22 replies to this topic

[ls2lxhatch]

The factory accelerator pedal bolt has a threaded section then a nut built into the bolt then another threaded section. Tightening the bolt to the firewall bracket does not effect the tightness of the pedal. The pedal can be removed without removing the bolt from the firewall bracket.
 
You can see the permanent nut on the bolt in this picture .

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 01 May 2016 - 06:44 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

From left to right, nut, spring washer,  flat washer, pedal arm (missing), wave washer, firewall nut (missing)

 

This is a photo of just the bolt.

[ozyozyozy]

That big hole on the acceleratir linkage on the carby above were yours is connected is actually the correct spot to connect the accelerator in a holley type carb.
There is a 2 piece bush you can get that goes there and the ball joint bolts to that.
Very common not to be able to get full throttle.
"Lokar" make cables that can be cut to length and have 2 adjustment points

[Lc69]

Had a similar issue on a WB. Just pulled everything apart and repaired.
Had to drill and tap a threaded section into the shoulder bolt because it was frokd.
Re-assembled with some grease and it worked a treat.

[Lc69]

Have someone push the pedal down, or use a brick
Then manually open the carb to 100% at the other end of the cable.
If the cable goes slack then you don't have enough leverage on the pedal.

Pedal can only go as far as the floor, and you don't won't the accelerator to high.
You can only get so much travel, the rest is done with leverage.

Not sure about the UC pedal, but my LC cable conversion has a adjustable stop (screw) to set the height of the pedal.
Then the floor sets the other extreme.
I had the other problem, only had to move the pedal half way to achieve 100%
I'm just making a bolt on linkage for the carb to get it just right.

[ozyozyozy]

Its not about the strength to pull it, its trying to adjust the cable to be able to pull the throttle linkage over a centre point of its travel at a particular angle.

Edited by ozyozyozy, 05 May 2016 - 10:31 PM.

[ozyozyozy]

Its hard to try explain it through a msg.
were your current position is, the linkage will rotate to eg180degrees layed flat, what it actually needs to do is rotate to 185degrees to get full travel, no amount of pulling the cable will be able to change that unless the pivot point is moved.
to be honest the factory accelerator cable is just pure junk, when try to adapt to aftermarket stuff.

Its a tricky thing to setup properly, takes a bit of time and screwing around, you will find most people are having the same problem and just havent bothered to look very hard at it.
If its only a few degrees away from full travel, you prob wont even notice the difference between that and true full throttle.

[76lxhatch]

There are two different pedals with different lever ratios too, that's why there are two spots in the mounting bracket. The one that fits the top hole has less cable travel than the one that fits the bottom hole.

[EunUCh]

This might sound like a very stupid question but is there a rubber grommety type thing in the hole on the pedal end of the cable (as per factory )?

It accounts for about a 1/4 inch , if not fitted it may well be part of the problem , if fitted  then that base is covered and disregard question.

[ozyozyozy]

If its only a few mm frim full travel it will be good enough, you won't notice.
They are a pain in the arse, i spent hours getting it to were i was happy

[Kirk]

Have you got the correct pedal ?
the V8 and the 6  are different in length from the pivot point to the cable hole

[76lxhatch]

Well in that case its because the lever is pulling too far over centre. You need to change the lever at the carb so its on a better angle (but same length) or even better put a linear or even progressive linkage on it (like a pulley) which will give consistent movement and feel.

 

ozyozyozy mentioned this above, except its unlikely to get even close to 180 degrees because once it goes over centre the cable needs to start pulling downward to get good purchase. The pulley-style linkage eliminates the problem, I don't know why more carbs don't use them.

[76lxhatch]

Can't tell from the photo, but is it possible to mount the cable under the bracket? That would probably help, as long as it doesn't make it too hard to crack the throttle open at the other end

[76lxhatch]

Less of an issue if you had a pedal with more cable travel and you could use the top hole, that would put the cable below the attachment and help with leverage.

 

Yes it is a problem for many, as above it seems stupid to me that carbs still use this style lever, you won't find it on many (edit: OEM) throttle bodies.

Edited by 76lxhatch, 13 May 2016 - 09:05 AM.