52 replies to this topic

[yel327]

Certainly is, a GM 12-bolt. You can buy all new posi, Detroit locker, spool, wavetrack etc centres for them and any ratio you want out of the USA. Standard is 30 spline but you can go 33 or 35 if you like. You'll find a housing out of an old 1960's GMH assembled Impala or Parisienne, get it shortened to the width you want and get someone locally to order you some Moser axles. You can order axles with Ford style bearings and you'd also be able to order the axles in whatever stud pattern you like. You'd find a local diff shop might even put Holden ends on the housing for you and run tapered bearings like your LH has.

 

They are a GM diff but were GMH fitted to Impala and Parisienne plus also GMH fitted to export HQ Caprice an Chevrolet 350. Also optional for HK-HT 81837 manual as a dealer fitted accessory.

 

Won't be cheap, but neither is a Ford 9" today.

 

www.moserengineering.com

 

The other one you'll find is a Dana44 or Dana60. You'll find these in Jeeps like Cherokees from the 70's and 80's. Chevy Blazers and C20 etc had them too. I think some Volvos had Dana44 as well.

Edited by yel327, 02 January 2016 - 02:46 PM.

[Oversteer]

As big ugly and heavy as 9 inches are...... they are the cheapest option for decent hp, you can get a complete new 9" centre with spool or locker and alloy carrier for ~$1100, or a complete set-up diff with centre 1000hp 31 splne axles, VS discs ready to bolt in torana for ~$4000. Not sure your going to have that easier time finding all the chev 12 bolt stuff in australia for that !?

 

Other options.... hilux diff, or you could build a pretty tough BW commonwhore diff cheap, depends on what hp your planning to make.......under 500hp at the wheels go the BW or Hilux, over that 9" or maybe 12bolt.

[gtrboyy]

Volvo diff

Hilux diff

 

or search threads here for pintara/skyline diff conversion or even vl diff but differing offset wheels

 

Most of those diffs fit under & roughly a similar length.Not sure what model cars volvo or hilux used.

Search away if looking for budget options.

 

 

All depends use of car & budget as always.

[yel327]

As big ugly and heavy as 9 inches are...... they are the cheapest option for decent hp, you can get a complete new 9" centre with spool or locker and alloy carrier for ~$1100, or a complete set-up diff with centre 1000hp 31 splne axles, VS discs ready to bolt in torana for ~$4000. Not sure your going to have that easier time finding all the chev 12 bolt stuff in australia for that !?

 

Other options.... hilux diff, or you could build a pretty tough BW commonwhore diff cheap, depends on what hp your planning to make.......under 500hp at the wheels go the BW or Hilux, over that 9" or maybe 12bolt.

 

I agree, but was answering the question about NOT using a Ford diff.

 

A Moser 12 bolt diff built to order with Eaton posi centre, 3.73:1 gears or similar in whatever stud pattern you want is $US2220. This would come to you without mounts which you'd have to weld on. Plus another $US465 complete with GM 9.5" drums kit (all brand new). By the time you freighted that and paid GST you'd be over $AUS4000 and you'd still have to get mounts put on, and suffer the same issues LH-LX owners face trying to fit A9X rear ends into their cars, where you have to weld the Torana top mounts onto the cast centre.
 

[Redslur]

Personally I like the 10 bolt Salisbury with a 4 pinion conversion and billet axles. When I had mine built the diff shop guy said as good as 9 inch! Will hold 500hp all day!

[LS1LX]

An 8.5" 10 bolt would be my pick over a 12 bolt in a street torana, although I would still opt a 9" over both a 10 or 12 bolter all day long

[BIG KEV]

I believe there is a guy on E-BAY who sells after market type top trailing arms to suit Torana with a 10 bolt
And if your worried about using a "ford" diff in your car don't worry its only a after market copy
and if I was going to pay 4k for a modified diff like a 10 bolt I would spend the same for the 9"

[yel327]

I wouldn't use a GM 10-bolt, GM only used these up to moderate net power/torque levels. 12 bolt or 9", either should be as strong as the other when you are talking quality aftermarket equipment, 9" appears to be considerably cheaper.

 

If you are looking for a relatively cheap alternative that should be significantly stronger than a banjo have a read here:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...ff-conversions/

http://people.physic..._volvo_dana.htm

[BIG KEV]

WOW .....you guys make me laugh
if I was to walk into a diff shop and ask for a diff to be made to spec for my Torana ....theres nothing Ford about it
these days they don't go down to the local wreckers and grab one and cut it down to suit ....NO NO NO its all brand new gear and its just a copy of the same spec and sizes All after market gear ....yeah sure we still call it a 9"

[Cook]

Kev, I think you have hit it on the head.  I would struggle to identify one part from the other, so maybe not qualified to comment but, I am a Holden person and I didn't hesitate to get a 9" built for my Torana.  Beside it being called a 9" even the housing was made up of various new parts.  Which camp would my Moser axles sit, or my Truetrac centre?  I can understand if you are trying to remain try to original but otherwise, get the best for your application at the price you can afford. 

 

Having said, Todd, I do admire your patriotism, if that's the reason for the question. Cheers Ron

[BIG KEV]

Kev, I think you have hit it on the head.  I would struggle to identify one part from the other, so maybe not qualified to comment but, I am a Holden person and I didn't hesitate to get a 9" built for my Torana.  Beside it being called a 9" even the housing was made up of various new parts.  Which camp would my Moser axles sit, or my Truetrac centre?  I can understand if you are trying to remain try to original but otherwise, get the best for your application at the price you can afford. 
 
Having said, Todd, I do admire your patriotism, if that's the reason for the question. Cheers Ron

That's exactly my point Ron ...all after market gear housing ,tubes ,axles , bearings , centre

[Punchy]

read attached files about what it takes to build a real diff now days.

 

The GMH site went of line today and cached files. I cant copy and paste from here for some reason, and I ain't writing it out again.

 

I've also attached a quote for my diff

Attached Files

•  QUOTE A915-073.pdf   90.91K   70 downloads
•  My post about what it costs to make a diff as i cant cut and paste into the broswer.doc   26.5K   39 downloads

[rexy]

They are not likely to speak well of their competitors are they?
I guess it depends what you want out of your third member. I wanted a diff strong enough to cope with an engine making 485hp/480ftlb with a manual gearbox and drag radials on the street. I was prepared to source some components like the commodore brake set up myself as well as sort out my own brake line changes and do my own minor assembly. I bought a good low km centre from someone making a ratio change.
It ended up substantially cheaper than any of your quotes.
The diff is still going strong.