119 replies to this topic

[Kantong]

The lh rear quarter I picked up is rough but I will atempt to make it work using the uc as repair cuts. It has had a previous dodgie patch repair in the wheel arch which I cut that out to see how bad it was, the whole repair will sit beneath the level of the flare.
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Edited by Kantong, 27 November 2017 - 11:42 PM.

[Kantong]

Then I bolted up my wheels again for inspiration haha and hung taped on flares. The flares are borrowed L34 but I recon a A9x set on skinnier 265 tyres instead of 295s will be the go.
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[Heath]

Awesome thread!

Hadn't spotted this until now. Love your work.

[Kantong]

Thanks Heath, if you have any tips or see something I could improve don’t be shy to let me know as I’m just winging it.

[Kantong]

Awesome thread!

Hadn't spotted this until now. Love your work.

Didn’t get much done this weekend but started on the quarter repair.  476DC1DF-7EEA-4A1B-ADEC-FB19E45AE4E9.jpeg   217.47K   11 downloads
I sandblasted inside and outside to get back to sold metal while keeping the inner structure as a reference for fit up.
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Then started the fit up, you can see where the flare will sit on the top line and the lower line is what will be cut away once it comes time to mount the flares

[Kantong]

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As you can see if all goes to plan the flare will cover it all. Now to spend an hour or two getting the new panel file fitted up and then start slowly tigging it in. Fingers crossed haha

[myss427]

If you are running flares, you can easily go 10 inch on the front with minor mods. Rolling diameter is the biggest hurdle.

[Kantong]

What size are your wheels Anton? I'm looking at 15 x 8 for the front and 15 x 10 for the rear for my LX but have been told that the front tyres might rub on the arches, suspension, etc. Have you sought advice on this?

[Kantong]

The Indy’s Ive got are 15x10s for the rear and 14x8s on the front all in Torana stud pattern. I’ve only looked briefly at the fronts but I assume they will be fine as these wheels came of a running driving lx hatch but I might investigate it further. At the moment I’m hoping to find some 15 or 16x8 Indy’s in hq pattern for the front ready for a brake upgrade anyhow.

[CI 0308]

 I’m hoping to find some 15 or 16x8 Indy’s in hq pattern for the front ready for a brake upgrade anyhow.

 

I have all but given up on running 15 x 10's on the front of mine as tyres arnt available that will fit in 15" size. you need something in a 40 profile that isnt available. Ill just stick to my 14 x 10's with 245 50 14 tyres.

Edited by CI 0308, 04 December 2017 - 06:27 PM.

[Kantong]

I got a bit done today, I got my new panel magnets from Eastwood which work great and are super strong so I gapped up the repair piece and got it in place file fit
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Then I grew some balls and Tig’d it in. I forgot to take photos of the process but I’m happy with how it came out. I tacked it in and then I fuse welded 90% of it in which worked well. Then spent and hour or so gently tapping, filing and sanding to get it right.

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[Kantong]

Then hit it with Matt black to check the body lines, I could tap it up further but it’s not crucial as it will all be either cut away or covered
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[Heath]

Nice one. Did you planish the weld before it was fully ground flat?

I recommend doing that, and also putting a big radius on any corner where possible - you had a bit of a sharp corner there that could have been opened up a bit, which would have pulled a bit more gently during the process.

[Rockoz]

Nice one. Did you planish the weld before it was fully ground flat?

I recommend doing that, and also putting a big radius on any corner where possible - you had a bit of a sharp corner there that could have been opened up a bit, which would have pulled a bit more gently during the process.

 

Reasoning behind planishing first?

Work hardening perhaps?

[Kantong]

Nice one. Did you planish the weld before it was fully ground flat?I recommend doing that, and also putting a big radius on any corner where possible - you had a bit of a sharp corner there that could have been opened up a bit, which would have pulled a bit more gently during the process.

Thanks for taking the time to give advice Heath, I need all the help I can get.
I did planish the tacks once it was in place to relieve the join but then from there I fuse welded it so I had virtually nothing to grind at the end, I just slowly bumped the low spots and spent a bit of time on that corner getting it right then tidied it up with a light file and sand. I’m not sure if this is right as my experience is purely trial and error and what I’ve read?
I definitely should have done that on the corner mate as that’s where I had to move the most metal, I can see how that’d help, it seems like an obvious tecnique now you have said it haha I will do that next time.

[Heath]

Reasoning behind planishing first?
Work hardening perhaps?

As the weld shrinks as it cools, skillfully planishing the weld squashes it out a bit and relieves the tension. Also after welding the area will have pulled away from where the arc was, and this is a good opportunity to beat it back into line.

Don't bother trying to planish a MIG weld, though. The material is too hard.
 

I did planish the tacks once it was in place to relieve the join but then from there I fuse welded it so I had virtually nothing to grind at the end, I just slowly bumped the low spots and spent a bit of time on that corner getting it right then tidied it up with a light file and sand. I’m not sure if this is right as my experience is purely trial and error and what I’ve read?
I definitely should have done that on the corner mate as that’s where I had to move the most metal, I can see how that’d help, it seems like an obvious tecnique now you have said it haha I will do that next time.

Planishing the tacks is a good idea too, certainly can help with setup and get you out of a sticky situation when an edge is getting tight.

I normally use a little bit of filler material everywhere, and that does make it easy to planish. If you just fuse the parent materials, it won't be proud as you say. Is my suggestion better than what you're doing? I don't know. Not having to heat up the filler material means there'll be less heat in the job overall, that may be a minor advantage.

[Kantong]

Something terrible happened today, while moving things I sat the lower dash down, it slipped, it broke, I yelled....I can’t believe I buggered it up. My missus thought I’d hurt myself only to find it was this I was in agony over...

It’s a clean break, any ideas to fix it or someone who can as I’m fussy?
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[Ice]

Bad place for a break find another one would be easier

Oh and love your work Anton

[madtoranajzedded]

Awesome fabwork Anton.your making it look
easy.

[Kantong]

Bad place for a break find another one would be easier Oh and love your work Anton

Yeah it sux, if repaired it will be right in front of my eyes behind the steering wheel, I think your right I’m gonna just have to hunt out another.
Thanks for the appreciation too Gene, it helps to keep chipping away.

[Kantong]

Awesome fabwork Anton.your making it look
easy.

Thanks Maz, I appreciate the comments. I assure you it doesn’t come easy to me haha lots of reading before chopping

[gtrboyy]

Similar piece on my lc gtr was broken in 2 pieces like that luckily it was mostly hidden by steering column so I used araldite from inside where you cant see to hold it together with strength..wiped/dabbed the top part with a rag then when it all dried got thin tipped paint pen to blend in the crack.

 

Noboby spots it unless you tell them.

[Statler]

The stainless gutter moulds on the parts car are desirable now. 

[Kantong]

The stainless gutter moulds on the parts car are desirable now. 

I think they were mostly damaged from memory but I might go back and have a better look now you mention it.