Jump to content


Photo

Stripping and painting a car


  • Please log in to reply
27 replies to this topic

#1 r2160

r2160

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 712 posts
  • Name:Glenn
  • Location:sydney
  • Car:2/71 LC GTR, 4/71 LC 4 'S'
  • Joined: 20-May 09

Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:09 PM

OK All

 

I have done plenty of searches and want to make sure I understand this process.

 

I had my car painted by a guy who just screwed the job. All the paint is now peeling off (even before I finished putting it together).

 

So I have to do it all again. Underbonnet, undercar and boot are OK.

 

I considered media blasting but I am currently swaying towards just 80 grit the surface of the paint and using paint stripper.

 

So:

 

1. 80 grit the surface, then apply paint stripper to the panels. continue to apply paint stripper and scraping off until paint is gone.

2. Wash the panels with a scourer and soap and water in order to neutralise/clean the panels.

3. Deoxidise the panel

4. Wax and grease the panel, then wipe the panel with thinners.

5. spray the panel with 2 pack Epoxy primer

6. after curing, spray the panel with hifil, black guide coat, then block the panel back.

7. apply paint.

 

Is there anything that I am missing? My biggest concern is using paint stripper but it not being neutralised and have the paint lift at a later stage.

 

Feel free to offer any/all advice

 

cheers


Edited by r2160, 21 January 2016 - 08:10 PM.


#2 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:11 PM

Have you tried getting a razor blade or paint scraper under the peeling spots and seeing how much of it you can peel off?

 

Chances are the substrate under the peeling paint is fine?

 

Cheers. 



#3 S pack

S pack

    Scrivet Counter

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,726 posts
  • Name:Dave
  • Location:Luggage Point
  • Car:73 LJ
  • Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:17 PM

If you use stripper to get the paint off I suspect you will have to replace any body filler as well.

 

What is it painted with, 2 pack or acrylic?

I presume it is 2 pack if it is peeling off in strips or sheets.


Edited by S pack, 21 January 2016 - 08:20 PM.


#4 r2160

r2160

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 712 posts
  • Name:Glenn
  • Location:sydney
  • Car:2/71 LC GTR, 4/71 LC 4 'S'
  • Joined: 20-May 09

Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:25 PM

Yeah, it is two pack. From the areas that are peeling, the "professional" apparently forgot to prepare the surface for the paint to actually stick . . .

 

So I figured the best place to go is start completely and do it once, do it right.



#5 tsn007

tsn007

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,019 posts
  • Name:Tony
  • Location:LIVERPOOL, NSW
  • Car:LX hatch, LX sedan
  • Joined: 25-April 07

Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:31 PM

Glen 

i would strip and bare metal the car completely, start fresh 

believe me i know what Keith went through

 

i know you are over it it, but do it properly this time and have confidence that a bare metal respray is the only option

 

cheers

tony



#6 r2160

r2160

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 712 posts
  • Name:Glenn
  • Location:sydney
  • Car:2/71 LC GTR, 4/71 LC 4 'S'
  • Joined: 20-May 09

Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:47 PM

Yep been talking to Keith. He has also spoken to somebody he knows about media blasting so that is the other choice I have at present

 

One way or another, I only want to do this once and do it right

 



#7 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:47 PM

Well in that case blast it and start again. 

Ignore the areas you hilighted above as being fine and do them to. 



#8 r2160

r2160

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 712 posts
  • Name:Glenn
  • Location:sydney
  • Car:2/71 LC GTR, 4/71 LC 4 'S'
  • Joined: 20-May 09

Posted 21 January 2016 - 08:58 PM

Bomber, the underside/underbonnet and boot were not done by this guy. They were media blasted and painted before. I have been trying to do the car as I can afford to



#9 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 21 January 2016 - 09:05 PM

So exactly what WAS done by this guy?

 

did he get the rest of it in bare metal?



#10 r2160

r2160

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 712 posts
  • Name:Glenn
  • Location:sydney
  • Car:2/71 LC GTR, 4/71 LC 4 'S'
  • Joined: 20-May 09

Posted 21 January 2016 - 09:40 PM

no mate, I did the underbonnet, underside and boot first. got the car on its wheels, motor/gearbox in etc while I saved the money for the paintjob. I then gave it to this guy to do the colour. It was painted but untidy. Basically it looks like he just sprayed the colour straight over the colour with no prep. So now I have to redo just the colour.



#11 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 21 January 2016 - 09:56 PM

You have just used the word "color" to describe what I think is three different things?

I understand you might not know a lot about this but really we all need a bit more to actually go off. 

 

The way I read your last post, you supplied it with the underside of the bonnet and underside of boot painted in an undisclosed product, but repainted to your satisfaction. Then you supplied it to him in something, possibly original paint? Or some kind of previous paint job in an undisclosed product in an undisclosed color to an "untidy" standard?? not bare metal, you have made that clear. Then he #@$^%& up putting paint over whatever was there when he got it which was?

 

Data out is only as good as data in......


Edited by Bomber Watson, 21 January 2016 - 09:57 PM.


#12 S pack

S pack

    Scrivet Counter

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,726 posts
  • Name:Dave
  • Location:Luggage Point
  • Car:73 LJ
  • Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 23 January 2016 - 05:14 PM

You have just used the word "color" to describe what I think is three different things?

I understand you might not know a lot about this but really we all need a bit more to actually go off. 

 

The way I read your last post, you supplied it with the underside of the bonnet and underside of boot painted in an undisclosed product, but repainted to your satisfaction. Then you supplied it to him in something, possibly original paint? Or some kind of previous paint job in an undisclosed product in an undisclosed color to an "untidy" standard?? not bare metal, you have made that clear. Then he #@$^%& up putting paint over whatever was there when he got it which was?

 

Data out is only as good as data in......


Yeah I'm reading it the same way DJ. The guy that fuked it up applied the 2 pack straight over the existing paint without any substantial prep.



#13 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 23 January 2016 - 05:20 PM

THe question is what was the existing paint, what condition was it in, does the vehicle really need to go to bare metal?

And by peeling, is the clear just coming off the basecoat? Is it even a metallic color?

If its a metallic and COB then he may have left it to long between laying down the basecoat and laying down teh clearcoat, but done everything else ok, meaning you only need to strip the remaining clear off, resand, re basecoat, and reclear, a lot quicker. 

We dont know, can only speculate/take educated guesses, I dont like doing either, hence I ask lots of questions. Sadly some people seem to associate this with not knowing my trade, aaaahhhhh. 

 

I wouldnt use paint stripper if you want to keep certain parts, particularly under pannels. Its amazing how quick  a little bit can seep around under a bonnet and frOck the the previously good paint. 

 

Cheers. 


Edited by Bomber Watson, 23 January 2016 - 05:22 PM.


#14 r2160

r2160

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 712 posts
  • Name:Glenn
  • Location:sydney
  • Car:2/71 LC GTR, 4/71 LC 4 'S'
  • Joined: 20-May 09

Posted 24 January 2016 - 11:28 AM

OK

 

The underbonnet, underbody and boot are painted, finished, done.

 

I installed the engine, front suspension, gearbox and diff so the car was moveable again.

 

I then gave the car to a "professional" to do the outside of the car. It was pretty untidy and given all the work, I want it to look new. They apparently forgot to mask anything, but the main problem was under the bonnet. I removed the engine/suspension and stripped it all and repainted it all.

 

The paint on the body is peeling off. I can literally rub parts of the outside of teh shell and the paint simply flakes away. It appears that they did no prep on the outside of the shell at all. Everywhere you see blue in the photo is buggered.

 

http://s323.photobuc...tml?sort=3&o=37

 

Given that I am only going to finish this car once, I figured the only real way to make sure it is done properly this time, is to strip it all off. The car was painted around 20 years ago, so the original paint is long gone. The car is a light blue, solid colour (I believe marina blue) which is the original colour.

 

I will never say anything about anybody giving me advice. Given that I post this thread means I dont know so everybody probably knows more than me.

 

I am tired of relying on people to do the right thing. I have had to have the diff done twice, front suspension twice, paint the engine twice etc all because I trusted people to do the job properly but apparently trades people think its OK to steal. I dont have an unlimited bucket of money. In April, the car has been off the road for 6 years because I havent had the money to do it.

 

However, I currently have access to a workshop that has a spray booth. It is somebody that I know that has shut the business so I figured I would just do the damn thing myself. I just want to make sure of the process before blasting away at it.

 

I hope that clears things up.

 

cheers and thanks for any advice you can give.



#15 _reefhog_

_reefhog_
  • Guests

Posted 24 January 2016 - 02:21 PM

Why aren't you taking the car back to the guy who painted it? Have you spoken to him about the problem? How much did he charge for the paint job?
It may be a genuine mistake that he has thought the existing paint was something different to what it actually was. Easily possible seeing as it was painted 20 years ago or more. Start with seeing if he will work with you to fix it, and go from there.

#16 r2160

r2160

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 712 posts
  • Name:Glenn
  • Location:sydney
  • Car:2/71 LC GTR, 4/71 LC 4 'S'
  • Joined: 20-May 09

Posted 24 January 2016 - 06:15 PM

The guy who painted the car is gone. I wasnt the only one he caught, in fact, the damage to mine is far less than others.



#17 SmacT

SmacT

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 979 posts
  • Name:Sam
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:LX 4dr 383, TKX, BW
  • Joined: 24-December 08

Posted 24 January 2016 - 08:39 PM

I agree on the do it yourself thing, and therefore do it right - it just depends how much damage there is and how good your skills are.

Somethings such as rust repair I have learnt myself and have confidence doing to a certain level. Other things, however, such as shrinking panels and gapping panels, I needed help from pro-level mates.

I reckon doing it yourself is great, as long as you have a back up plan if you get to a roadblock you just can't fix. You don't want to end up with a half fixed car. The bodywork is the hardest bit.

Keep asking questions, post pics so the clever dudes on here can answer you properly and start a build thread in Members Projects section and you will get there I reckon. Good luck!

#18 _reefhog_

_reefhog_
  • Guests

Posted 24 January 2016 - 09:11 PM

Well that sucks. Ok, if you're going to do it yourself, and do it properly,, you need to be prepared for a lot of work. I'm not trying to put you off, but I have seen a few people start a full repaint, only to give up part way through because they become overwhelmed with it.
I would start by taking everything you don't want painted, off the car, as in trim, badges, lights, door handles, glass etc.
Taking it back to bare metal is the only way to know 100% what you have. You probably could just do a sand back and paint, and it could possibly turn out good enough that you're happy with it, but sometimes doing that over an old paint job, you can have paint reactions which just end up being a huge pain in the arse.
If you do decide to go bare metal, I agree with Bomber, don't use stripper. Too much risk of damaging the finished areas. Media blasting can damage your panels.
The easiest and quickest way is to use a rotary sander. It's like an angle grinder or a rotary buffer, but has adjustable speed and a Velcro pad. You can sand a whole panel bare with one in less time than stripping or blasting.
I would do one panel and then prime it with an epoxy primer. Do each panel until you have the whole car in primer. If you're spending a whole day working on it, you might sand back two or three panels and then prime them.
Hope that helps to get you started, or to decide what to do.

#19 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 24 January 2016 - 09:41 PM

Solid ^ 



#20 r2160

r2160

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 712 posts
  • Name:Glenn
  • Location:sydney
  • Car:2/71 LC GTR, 4/71 LC 4 'S'
  • Joined: 20-May 09

Posted 24 January 2016 - 09:42 PM

to give you an idea, here is what is happening. In this pic, you can see the paint peeling off. There is no prep underneath and you can simply rub your finger along here and the paint peels off.

 

http://s323.photobuc...html?sort=3&o=0

 



#21 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 24 January 2016 - 10:08 PM

Good luck mate , i am doing a full respray at home by myself and at times it gets very over whelming, if i was you i would PM Bomber and send plenty of pics through and have a good chat to somebody who does it for a living , Cheers



#22 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 24 January 2016 - 10:09 PM

yeah that aint glued. 

 

 



#23 S pack

S pack

    Scrivet Counter

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,726 posts
  • Name:Dave
  • Location:Luggage Point
  • Car:73 LJ
  • Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 24 January 2016 - 10:15 PM

yeah that aint glued. 

No primer no stick.



#24 Ice

Ice

    Cool

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,204 posts
  • Name:Gene
  • Location:Galaxy's away from Ipswich
  • Car:77 HZ Sandman Van
  • Joined: 03-January 07

Posted 24 January 2016 - 10:25 PM

No bullshit how the frOck these guys call them selves tradesmen is beyond me
Go for it Glen you might even do a better job than the so called spray-painter (joke)

#25 _Bomber Watson_

_Bomber Watson_
  • Guests

Posted 24 January 2016 - 10:28 PM

No primer no stick.

 

Well thats a huge fallacy right there. 

No primer plenty of stick in lots of situations, the blue under the new blue is still a mystery product though so there is no want but to remove it IMO. 






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users