154 replies to this topic

[Heath]

This thread has got some serious porn in it!

[red6]

What shop did you get this work done at? Also the part number on the muffler? Is it 2 1/4 inch? looks good to me and I'm up for a new exhaust at some point. I'm also in Victoria hence being so curious. Cheers.

 

20160601_145846.jpeg


Hm9c's are fitted. Exhaust shop want to have words with hm in a dark alley somewhere and apart from costing me a kidney to have it all fitted up its all good. They modded the headers in a few spots to clear so the car didnt have to be cut/shut at all. They have done a nice job and very happy what they did with the muffler aswell. Has definitely picked up some torque and horsepowers

[grumpy xu1]

Wow Dave, those stainless 202 headers look incredible, where can you buy them from ? Gary.

[N/A-PWR]

Hello Gary,

 

 not sure we can,

 

 but had a read here about mandrel bending,

 

 and it seems we need T409 stainless bends,

 

 to make our own:-

 

https://www.maperfor...w-these-details

[grumpy xu1]

Hey Dave, my friend who does the fabrication work including headers, merge collectors ect. Used to buy a heap of bends from usa, good quality & price, just have to be cautious about the freight price depending on the company. As usps ect, i know that he told me that he got like a $900 order 1 time & they didn't specify a freight company & it cost him around $700 for delivery as compared to about $250 with someone else. Lesson learned financially. He would be the 1 to ask for you if you want? He said that amount of different bends they make is mind blowing. 1 of my other friends bought a heap left over from an exhaust shop like a 100 liter box of mild steel 3" & some 2.5" mandrel bends slightly dented for about $200, which built quite a few turbo exhaust's for all their hilux's, cruisers ect. Would be a long time before i need an exhaust. But i have an idea of doing a set of extractors about the length of the gtr headers but with even length tubes, so it could look a bit more factory. Would have to put engine ect back in the car to build obviously. & thinking would be best before painting oh poop, what a pain ! But it may pick me up a little bit more power,

[grumpy xu1]

So Dave, here's my thoughts, so far on my xu1 engine, let's forget headers for the time. Crank appears fine, thinking of keeping the original red crank (undecided) starfire rods full balance arp rod bolts, stud girdle & arp studs (sonic) most probably a camtech hydraulic because i think a new cam would be hopefully as good as a solid, & i think the adjustment regularly is a pain. My thoughts are a 528a, anti pump ups, good pushrods obviously, sleved block to 0 hypatechnic pistons, file back rings 10.5 - 11 comp, ferera xu1 valves & guides, have yt rollers 1.5 but wondering about if there would be a gain by running 1.6 or 1.65 on the intakes posi locks, guide plates, ported xu1 intake manifold, 1.75 cds's factory obviously with some internal mods, ported gmh oil pump. Blue print everthing, regraphed original distributor, romac steel balancer, possibly drill crank snout if necessary only. Xtreme chrome moly flywheel & clutch arp bolts, probably dowl flywheel if necessary? Original box rebuilt factory gear set, maybe internal gearbox balance. 3.36 ratio rebuilt factory lsd. I want it to look totally stock externally, your thoughts or others on this combination please? I am not intending to rev it past 6,000 & i have a faster v8 if i need to go crazy, so i wouldn't treat a genuine car badly, just want it to rev fast, no dead spots, but mainly just be reliable. Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

Hey Dave, as i read it 304 s/s would actually be better mate, jim uses 304, but he said you have to make sure that you get a decent wall thickness, otherwise it can crack & i used to work with a few exhaust fitters who said the same about some cheap ls s/s extractors cracking. I want jim to build me a stainless steel system for the black ss eventually with some magnaflow cats & hooker mufflers like i have on my cluby, stainless sounds tuff on a camed ls engine or a stroker v8, he's done quite a few systems that sound awesome. Of course they're not on basic engines. His old 383 is now in a 57 chev making around 600fwhp n/a full stainless system edelbrock mufflers ect. You have to hear this car to believe the sound, but it would excite a bank manager mate. Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

Ah yes bomber, that would be why it's going to be sleeved mate. I think 1 of the rods is a bit sus to mate, so that was the reason behind the starfires. But i do welcome opinions on the matter. Thoughts on the rest though ? Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

Sorry bomber, just saw you said that there's less vibrations from the red rods over the starfires, could you please explain to me why that is so ? Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

& bomber ect, would mind also commenting on the oil pump question i posted today above this 1, drill press is ready if i read it accurately, can't put metal back in after you drill it out ! Gary.

[N/A-PWR]

Hi there Gary,

 

Good information about your exaust contact, and designing your own set.

 

Seen that your are right about the 304, and T409 is the cheap crap,

 

 as was looking on phone at work today, and got that wrong.

 

I wonder if 316 is better, or it causes more cracks?

 

I don't know yet, but looking the goods to creating a real S/S set for the Six.

 

 

 

Extractor thread has to deal with engine components too

 

 

I just had a read of your new set-up, and looks the goods.

 

The standard GMH Oil Pump is fine,

 

 as the JP High O.P. puts all the oil in the tappet cover at high revs,

 

 unless we have an external return hose line.

 

Zero bores are good for very high compression, but 60 thou is more cubes.

 

Don't worry about using 1.65 to 1 rockers,

 

 and has been done to have 1.6 on inlet,

 

 but a camshaft designed lift can deal with what a rocker offers in anycase.

 

Doweled flywheel is good, as to 3.36 LSD.

 

 

As for other combinations:-

 

- Huge RPM Cam

 

- Big port head

 

- 9/16" diametre pushrods

 

- Triple HSR40 carbs

 

- standard points ignition

 

- standard bottom end parts

 

- E85 fuel

 

- LSD 2.78:1 Banjo

 

- dual clutch plates

 

- plenty of spare blocks

 

 

As for the New Tuned S/S extractors for the RAT, they will be 31" of 5/8" primaries, 3 into 1, 2 off,

 

then 15" of 2 1/8" secondaries x 2 off, then a balance void between the two sets for twin 2 1/2" side pipes.

Edited by N/A-PWR, 03 September 2016 - 09:13 PM.

[grumpy xu1]

Hey Dave, im not interested in high compression mate, 11.0 -1 ish seems good to me i want to be able to pull in fill up with 95 or 98, you can get 95 everywhere. As you can guess yes the head will ported, as for the oil pump, i wouldn't go hi volume in a red 6 as I've never seen 1 without a heap of oil up on the rocker gear ect. I've seen them with oil still sitting everywhere under the rocker cover & haven't been started for years. Jim built a 202 cube 186 headed engine years ago & when we put it in a lc it ran 13.7 on street tyres with wheel spin, with 3.36 gears, i was surprised at how fast it would rev. If mine reved that fast i'll be happy + 13.7 is quicker than a ho ! & only 1.2 seconds slower than my ss on street tyres. Trying to get him to remember engine specs atm. Every xtreme clutch ive used has been brilliant mate, so it will take a lot to get me to buy a different brand atm. Got 1 set up for a friend's hq tonner, xu1 specish 202 mix of red blue & black parts, don't ask me why, anyway it destroyed the previous clutch badly, put 1 in & he rang & said, this car has never been nice to drive & im rapped at how good it now is ! Do you think that i will have to bolt the balancer on ? I'm trying to stray from any external mods. The custom headers might be a consideration though. The only reason for the thoughts on rocker change, was i have a full set of yt, but i have someone who might want to half the set, & ive seen the 1.6 & 1.5 ratio thing done a few times, so if there's an advantage of the 1.6 on the intake might be a good idea. Was surprised how bomber said red rod's cause less vibrations. But I'm sure it's got 1 rod i didn't like. Are 186 rods same length & big & little end size as 202 ? If so i think me brother in law has a set left over from a 186 build ages ago. Gary.

[N/A-PWR]

13.7 sec/quarter is easy done in 3 gears, 7500 rpm manual m20 slam change and a 3.36:1 diff = 100 mph.

 

9" pushrods for the 186 head, whether on a 202 or 186

Yep, rev pick-up is the key

Spooling in otherwords

[grumpy xu1]

Sorry Dave, i meant are the con rods the same for 186 & 202 red engine mate. I will buy brand new push rods mate there around $150, still waiting on a reply about the oil pump. Would set tolerances and wrap up & pack away if I knew clearances & if that smaller hole that feeds the block just had to be drilled to 1/2", are you doing your own head work Dave ? I have a friend who said he's built his own flow bench now & said it only cost him $250 to do, haven't been to look at it, but boy that sounds handy at that price mate. Gary.

[N/A-PWR]

that is the difference, 186 shorter, 202 longer mate

standard oil pump is still good, head already done from 1984

[grumpy xu1]

Oh forgot to ask does any know the best place to say like a 20 kg of garnet, otherwise i'll see if a blasting shop will let me buy 20 kg, my neighbour has a sand blaster like a wheel size super cheap type job he said i could use, i assume they'd hold the 20 kg, he can't remember. Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

I thought that the difference was only in the crankshaft stroke mate, not conrod size ? Gary.

[N/A-PWR]

yep, shorter stroke longer rods vs longer stroke shorter rods - same block centres

shop around for garnet

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edit:-

 

 then we have piston pin higher height for even longer rods,

 

 which is good for windage, and lighter pistons

 

 

 

that is  a different story all together - chasing between 10ths and seconds

Edited by N/A-PWR, 04 September 2016 - 12:06 AM.

[grumpy xu1]

Interesting that your keeping your head, still from 1984. Wondering what the seats will be like running unleaded ? & the valves for that matter ? We we're thinking of pulling the yt valves out of my xu1 head & putting them into my friends gtr head recently & was wondering what they'd be like to reuse & how they'd be with premium unleaded fuel ? As i will go the ferera's. Don't know if i should fly cut the block yet either, i know the valves will clear I'm meaning unshrouding purposes. & when you mentioned that you may fit twin exhausts how will that sound as I've heard some in the past on 202,265,250 ect that didn't sound very nice, but that's only my opinion mate. Just like hm headers on 202 with no front resonator sound a bit fartish as well. Gary.

[grumpy xu1]

So what about the 173 conrods for size Dave ? I can probably get 1 of them a (173) complete easily, failing that my friend has a set of star fires i can buy & just go that way. Gary.

[Ice]

Go the Starfires Gary

Im using them in a current 186 build to

[grumpy xu1]

When you talk about windage, i can't remember where i saw it but apparently the ba ford 4 litre crank scraper set up supposedly is an almost direct bolt on fit & works really well apparently. Couldn't tell the ford boys though. Gary.

[N/A-PWR]

yep, change around valves in head to suit clearances, then renew and seat the new one's,

 

  stage 5 head still the same super breather, yet to test cfm coming soon.

 

Fly cut is for bigger valves, and you don't need that, as too unleaded fuel don't damage the cast iron and valves.

 

 

 

as for the 173, I guess the stroke is the same but smaller bore

 

 

 

 

 

Edit:-

 

Ford cough, has the same centres, so anything is possible Gary.

 

 but real windage comes from the longer conrod,

 

 which puts less stress on the crank pushing the compression stroke.

Edited by N/A-PWR, 04 September 2016 - 12:36 AM.