were going - excellent customer service.

Pete also answered all questions I emailed along the way very promptly.

The car now handles much better and the steering is so much lighter - I'd say this has a lot to do with the 15 x 6 Commo stockies and Pirelli P6000 195/50's.

The braided lines have a nice feel to them, I felt them in the dark (night when I got home) I thought I may have accidentally been given the plastic ones but after getting the torch out - braided.

The pedal bites lower and is softer up high where it previously was firm, admittedly I did prefer more resistance higher up.

So a 1 1/18 master cylinder will bolt straight up to the SL/R booster? You recommend Corvette ones?

I'm slowly doing my car up and have to say it's quite fulfilling doing it one step at a time and noticing all the differences.

Eventually I'll put in a UC front crossmember, would there be much difference in the clearances, etc.?

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 22 April 2010 - 10:47 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

I would wait until you have bedded the pads in and re-bled the brakes before making a decision on the master.

[StephenSLR]

I would wait until you have bedded the pads in and re-bled the brakes before making a decision on the master.

Yep, Pete did tell it should firm up @ 1000 km.

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 24 April 2010 - 03:28 PM.

[TerrA LX]

The braided lines have a nice feel to them, I felt them in the dark (night when I got home) ...

Mwahahaha I had dirty thoughts but yes I do know what you mean, when you can't resist "handling" a new toy lol.

[dattoman]

i know this thread is for hopper kits but i got a 330mm break kit from UPC and it didn't come with instructions for fitting the kit
just wondering if there the same as hoppers fitting wise and if so could someone email me a printer friendly copy of the instruction to me

cheers Patrick

Ring Mr Meathead and get him to send you the instructions

Probably won't matter when nothing fits anyway.... hehe

[dattoman]

Almost everyone I have spoken to that has tried to fit one of these kits... on various vehicles.. not just Toranas
They say that something needs mods to fit... i.e holes drilled in wrong spots
Brackets not square
Something fouls on something

Maybe they are unlucky... but thats the info I'm getting

[76lxhatch]

Dummy fit the calipers to the front first and see whether you have any chance of them fitting at all, but I'd guess not and you'll have to swap the stubs left to right.