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Holden 202 marinized manifold problem

Started by _hayden.sawyer_ , Dec 10 2015 09:45 AM

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15 replies to this topic

#1 _hayden.sawyer_

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 09:45 AM

Hi
I have recently bought a ski boat with a Holden red 202, connected to a Hamilton jet output.
It has a Tawco intake/exhaust marine manifold.
The gasket between the block is shot and I need to replace it. There isn't enough room to get a spanner in between to undo majority of the bolts that connect it to the block.
Has anyone else had this problem with tight spaces? Any solutions?
Thanks

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#2 warrenm

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 10:38 PM

You may have to grind a spanner or socket down to suit.

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#3 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 10:58 PM

Yes, grind down a 9/16 spanner.

I've had a tonne of those manifolds and it's always the go

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#4 limo

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Posted 10 December 2015 - 11:50 PM

when you put it back on get some 5/16 nuts and tap to 3/8

I think that is what used to do with mine and the smaller nuts made it easier

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#5 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 04:49 AM

Or use 12 point nuts

arp-300-8332_xl.jpg?rep=False

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#6 _hayden.sawyer_

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 07:44 PM

Thanks for the info guys, I've checked around and grinding down a spanner seems to be the only real go.
Will this not weaken the spanner significantly and cause it to snap?
The smaller bolt size and tapping sounds alright aswell as the 12 point nuts.
When I put it back together I was thinking of getting some studs with an Allen or hex key recess in the end so it will make it easier to pull apart if I need to in the future. Something like this

https://encrypted-tb...fImcUsU8JlmrGNf

Any thoughts on this?

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#7 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 08:48 PM

Those bolts you linked are just cap head bolts.

The studs simply unscrew, then you can screw them in. Any bolt shop will stock them in various lenghs, you will find something to suit your needs, probably looking at >$10.

Six appeal runs the same manifold as you, I have no Idea how whoever put yourse together got the manifold on with the factory studs and nuts. Six appeal runs smaller headed bolts that came on blue motors at the very front and very back holding the exhaust manifold on.

Grinding down the spanner will weaken it, a lot. Dont use your good spanners, go to superjunk/bunnings/masters/wherever and pick up a couple 9/16" spanners from the $1 bin, grind them.

Cheers.

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#8 warrenm

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 10:33 PM

If you change to the 12 point nuts that Oldjohnno suggested, the spanner size will then be 7/16".

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#9 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 11:32 PM

Use junk spanners. You simply don't grind down the snap on stuff (someone should meme that)

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#10 _hayden.sawyer_

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 08:48 AM

Thanks for the help guys, I'll head down to Bunnings on Monday and get a few junk spammers to grind down. Then I'll try the 12 point nuts.
Cheers

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#11 Shiney005

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 12:27 PM

Only grind off just enough to do the job. The combination of a Chinese tool, and then weakening it further by removing metal sounds like a recipe for rounding off those hard to get to nuts. And then you will have much bigger problems.

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#12 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 12:31 PM

Na the spanner will break long before you round the nut off.

I have 1/2 a drawer full of $1 bunnings spanners that have been ground down or heated with the oxy and bent for specific jobs, all have a bit of masking tape around them with what there for lol, even still have my "BMW E30 tailshaft remover" spanner from years ago when I actually had such a car.

There surprisingly tough actually.

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#13 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 01:35 PM

Prefer the super cheap $1 spanners for such tasks but whatever works.

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#14 _hayden.sawyer_

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Posted 15 December 2015 - 10:12 PM

So I ground down some 1/2 inch ring spammers and got the manifold off, I also pulled out the studs and I think I'll replace them.
I belt sanded the manifold to get the grime etc off it and put it on a marking bench. Flat as! No signs of warping at all.
I bought a new gasket from Burson auto parts. Should I put sealant on either side of the gasket? And if so what should I use?

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#15 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 15 December 2015 - 10:15 PM

You dont need sealant.

But a bit of Holimar on the shiny side always helps.

The manifolds are quiet stout and not prone to warpage, as you found out, so no need for anything to extreme.

Cheers.

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#16 _hayden.sawyer_

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Posted 16 December 2015 - 12:54 PM

This is the type of gasket I got, it looks a lot thinner than the old asbestos one. I have some gasket paper at work, would it be better to make my own so I can get a better seal or will this one do?
One mechanic told me to get two and glue them together with three bond and put threebond on both sides when I put it back together. That sounds a bit extreme though.
https://lh3.googleus...DCn=w300-h56-nc