29 replies to this topic

[Cook]

Thanks Dave. I hope that isn't the case as that is the one thing I am trying to avoid. Other thing is that it says to first connect wires and mount the unit, which doesn't seem to make sense if you were doing it with the tank out of the car. Alternatively I wonder if I fill the tank, calibrate full, then siphon out 50% etc. etc. and calibrate accordingly. Cheers Ron

Edited by Cook, 24 October 2022 - 10:25 AM.

[hanra]

Did you every replace your old Voltage Regulator? 

[Cook]

Hi Brad. I have just hooked onto this thread, not the originator. My issue was that I had the whole cluster remade with Autometer gauges and was having initial issues with temp and fuel sender. Sent it back to the guy who made it and ended up the needle on the temp gauge was sticking. He tested the fuel gauge and said it was calibrated to original specs. I had an auto elec check and he believes the sender is faulty (new from Rares when I fitted it up some time ago). He fitted another earth from the tank at the time. It fluctuates but in the main reads half when full and then drops from there. It will be a nightmare if I have to pull the tank out so one of two things. I can see if I can get this interface to talk to it or I live with it for the time-being. Cheers Ron

[S pack]

Empty the fuel tank and drop it enough to remove the sender unit. Calibrate the interface per the onstructions, refit the sender and bolt the tank back up to the car.

[Cook]

Unfortunately Dave at this late stage to drop the tank would involve dropping the exhaust at the diff, which would involve dropping the diff, and all that on the garage floor is going to be beyond me. And even so I'm not sure how you determine the float levels at each step when it isn't in the tank. That's why I am hoping this interface will work. I think I will try the manual method of filling the tank up, calibrate, siphon off half then calibrate etc. I can't see why this shouldn't work. cheers Ron