i cant help myself either.........Original plans were quick sand rust repair and respray but we started using paint stripper and thought why not plus its piece of mind knowing whats underneath the paint
LX Torana Rebuild
Started by
_caseyo69_
, Jul 31 2006 01:36 PM
62 replies to this topic
#26
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:00 AM
#27
_caseyo69_
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:02 AM
Plus u can also buildup the paint from the start and not have a 10 mm builup of paint on the car 
#28
_slr_5000torana_
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:14 AM
what size wheels do you plan on putting under those flares? you might need to cut out your guard if you want to fill them out
#29
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:21 AM
Ye I will be cutting them as i want to run something decent like a 255 tyre at the back on convo pros any tips or pics(would be great) on where how to cut them? 
any tips or pics(would be great) on where how to cut them?
#30
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:30 AM
go 265 on the rear mate, will look sweet it really will fill them out nicley, ive got some holden factory blueprints somwhere on where to cut the guard out but ill have to find them and scan them for ya
it really will fill them out nicley, ive got some holden factory blueprints somwhere on where to cut the guard out but ill have to find them and scan them for ya
#31
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:38 AM
slr_5000torana i see what you mean about the blackout following the rear bar, thats strange eh?
Edited by ALX76, 28 September 2006 - 12:39 AM.
#32
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:39 AM
Mate I would be ever so appreciative if u could scan them blueprints would be great thanks mate 
#33
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:51 AM
yea, that black line was there when i bought the slar years ago and when i resprayed it i just kept it the same, i just thought they were like that coz it follows a crease in the panel, check any lh/lx you'll see, i think ive only got the blueprints for the front guard cutout, from memory this is how they go.. grey parts indicate cut away area
#34
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 12:52 AM
excuse the rushed mspaint drawing hehe
#35
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 01:07 AM
thanks MAte o might cut them this weekend will see how we go
#36
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 02:18 AM
dont forget rear outer needs welding to inner after cut.
#37
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:28 AM
idont understand wat u mean?^^^
#38
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:30 AM
Bolt the flares on, draw a line on the inside of the flares with a texta, take the flare off and cut (not necessarily the full height of the line though, but at least you will know your limit)
Your blackouts/warpaint is a combination of LH SLR and LX SLR 5000, that's why it's unique.
Your blackouts/warpaint is a combination of LH SLR and LX SLR 5000, that's why it's unique.
#39
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 09:36 AM
thanks for that Heath i will do that this weekend so do i just cut an even distance inside the line all the way along and will i have and problems occuring like water leaking in later on
and will i have and problems occuring like water leaking in later on
#40
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 10:02 AM
And if I were to buy a new flare kit somewhere down the trick would it bolt straight into the old flare holes? 
#41
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 11:34 AM
This is what he is talking about, see the extra strip that has been welded in between the inner and outer pannels?
That's how mine is cut out. I am taking it back in a few months to be re-done as it is not cut high enough. It was cut out to suit the wheels that are pictured on the car. Those wheels clear, but now I'm trying to jam 26x12" tyres under it and theres not enough clearance at the top. I'm very happy with the job that was done on mine, its just got high enough. There's room for about 1.5"s to come off. You don't need to cut it out any wider than the inner part of the flare, but you want to take it as close to the bolt holes as possible at the top. You'll also need to cut out the part that goes behind the door and trim some metal off the door (behind the flare).
If you need any more detail shots let me know.
PS: Your projects looking great
Cheers
Marty
That's how mine is cut out. I am taking it back in a few months to be re-done as it is not cut high enough. It was cut out to suit the wheels that are pictured on the car. Those wheels clear, but now I'm trying to jam 26x12" tyres under it and theres not enough clearance at the top. I'm very happy with the job that was done on mine, its just got high enough. There's room for about 1.5"s to come off. You don't need to cut it out any wider than the inner part of the flare, but you want to take it as close to the bolt holes as possible at the top. You'll also need to cut out the part that goes behind the door and trim some metal off the door (behind the flare).
If you need any more detail shots let me know.
PS: Your projects looking great
Cheers
Marty
#42
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 01:04 PM
how is it a combo of both? It looks like standard LX to me except where it follows the bumper.Bolt the flares on, draw a line on the inside of the flares with a texta, take the flare off and cut (not necessarily the full height of the line though, but at least you will know your limit)
Your blackouts/warpaint is a combination of LH SLR and LX SLR 5000, that's why it's unique.
Marty, how is yours coming along? I havnt heard anything about it for ages
#43
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 01:59 PM
Thanks Marty the pics will help a lot just need to get me some cutting wheels and i'll give it a go:). thanks Casey
#44
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 02:16 PM
It's a combo of both coz it's got the black ass end on it like an LH with the black bonnet and stencils like an LX.how is it a combo of both? It looks like standard LX to me except where it follows the bumper.Bolt the flares on, draw a line on the inside of the flares with a texta, take the flare off and cut (not necessarily the full height of the line though, but at least you will know your limit)
Your blackouts/warpaint is a combination of LH SLR and LX SLR 5000, that's why it's unique.
Marty, how is yours coming along? I havnt heard anything about it for ages
It's getting there mate, I'm actually at the same stage as casey, I've started getting it in primer. I'm giving the engine bay the full bare metal treatment, but I'll just be sanding back the outside as i know its the original paint. I'm going absynth yellow with the full LX blackouts and SLR5000 stencils. Hoping to have the body complete by the end of summer.
Casey, for the test tyre, I reckon cut the guards and fit the flares based off a 26" diameter tyre. Just cut out a round peice of cardboard 26" in diameter. That is pretty much as big as you'll ever get under a flared torana without re-shaping the flares. That way if u ever go drag racing you can stick a 26x10x15" slick on (very common size), or run some big arse 17s with low profiles if thats what floats your boat. Don't make the mistake I made and assume that you'll stick with the wheels and tyres that you happen to have at the time. If you want to run it low you need to go as close to the bolt holes at the top as possible.
Marty
Edited by QIKSLR, 28 September 2006 - 02:26 PM.
#45
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 04:10 PM
Thanks again Marty i will do that, will post pics once its done
#46
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Posted 28 September 2006 - 04:36 PM
DON'T go cutting mad, only cut what you need to clear your tyres, yes it is better to trial fit the biggest tyre you will run, then bolt on flare and then trimm any excess you can see thru the wheel arch for a clean fit.
the outer quarter panel needs to be welded to the inner wheel arch panel to include strength from the cut and seal out road grime to prevent rust etc.
EDIT oh and when cutting grinding and welding try to keep as much heat out of the quarter panel as possible to reduce distortion.
the outer quarter panel needs to be welded to the inner wheel arch panel to include strength from the cut and seal out road grime to prevent rust etc.
EDIT oh and when cutting grinding and welding try to keep as much heat out of the quarter panel as possible to reduce distortion.
Edited by ALX76, 28 September 2006 - 04:39 PM.
#47
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Posted 30 September 2006 - 10:32 PM
A quick update i thought i would update this thread to inform everyone that my torana will be registered as a V6 when it goes back on the road for the first time as i have changed my mind......(again) and decided a 3.8l V6 commodore motor would go nicely in the bay instead of the earlier plan of a 253 as the V6 has about the same power and better fuel economy plus better reliability being fuel injected it will also house a very strong diff(unsure on type) and a t700 4 spd auto so i am looking forward to the conversion now all thats needed is the cash
#48
Heath
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Posted 30 September 2006 - 10:37 PM
Excellent, a wise choice with a unique touch. Keep us updated.
#49
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Posted 30 September 2006 - 10:41 PM
IMHO a 253 with mild cam will be just as economic and reliable than a 3.8 pushing that bit harder.
plus the look, the sound, the resale value and ease of upgrade to bigger cubes.
just my 2c
plus the look, the sound, the resale value and ease of upgrade to bigger cubes.
just my 2c
#50
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Posted 30 September 2006 - 10:48 PM
I already own a 253 so i might just do some work to that and give her a twin system and shit and it will go as good as a V6 plus it will be a lot easier to rego it
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