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Help with calculating compression ratio


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#1 _Hot_179_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 10:13 AM

Hi,

Hoping I can get some help with CR.

Red 202
Standard 3.25 stroke
40 thou oversize Pistons
47.5cc head
Standard ACL head gasket
Deck height I think is standard - believe I measured at 50 thou at TDC.
Pistons - small bowl I think is 2.2cc but I cannot recall. So, they might be the standard 6cc - estimates on both would be terrific.

I have used some online calculators, but unsure if I am doing it correctly.

I would have thought this would equate to somewhere between 10 and 10.5?

#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 11:08 AM

Off the top of my head I recon it will be in the 9s, will have a look tonight when I have a proper calculator if I remember.

#3 _Hot_179_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 11:47 AM

Cheers. I get it at ~9.9:1 on my calculator, but just comparing to std XU1 202 I thought it would be closer to 10.3:1.

#4 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 11:48 AM

I get around 9.3 with 2.2cc dish pistons. 8.8 with 6cc dish.

#5 _Hot_179_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 02:17 PM

Thanks. If I allow 0.025 head gasket thickness I get around 9.8 on several calculators with 2.2cc dish.

#6 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 02:32 PM

Cheers. I get it at ~9.9:1 on my calculator, but just comparing to std XU1 202 I thought it would be closer to 10.3:1.



It will be in the high nines depending on exact figures which is fine for mild performance. The 10.3 xu1 is a nominal figure and in reality most xu1s are in high nines and only make about 110 hp at the treads.

#7 _Hot_179_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 03:16 PM

Great. It us just a street motor with Waggott cam similar to XU1 (410 grind 38/78 - 226 @50 and 458 lift. YT open chamber modified head. Triple 1&3/4s.

I am sorting out ignition advance and just needed to know compression ratio.

Want to run 98RON trouble free.

Cheers

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 03:30 PM

You wont get a head gasket 0.025 thick. A standard gasket will be around 1.2mm or 0.047 thou compressed. Thats what I used to calculate along with a gasket bore diameter of 96mm also did the more thorough calculation using piston crown diameter and piston ring height.

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 04:22 PM

Forgot to add before that with the IVC angle on that cam, your dynamic comp will only be like 6.7 which is not good.

#10 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 09:04 PM

Great. It us just a street motor with Waggott cam similar to XU1 (410 grind 38/78 - 226 @50 and 458 lift. YT open chamber modified head. Triple 1&3/4s.

I am sorting out ignition advance and just needed to know compression ratio.

Want to run 98RON trouble free.

Cheers


Thats a very old and slow acting cam that will bleed off lots of cyl pressure. There are much better cams available nowadays for example camtech do one with 228@050 and 274adv will have much more torque with similar top end.

#11 _Hot_179_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 09:21 PM

Thanks for the advice and responses.

I have run this cam before and been happy enough. Considered a new grind for this build but very hard to know what would be better while still being well mannered?

What particular characteristics make it poor?

If it's such a dud; why do they make it?

#12 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 09:42 PM

Thanks for the advice and responses.

I have run this cam before and been happy enough. Considered a new grind for this build but very hard to know what would be better while still being well mannered?

What particular characteristics make it poor?

If it's such a dud; why do they make it?


The long slow ramps bleed off pressure at lower rpm . They are still made because people still buy them.

#13 _Hot_179_

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Posted 06 September 2016 - 09:49 PM

Fair enough. What timings would be more desirable? It's hard, as a lot of manufacturers don't advertise timing; only duration, lift and LSA.

So I could go better without 'bigger'?

#14 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 06:37 AM

Fair enough. What timings would be more desirable? It's hard, as a lot of manufacturers don't advertise timing; only duration, lift and LSA.

So I could go better without 'bigger'?

 

See how your cam spec says 78 degree IVC (inlet valve closing)- this is a reasonably late closing, however your cam is only 225@50 thou, which is not very long duration at 50 thou... which shows that the cam has a slow ramp profile... These days they are making cams which have much quicker ramps, which will build more torque. You can tell a quicker ramp cam by apparent long duration at 50 thou, like 238@50 or more, but the advertised valve timing events could be the same or very similar to your existing cam. This means that the newer style cam has more area under the curve. Another example is that if you wanted a smallish cam, you can get cams with 225@50 thou duration, but the advertised valve timing events would be more conservative than 78IVC.

 

A cam with an IVC of 78 will require quite good compression, as when the piston swings back on its return towards TDC, the inlet is actually still open, and so some cylinder pressure/ compression is lost back through the inlet valve, hence the loss of torque. In saying that, if you already have this cam, and if the engine is in the car etc, I would just run it, why not... But if the engine was out of the car, I would definitely be talking to a grinder about optimising the cam to your comp ratio as well as head flow.


Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 07 September 2016 - 06:39 AM.


#15 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 07:12 AM

Thanks for the advice and responses.

I have run this cam before and been happy enough. Considered a new grind for this build but very hard to know what would be better while still being well mannered?

What particular characteristics make it poor?

If it's such a dud; why do they make it?


Believe it or not technology has improved somewhat in the last 50 years, but a lot of people seem keen on sticking with the old old old school parts....

#16 _Hot_179_

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 08:05 AM

Very helpful!

The engine is in and currently just running in. Will keep as is for the time being, but great to know for future.

I did know that this cam didn't have a lot of punch down low from previous experience, but it was nice to drive in traffic and I was worried about choosing a new cam that might not be any better or possibly worse!

#17 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 08:13 AM

Fair enough. What timings would be more desirable? It's hard, as a lot of manufacturers don't advertise timing; only duration, lift and LSA.

The camtech grind mentioned above will work on a 108lsa if u like a peaky engine rough idle and not much vacuum or 110 lsa if you like brakes and smoother running.


Edited by STRAIGHTLINEMICK, 07 September 2016 - 08:14 AM.


#18 _Hot_179_

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 10:55 AM

All very interesting and wish I knew more prior to fitting this cam.

So, if I look at Waggott's options for consistency, their next cam up has:

230@50 thou
32-70/70-30 timing
.480 lift
108/111 LSA

It would actually have a much fatter torque curve, less bleed off (steeper ramp) and similar overall peak power? Sounds like all positives with no compromise?

Has me wondering why they sold me the other cam!?

Even their 'HX' XU1 grind at 225 and 35/75 would be better?

#19 _STRAIGHTLINEMICK_

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 02:02 PM

All very interesting and wish I knew more prior to fitting this cam.

So, if I look at Waggott's options for consistency, their next cam up has:

230@50 thou
32-70/70-30 timing
.480 lift
108/111 LSA

It would actually have a much fatter torque curve, less bleed off (steeper ramp) and similar overall peak power? Sounds like all positives with no compromise?

Has me wondering why they sold me the other cam!?

Even their 'HX' XU1 grind at 225 and 35/75 would be better?



The 230 or 228@050 will do the job much better than what u have.your choice

#20 _Hot_179_

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 04:00 PM

Gents,

Cheers for the feedback on both CR and cams. Three more queries to close out if I may;

1) will the difference in changes to torque and low end be dramatic? That is, would it warrant pulling out a new engine and changing fur someone who has very limited spare time?

2) are there any advantages at all to these older style slow ramp cams or are they just throwing away power?

3) where does lift sit in all of this? Should you priorities s fast acting long duration cam over lift?

Bit annoyed about the whole thing now, as I always thought it was too sedate at low range but put it down to the 110 LSA and good manners for commuting etc.

Seems like you can have your cake and eat it too now?

#21 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 08:06 PM

Gents,

Cheers for the feedback on both CR and cams. Three more queries to close out if I may;

1) will the difference in changes to torque and low end be dramatic? That is, would it warrant pulling out a new engine and changing fur someone who has very limited spare time?

2) are there any advantages at all to these older style slow ramp cams or are they just throwing away power?

3) where does lift sit in all of this? Should you priorities s fast acting long duration cam over lift?

Bit annoyed about the whole thing now, as I always thought it was too sedate at low range but put it down to the 110 LSA and good manners for commuting etc.

Seems like you can have your cake and eat it too now?

 

If the engine is in the car, and if you are short of time (like myself), no, I would not change it. I would wait until you need to yank the motor for another reason and then change the cam should you desire.

 

The cam you have is a mild cam, so going to another mild cam, even though better designed, it would still not be a rip snorter so to speak. The main advantage would be to low down torque. 

 

If the lack of low down torque bothers you, there are 2 things that you could do to help it...

 

1) raise the compression- raise it enough to get the dynamic comp around 8.7:1 or thereabouts. There are online calculators to help with this.

 

2) reduce the total advance in the dizzy... this can help crutch a motor which has mis-matched compression. If you are running say 12 initial and 32 total now, you could try 16 initial or 18 initial and 32 total. This can easily be done by just yanking the dizzy and not needing to pull the motor. The extra timing at low rpm helps with low end response when a cam has a late IVC. 

 

Im in a similar predicament in that my cam is old school and not really ideal, but I will only change it once I yank the motor for a secondary reason

 

The main advantage to the slow ramp cams is that they are argued to be easier on cam lobes and valve trains. Modern designs, metallurgy as well as oil technology has helped allow the ramps to be more aggressive yet still maintain reliability and durability, however. The more aggressive cam lobes can also hammer valve seats, but with modern hardened seats you dont hear many issues so basically, yeah, these days you can kinda 'have your cake and eat it too'.


Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 07 September 2016 - 08:10 PM.


#22 _Hot_179_

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 11:35 AM

Thank you. Very informative and helpful.

I do have another closed chamber YT head in safe keeping. It has not been modified as much as MY current 47.5cc YT open chamber head; but some additional work would go towards resolving the compression deficit without pulling the motor I imagine?

What could you realistically look for in CR within the limits of 98 RON?

#23 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 03:27 PM



What could you realistically look for in CR within the limits of 98 RON?

When factoring dynamic compression, about 8.7:1 would be conservative and safe. 9:1 is probably ok but much more and we are pushing it a bit. With an alluminium head you could go about .5 higher than cast head.



#24 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 10:09 PM

Don't be shy about giving a 202 some CR - their burn is better than their breathing ability and they respond well to higher CRs.



#25 warrenm

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Posted 08 September 2016 - 11:20 PM

10.5:1 with the right cam & ignition timing is ok on 98 fuel.




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