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2 inch SU info


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#151 N/A-PWR

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 05:39 PM

Priceless if you can get them,

 

 have seen some sold with the SU's though, maybe because the seller didn't know their value.



Its handy to know that you can get the made up if needed. What do armours go for on the second hand market?



looks like Mick is right about, High RPM = short runners.

 

 

Edit:-

 

Did read that when you have flat spot problems,

 

 change the manifold length to a shorter one,

 

 and I wonder if we can make up a graph of all these figures, hmm.


Edited by NA-PWR, 20 April 2016 - 05:42 PM.


#152 N/A-PWR

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 06:33 PM

here is testing different trumpet lengths:-

 

https://nwmobilemechanicdotcom.wordpress.com/2012/11/28/optimizing-volumetric-efficiency-with-inlet-runner-length-pulse-tuning/

 

found this graph:-

 

Attached File  Runner length.jpg   54.78K   5 downloads

https://books.google...pm graph&f=true

 



#153 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 08:03 PM

Well there ya go, Didnt know you could get them new now. 

 

If there the ones pictured, there the wrong ones for us, there the early style. 

 

As for second hand, well I got my early style ones with a set of HD8's for $500

 

Just payed $300 for a set of later style Armours that should actually fit in the LJ's engine bay. 

 

Will let you know what early style ones on there own go for when I get around to cleaning them up and sellign them. 

 

Cheers. 



#154 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 09:55 PM

I have a set of armours genuine 2" manifolds if you're interested.

#155 warrenm

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 11:46 PM

I paid $100 for the last set I have, think I might have got the other set for the same sort of money.



#156 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 08:17 AM

I have a set of armours genuine 2" manifolds if you're interested.

 

Are they the early type, or the later type? I have been told that the early type have fitment issues under an LC/LJ? Apparently the later type just sneak in under the bonnet

 

Pm sent.

 

Cheers mate



#157 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 03:48 PM

Not a fitment issue with the early type, its a not a frOcking chance in hell.

#158 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 04:48 PM

I think mine are the earlier style , does anyone have measurements.
They look sort of like warrens pic but not sure.

#159 N/A-PWR

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 09:27 PM

Ole mate Craig (wot179),

 

 gave us an 8" Armour in the shoutbox:-

 

 

Attached File  20151210_204926 8 Armours.jpg   44.17K   11 downloads

 


I think mine are the earlier style , does anyone have measurements.
They look sort of like warrens pic but not sure.



#160 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 10:04 PM

Ole mate Craig (wot179),

 

 gave us an 8" Armour in the shoutbox:-

 

 

attachicon.gif20151210_204926 8 Armours.jpg

 

 

Ole mate Craig (wot179),

 

 gave us an 8" Armour in the shoutbox:-

 

 

attachicon.gif20151210_204926 8 Armours.jpg

 

Yep my manifold is the same length and looks to be the same angle .Is this the torana or early style .



#161 SA EH

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 10:21 PM

Early style, same as mine.
These have no 15 degree kick on the carby end as bomber mentioned earlier.

#162 N/A-PWR

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 10:38 PM

Found the other picture showing the two:-

 

Attached File  8 inch vs 7 inch SU runners 2.jpg   82.1K   19 downloads



#163 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 10:48 PM

Yep mine are definetley early ones.
Thanks for the info.

#164 SA EH

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 11:35 PM

Can anyone tell me what the difference between a "thermo" and "non thermo" hd8 2" SU carb is?

Buggered if I can find it anywhere....

#165 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 05:58 AM

There is a good detailed description at sucarb.co.uk. Interesting reading....

#166 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 05:58 AM

The thermo's use a sort of bi-metal thermostat to raise or lower the jet according to temperature.



#167 jd lj

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 07:12 AM

Does that have a similar intention to the temperature compensator on 175 cd Strombergs?

#168 SA EH

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 07:45 PM

Cheers lads, that's cleared it up a bit.

#169 warrenm

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 12:15 AM

Does that have a similar intention to the temperature compensator on 175 cd Strombergs?

It's more like an auto choke. 



#170 SA EH

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 10:27 PM

Legends, I'm finally at the point of fitting new throttle shafts & plates to the hd8's after cleaning, chamfering, deburring & smoothing the bodies.

Question is, do they have a brass bush originally to support the throttle shaft that needs drilling out to accept the new style bush?
There's definitely brass in there, doesn't look like a tap out bush though, thinking of drilling it out.....
Any thoughts?

I could post a pic but I can't be stuffed right now

#171 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 09:14 AM

So its only 1 year later, but I am finally close to throwing on my 2 inch HS8s...

 

Ive had a lot of stuff going on in the past 12 months which has slowed things down a lot- but the project was never far from my mind- just time is something I have very little of...

 

Anyways, ive ported my warnerford manifold out to match the HS8s, ive installed .125 jets with UP needles... Cant remember the spring colour- think they were red... they were advised by Midel re springs... 

 

Im just finishing up building the linkage arangement, and I should be installing the carbs in the next few weeks (I have a few days off work coming up over easter, and plan to install the carbs).

 

So, how far should I lower the jet from the bridge as a starting point once the carbs are installed? 

 

Also, I have some float spacers, and was wondering how high the fuel level shoudl sit within the jet tube once they are installed. I will be running 2.5-3psi, as per my webers.

 

Any advice much appreciated!

 

Regards



#172 SA EH

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 04:21 PM

When I fitted my UP needles I'm pretty sure I had the jets down about 2.5mm from the bridge. Current needles are down to nearly 3mm.

Not sure about the float spacers though, what's their purpose? I'd just set the level as per SU specs & leave it. If there's any need for float adjustment you can bend the fork under the needle & seat, but any adjustment of the float won't effect where the fuel sits in the jet tube.

#173 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 05:11 PM

When I fitted my UP needles I'm pretty sure I had the jets down about 2.5mm from the bridge. Current needles are down to nearly 3mm.

Not sure about the float spacers though, what's their purpose? I'd just set the level as per SU specs & leave it. If there's any need for float adjustment you can bend the fork under the needle & seat, but any adjustment of the float won't effect where the fuel sits in the jet tube.

 

Cheers mate- just to clarify, they are spacers beneath the needle seat- it in effect changes the height of the float chamber when you add or remove the little washer / spacers... I figured that the higher the float is set- the higher the static fuel level is within the jet tube... This is all just assertions though, ie im only just thinking that if the float level effects the level of fuel within the jet tube, this could be problematic if this level is too high. Just thoughts though, I may be wrong- I was once wrong in the 80s so it could happen again bahahahahaha :)



#174 warrenm

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 11:28 PM

I generally set the jet .065"(1.65mm) down from the bridge as the starting point. I have used those spacers that you refer to, but wasn't able to get the fuel level high enough, so a made some spacers to go between the bowl & the lid.

Set the fuel level about 3mm down the jet. This may be hard depending on the angle on the manifold.

You can see the spacers in this pic.

Attached File  DSC00015 PCV (600 x 450).jpg   79.38K   13 downloads

 



#175 warrenm

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 05:57 AM

Another method to raise the fuel level is to use Cooper S bowls, they have the mounting lug positioned further down the bowl.






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