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Rear Main Seal 5L 304


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#1 MR77LX

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Posted 30 December 2015 - 09:11 PM

Hi Guys 

 

i have a leaking rear main seal. My motor is a Holden 5L 304

 

If i manage to support the motor while its in the car and remove the sub frame, is it possible to replace the rear main seal on my hoist without pulling the motor out ?

 

Would it be easy to remove the crank while the motor is still in in the car? 

 

Im trying to avoid pulling the motor out of my LX Torana because its been freshly painted and the wiring for the efi are hidden. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



#2 S pack

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Posted 30 December 2015 - 11:29 PM

Hi Guys 

 

i have a leaking rear main seal. My motor is a Holden 5L 304

 

If i manage to support the motor while its in the car and remove the sub frame, is it possible to replace the rear main seal on my hoist without pulling the motor out ?

 

Would it be easy to remove the crank while the motor is still in in the car? 

 

Im trying to avoid pulling the motor out of my LX Torana because its been freshly painted and the wiring for the efi are hidden. 

Only one way to do that job, pull the engine and put it on an engine stand.

You are 100% positive it is the rear main seal is leaking?



#3 MR77LX

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 06:58 AM

I have already changed the sump gasket while its in the car.
I'm petty sure it's the rear main seal.
When I fitted the motor to the car, the electrician came over and wired my electrics.
However when we tried to crank it there was a problem with the computer. He cranked it that many times that the motor filled up with fuel.
I assume from that day that my real main seal started to leak due to the fuel mixing with the oil.

#4 _Mint_

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 08:37 AM

if its a bad leak only way to fix it is motor out..is it a rope or neo type seal? if its a neo seal crank and just a weepy leak you might want to try Rislone engine and rear main stop leak it worked well for me

Edited by Mint Julip, 31 December 2015 - 08:39 AM.


#5 TerrA LX

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 09:41 AM

Should have had the lectrican fit a main plug to the engine...


As above, correctly diagnose leaking main seal and not manifold or rear cam plug or sump first.
Also check engine is breathing correctly, a smothered engine will blow oil out wherever it can.

 

Also, as above, try thicker oil (what are you using now?) and or a treatment.



#6 MR77LX

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 11:45 AM

im pretty sure its a rope seal. Ristone stgp leak, isnt it meant to be only temporary? I just had a look at the leak again and it may be sump gasket. How can you tell if its a sump gasket or rear main? The leak is coming from the back of the sump at centre. This is my fourth gasket i have put in like 3 weeks. However im doing it while the motor is in the car up side down. im using a penrite 20w60

#7 yel327

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 12:40 PM

Can you get access to a 2 post hoist? And drop the subframe with the engine on it.



#8 76lxhatch

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 02:21 PM

Sump gaskets can hard to get completely sealed when the engine is upside down on a stand, doing it in the car is more difficult. Doing the rear main seal is more difficult again, and a rope seal is worst of all... theoretically it can probably be done but I wouldn't even attempt it in the vehicle.



#9 _Mint_

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 06:57 PM

^^^+1 the 1 piece sump gasket is hard to fit but seals up the best imo

#10 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 07:06 PM

Penrite 20w60 is ridiculously thick, could possibly be part of the issue as well?



#11 S pack

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 07:31 PM

Clean down the engine thoroughly around the rear main seal, crank and rear end of sump. Wipe everything dry then leave it for approx 20 mins.

Now get a piece of blotting paper and carefully insert it to touch the crank journal at the rear main seal area. If the edge of the blotting paper that contacted the crank seal journal remains clean and dry you don't have a leaking rear main seal.

 

It is also possible that oil can seep through between the rear main cap and block mating faces if a smear of sealant was not used at installation.



#12 MR77LX

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 09:13 PM

Penrith 20w60 is that what my engine rebuilder recommended.
The oil leak is definitely coming from the engine sump. I triple checked it.
Your right Dave with your theory. The crank journal was completely dry.
Im going to buy an engine support bar and support my motor with out takin it out and do my
Sump gasket on my hoist.

Do you guys think the support bar will crack the paint on my inner guard due to weight?
The paint on my car is like show condition.

#13 _Mint_

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 09:37 PM

the Penrite HPR30(20w60) is perfect for the Holden v8

 

with the support bar it would be good idea to put some rubber sheet like old tyre tube or doubled up rags to protect the paint



#14 TerrA LX

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 09:55 AM

Oil should be fine.
Have you tried torquing the sump gasket to spec?



#15 MR77LX

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 12:16 PM

Yes the bolts have been torqued to 10nm in sequence. I bought new bolts, washers and sump



#16 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 12:30 PM

Do you have the correct dipstick? ie: is your oil level too high?

#17 MR77LX

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 12:42 PM

I’m running the original dip stick for the motor. (5L Vr commodore)
I have a 383 stroker and according to the dip stick it takes 7.5L



#18 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 12:44 PM

Right.

What sump are you running?

#19 MR77LX

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 12:49 PM

aeroflow



#20 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 12:55 PM

I thought them aeroflows held 6ish litres?

Is the oil level above the sump gasket?

#21 MR77LX

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 12:59 PM

Im not too sure. On my dip stick it on the full mark



#22 _Mint_

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 03:16 PM

those Aeroflow pans are Chinese made hope the gasket rails are flat?

#23 MR77LX

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 03:38 PM

yea i checked the rails, they were pretty flat 



#24 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 01 January 2016 - 05:53 PM

In my opinion, assuming your rear main isn't the issue. Your problem is either....

1. Gasket leaking due to improper installation or rubbish quality
2. Pan is a pile of warped shit
3. Too much oil

I'd start at 3 and work my way up the list personally. Aftermarket parts usually generate issues. Enjoy the CSI!!

#25 gtrboyy

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 12:22 AM

You're using vr commodore dipstick & tube with torana rear hump sump?

 

 

 

Dipstick tube bolts to front of head or middle?






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