145 replies to this topic

[Lc69]

Were you told it is a fine spline Banjo by the previous owner? The std banjo for an LC trimatic is 2.78:1 ratio and course spline.

Diff is in fact 2.78, so I assume it's probably coarse spline.
It may be easier to build a new diff as I'm changing to disc brake with f$rd stud pattern.

[LJ RB30]

I can supply it as a kit for u to assemble using proven combinations. Im down in sydney and can frieght it to you in qld
I also have a brand new yes brand new complete yella terra casting 12 port iron head for sale if yr interested.

Mick do you have a website?

[Lc69]

An engine like this isn't what you want as your first build - ideally you'd do a few cheap and simple engines first to get experience in building and tuning. Then once you've mastered building sweet-running, solid and leak free engines then you could attack more ambitious and expensive projects like this with confidence.
 
I realise a Holden six is about as simple as it gets but there's a classic example on this very forum of how badly it can turn out if your ambitions exceed your abilities. In other words, get someone competent to check everything you do every step of the way; it's not something you can learn from YouTube.

Point taken, the YouTube comment was a bit younger in cheek.

Doh tongue in cheek

Ahh spell check

[Lc69]

Sounds like a plan.

So some guys built a 202' with a 9 port head and triple 175's in the 70's
240hp, 13sec 1/4
They won some races too.

That's sounds like a proven combo to me.

I'm assuming a modern equivalent to this can only get better.

[dattoman]

Just don't build a grumpy pig you don't want to drive

[SA EH]

That was probably a good thing in the seventies although i doubt if you could get a real 240hp with 1 3/4" carburettors.

Exactly what I've been trying to disprove with my engine Mick.

[Lc69]

That was probably a good thing in the seventies although i doubt if you could get a real 240hp with 1 3/4" carburettors.
Nowadays you can get thst power with a 12 port head and improved camshaft designs and have low down torque as well .All depends on yr budget and your requirements.

Anything that can achieve a 1/4 time inside the 13sec bracket would be awesome.
Final HP figures are not really important, I'm not going to enter any competitions or be framing the dyno graph.
I'm just guessing 200+ is about where I want to be?
My every day car is something like 220hp, 260ft/lb and weights probably 500kg more than the LC.
So anything in that ball park sounds like it would be enough fun for now.

Low down torque and drivability are important, I do want to be able to go for a Sunday drive without too much effort.
One of the reasons I was originally thinking a mild baby V8 would be a good way to go.

I'm open to 9 or 12 port, SU's, Webbers.....It really comes down to the whole carb/head package I guess.
I'm not worried about a few $100 bucks either way, just what provides the best result.
I wouldn't want to save $500 bucks and miss out on a good combo. I'd rather stretch the build out and get it right.

[SA EH]

Too shay! Modified to buggery mate.

 

Can't say it's totally street friendly either, but just proving what can be done 

[Lc69]

The same combo will run with 500 holley or multiple carbs so i would suggest to run the 2 barrel first until you get it sorted and build your confidence with it.
So first locate a std bore 3.3 black long engine, this will have all the basic parts you need.
What transmission diff and tyres are u using.

I have started looking. I assume a black or blue will give the same result?

Currently have a trimatic, but was thinking of changing to Aussie 4 speed.
I've changed my mind on this a few times because I'm not sure I want to do the conversion.
I'll drive around once the brake upgrade is done and see how I feel about the Auto.

Currently runnin 205/40r17 but have considered trying a 215.

[SA EH]

PM sent Mick

[Lc69]

I would suggest to keep the trimatic and have it built with a shift kit and a 3500 converter , diff gears will need to be 3.9 to do well at the drags and keep the engine in its best torque range. You could use a 3.55 but this would compromise your ET's.
Blue short motor is the same but you will need a black head , a YT alloy head is best choice if cost isnt a problem.

I'm not that interested in doing drags. Maybe once for kicks.
Whichever combo is best for general weekend drives.

Those alloy heads look nice. Do they still need port work or are the plug and play?

[r2160]

Not sure whether your budget would permit it, but what about weber-type throttle bodies and injection?

 

Modern with the old school look.

 

Maybe something like this:   http://www.carbureti...ylinjection.asp

 

Or if you use the 12 port head, what about the injection that comes on the VKs

 

cheers

Glenn

Edited by r2160, 04 April 2016 - 12:49 PM.

[LC-GTR-1969]

If you are dead set about wanting webers, dellortos are very similar and you can pick up a set second hand for a bit over a grand, so if they are in good condition they will be only marginally more expensive than a good SU set. The jets for webers/ dellortos are the killer, as they are dear, but if you take to tuner, the guy I use has all the jets and can substitute what he needs without needing to buy stacks of jets to fine tune things. However, in all honesty, anyone who has worked with webers on a 202 should be able to get you quite close from an educated guess with jetting. The webers would be better on 12 port head IMO, however as others have said, if you go 9 port, sus will do the job well for a fairly cheap cost.

[jd lj]

For what you want to do with the car a set of triple Strombergs or su's may be a good consideration. There both very simple in there operation and tuning compared to Webers and with the Strombergs most of the extra parts to complete the set up are available.

Most people's weber set up's are very makeshift in my opinion. To do it properly you may need to be prepared and capable of designing and fabricating your own brackets and bits and pieces.

If you do choose webers it may be worth considering a set of 40dcoe's instead of the usual 45dcoe's. The 40dcoe's seem to be cheaper and are still adequate for a street driven 202.