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Stripping and painting a car

Started by r2160 , Jan 21 2016 08:09 PM

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27 replies to this topic

#26 S pack

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Posted 24 January 2016 - 11:05 PM

Well thats a huge fallacy right there.

No primer plenty of stick in lots of situations, the blue under the new blue is still a mystery product though so there is no want but to remove it IMO.

Repainted 20 years ago it's probably an Acrylic Lacquer job.

I suspect you'd get a better result using A/lacquer over A/lacquer without primer but then again I've seen plenty of those blow over paint jobs that end up flaking off, esp from the edges where they masked up.

It's not uncommon to see the clear coat peeling off a 2 pack job so surely that indicates 2 pack doesn't adhere as well without a primer coat?

Edited by S pack, 24 January 2016 - 11:06 PM.

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#27 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 12:09 AM

YOu see the clearcoat peeling from a 2k paint job because the basecoat is basically a wax based binder with a pigment.

Only in the last few years has it been common place to actually add some hardener to the basecoat as well to give everything something to chemically bond to, but the reason the clearcoat peels is because it doesnt have the required UV resistance.

That or it was applied to late after the basecoat, but considering im guessing your refering to mostly OEM stuff from 20 years ago its the former.

I agree that its "likely" acrylic laquer. And in this case yes, a urethane primer over the acrylic or an isolator would have been required.

Mind, 20 years ago it may well have been 2k... It was becoming commonfold in paint shops by the mid 90's.

It could be a low baked enamel. They dont always fry when you put a 2k over them depending on a few factors, mainly how old the enamel is, what brand it was, what brand the 2k top coat is, whether the 2k topcoat is a urethane, polyurethane, etc, its very hit and miss.

But, scuffing a type of product and applying more product over it without primer is not only common place, but aus standard and perfectly resiliant, making your original statement, as I said, a fallacy.

Cheers.

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#28 _Toddyg_

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Posted 07 February 2016 - 11:41 PM

The easiest way to fix it with out going back to bare metal is seal it with a sealer and then do a wet on wet paint job prime first then paint straight over it just don put 4 coats of primer on you can get the sealer from any good paint supplies shop the main thing is anything you paint you need to seal before the reason why the new paint isn't sticking to the old is because when ever you paint over acrylics or enamel the 2 pac isn't compatible with it and the other main thing is make sure your surface is clean before applying any new paint give it a good wipe down with metho then run a tack cloth over all surfaces before applying any paint

Oh and don't let the primer or pain dry between coats depending on how hot the booth is generally 10 mins between coats should be fine at 38 degrees