PWR Radiator
#1
Posted 07 January 2016 - 02:16 PM
I would like to know your thoughts before I make up my mind and out lay any $$$
If any one has a pic of this set up and how it sits would be great
Cheers Kevin
#3
Posted 07 January 2016 - 05:48 PM
I spoke again today to the guys at PWR and they assured me that it would fit with the measurement that I gave them ...
PWR Radiator is 70mm thick and fan is 88mm thick so a total of 158mm
And I have 182mm between the Rad support and nose of the water pump
So if I have done my maths correct there should be 24mm between the fan motor and water pump nose
#4 _LS2 Hatch_
Posted 07 January 2016 - 07:57 PM
Also there are different pulleys for the front of an LS. It may depend on which one you have.
Mine is different to Rexy's
Edited by LS2 Hatch, 07 January 2016 - 07:58 PM.
#5
Posted 07 January 2016 - 09:42 PM
Thanks for the reply Rexy
I spoke again today to the guys at PWR and they assured me that it would fit with the measurement that I gave them ...
PWR Radiator is 70mm thick and fan is 88mm thick so a total of 158mm
And I have 182mm between the Rad support and nose of the water pump
So if I have done my maths correct there should be 24mm between the fan motor and water pump nose
Is the radiator a downflow or a crossflow radiator?
I did have a PWR crossflow radiator with a 16" SPAL fan. The radiator fitted with plenty of room but the outlets did not suit my setup so I ended up changing to a downflow radiator with twin Derale 2200 cfm fans.
You will find some other pictures here.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 07 January 2016 - 09:42 PM.
#6
Posted 07 January 2016 - 11:01 PM
i might have this wrong but whats with running more earths to radiator.is it something about current,cant actually remember what is was
#7
Posted 08 January 2016 - 12:54 AM
Aluminium radiators are more susceptible than brass/copper radiators to corrosion caused by stray current from faulty electrical components.
Some tech articles recommend grounding the radiator and others recommend you do not ground the radiator. There seems to be more support for grounding the radiator.
They all agree that you must use appropriate coolant and test for stray current regularly using a multi-meter or dedicated device (Koolit Indicator). If you find current in the coolant then you have to find a fix the electrical component that is causing the problem.
http://www.aaen.com..../adradSTRAY.pdf
http://ishop.cooldri...ation_procedure
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 08 January 2016 - 12:59 AM.
#8
Posted 08 January 2016 - 07:12 AM
ls2lxhatch.....Radiator is a cross flow designIs the radiator a downflow or a crossflow radiator?
I did have a PWR crossflow radiator with a 16" SPAL fan. The radiator fitted with plenty of room but the outlets did not suit my setup so I ended up changing to a downflow radiator with twin Derale 2200 cfm fans.
You will find some other pictures here.
#9
Posted 08 January 2016 - 07:17 AM
Grant ..Rexy's pullie looks like a ls1 set upI will have a look and get some photos of mine tomorrow. Mine has a 4 core Ausie Dessert Cooler with twin thermos
Also there are different pulleys for the front of an LS. It may depend on which one you have.
Mine is different to Rexy's
My motor is ls2 but I converted all the bolt on's back to ls1
#10 _LS1 Taxi_
Posted 08 January 2016 - 08:13 AM
Rexy's is the same as mine (ls1).
I'm running a chinese $170 radiator and AU fans controlled by the PCM.
10,000km and no cooling issues
#11
Posted 08 January 2016 - 11:26 AM
ls2lxhatch.....Radiator is a cross flow design
I thought it might be as the 16" fan overhangs the Torana down flow core. The typicall cross flow core (2444 cm2) has a slightly larger area than the downflow core (2340 cm2) but more of the down flow core is exposed to airflow than the corse flow core.
I went with the down flow core as the location of the transmission cooler suited my setup better and I could run more fans with a decent shroud.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 08 January 2016 - 11:37 AM.
#12
Posted 08 January 2016 - 12:19 PM
what are you guys doing about the air bleed line from the front of the heads
I have heard that you can drill and tap into the top of the water pump
any ideas ????
#13
Posted 08 January 2016 - 12:39 PM
Nice rads! Expensive but the quality is there.
I am running the same set up on Purple. It fits nice with the 304.
Does it work? I don't know yet ..... but soon.
#14 _LS1 Hatch_
Posted 08 January 2016 - 12:48 PM
Andy I am planning on buying the cross flow design with just a single 16" 2000 cfm fan the 3000 cfm fan needs a 60 amp fuse and I only have 2 30 amp fuses in my new wiring kit ,by the way I don't have room for a shroud
what are you guys doing about the air bleed line from the front of the heads
I have heard that you can drill and tap into the top of the water pump
any ideas ????
I blocked off the rear steam ports (using the factory corvette block offs) and tapped the front one into the water pump housing.
Been that way for years now and works perfectly..have no over heating,etc issues at all.
(I use a double pass style radiator from Afco)
#15
Posted 08 January 2016 - 01:06 PM
It is common practice to connect the steam line to the top of the water pump. You have to wonder why it is not done this way at the factory.Andy I am planning on buying the cross flow design with just a single 16" 2000 cfm fan the 3000 cfm fan needs a 60 amp fuse and I only have 2 30 amp fuses in my new wiring kit ,by the way I don't have room for a shroud
what are you guys doing about the air bleed line from the front of the heads
I have heard that you can drill and tap into the top of the water pump
any ideas ????
The only difference I can see between connecting the steam line to the water pump instead of the radiator is that the radiator is that the radiator is typically higher than the heads so the system will self bleed.
I connected my steam line to the top tank of the radiator as it was simpler for my setup.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 08 January 2016 - 01:12 PM.
#16 _LS2 Hatch_
Posted 08 January 2016 - 02:39 PM
ok, so don't look at how rough some of this is, I have a few things to address, however this is the clearance I have to me radiator, and the arrow points to where my steam pipe goes to. it is taped into a joiner section I bought, it also has a sender in it for either my gauge, computer or the thermos. Can't remember which one, more than likely the fans though.
As I mentioned earlier, mu radiator is very thick and running the twin fans.
Hope this helps
Attached Files
#17
Posted 10 January 2016 - 06:25 AM
#18 _LS1 Hatch_
Posted 10 January 2016 - 11:49 AM
I used twin 11" Spal high output fans, and the steampipe setup too..
Attached Files
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