119 replies to this topic

[Kantong]

Next was to fix a blister of rust just above the previous repair. Cut the rubbish away then blasted around it and then file fit the new bit in to Weld. Unfortunatly I didn’t get to round the edges as Heath sugested as I’d already cut it, next time though. I then converted the area and hit it in Weld though primer ready to go.
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[Kantong]

Also, my brother dropped my boot floor off today, it’s a rare spares item so it will definitely be a bastard to fit but will definitely be better than nothing at all.
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Working out the order I fit all this will be quite a challenge as I’ve also got another tail light panel to go on as well, lots of sitting staring and thinking will be required to make it go together nicely

[Kantong]

Similar piece on my lc gtr was broken in 2 pieces like that luckily it was mostly hidden by steering column so I used araldite from inside where you cant see to hold it together with strength..wiped/dabbed the top part with a rag then when it all dried got thin tipped paint pen to blend in the crack.
 
Noboby spots it unless you tell them.

I might have to do the same yet as there have been bugger all of these available with people talking $300 plus for a good one. If I’m patient I might find one if not araldite it might be with a fresh paint.

[gtrboyy]

jb weld does the same trick although last year had better result with industrial clear super glue for dark blue vh sle plastics which you can't find or buy in good condition...dash broke apart in 3-4 places & need alot of reinforcing.

 

Had it in & out a couple of times before it broke apart...having all the plastics would make original interior look worse particularly the rarer colours.

 

 

Shouldn't be too hard a fix with how well your torrie is turning out.

[Kantong]

Got a bit of time so I burnt the parch in, pretty happy with this one. Was super cautious not to affect the big flat section on the quarter.
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[Kantong]

I got back into it again and got some done today. I have been for the last couple of weeks working out my order to replace my LH rear quarter, my tail light panel and my boot floor. After bouncing ideas off a mate over some beers we decided it would be best to go boot floor first, then tail light panel, then rear quarter in order to keep the shape and rigidity.

[Kantong]

So first up I decided to cut the boot floor away over the chassis rails so I could get in and sand blast and paint them befor cutting the floor out completely. So I bolted the rear bumper back on to stiffen the ends of the rails up and welded in some bracing.  90E23F28-700F-4FEC-9AB4-63364FDD6836.jpeg   201.65K   11 downloads

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[Kantong]

While the floor and lower quarters are buggered I was pleased to see inside the rails it was solid and they should come up well with a blast then a coating internally of kbs rust seal. There is still more to trim away yet but I will do that once blasted and the boot floor is ready for fit up.

[Kantong]

Then I slipped the floor in over top to have a look. First thoughts are that it fits ok but no doubt the true test will come later when fitting it up properly. But so far so good.
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[koalasprint]

Making good progress, thanks for keeping the updates coming. Great work too by the way!

[Kantong]

Making good progress, thanks for keeping the updates coming. Great work too by the way!

Thanks mate, I just gotta keep momentum up and keep chipping away

[Kantong]

Got a little more done on passenger side rear window area, blasted it up then gave it a degrease/converted then hit it in kbs.  475AE145-F6FD-4157-8D00-FF2C927D1201.jpeg   234.43K   7 downloads
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Then I welded the patch in.
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[Kantong]

Got back to work on the replacement quarter and welded in a lower rear rust repair panel. The panel was way off in shape and needed a lot of work seen clearly when the flare was laid over it.  98B63D45-E3FC-4261-94D8-A2E1A3A6FD37.jpeg   96.48K   10 downloads
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[Kantong]

The panel had to be flattened heaps to fit properly so using the shrinking disk I shrunk a lot 5mm of height out of the curve.  01E437F6-0C42-40C3-9F53-07FCF66957DD.jpeg   217.26K   10 downloads

Then I file fit it in ready to weld.
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[Kantong]

So then I TIGd it in.  D14E1698-7F1B-47E5-B39B-5892CF09E212.jpeg   136.76K   9 downloads
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Then tapped and filed it up
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[Kantong]

Although the welding went well, it seemed to pull the lower body line almost flat and put a distortion in it just either side of the line. The line and the metal above and below, as you know it relatively flat when a steel ruler on its edge it sat on it. It put a curve in the metal that left a gap under each end of the steel ruler of about 3 to 4mm over its length. So once again I had to shrink the shit out of it and do some tapping but sure enough a little persuasion and the body line came back and the surrounding metal flattened out and came back into place. It still requires a little more tapping but I will finish that once it’s hanging on the car so all up pretty happy.  2DC7A6F8-49B8-49BA-9B25-03C18621620C.jpeg   237.72K   15 downloads
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[Heath]

Keep up the good work Anton, it looks like you're getting some classy results.

The discussion a page back about planishing welds allows you to control the shrinking that you're battling with now (i.e. get the lines better before you even grind the weld back by stretching it back out in the right places), but you might need to add some material to the weld first so that there's actually something sticking proud that you can focus your impact on.

Edited by Heath, 01 March 2018 - 06:53 AM.

[Kantong]

Keep up the good work Anton, it looks like you're getting some classy results.The discussion a page back about planishing welds allows you to control the shrinking that you're battling with now (i.e. get the lines better before you even grind the weld back by stretching it back out in the right places), but you might need to add some material to the weld first so that there's actually something sticking proud that you can focus your impact on.

Thanks Heath, it’s getting there but I think I will have to re-learn my tigging to flow filler better. What I’m doing is working but I would like better results, I’m finding my machine is creating some limitations to what I can do as it’s so basic but also I will just have to experiment and practice a bit more

[Kantong]

Got a bit more done on the replacement quarter, I didn’t clean up under it as thes two layers will be separated once it gets unpicked to go on the car.
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[Kantong]

Love the look of your wheels Tony. Are they 14 x 8 inch and 15 x 10 inch?

Thanks potsie, yeah I really dig the look of the dragway Indy’s too, I’m just lucky to have found some I’m my town which was a bonus. Yeah they are 14x8s and 15x10s which not everyone loves but I think it gives it a nice stance.

[Kantong]

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[Kantong]

So it’s been a long time since there’s been any action as I’ve had other projects on the go but also I’ve been resisting welding in the aftermarket boot floor as it’s the next real step to take on the car, and I haven’t been all that happy with it.
I’ve been hoping to stumble across a useable original boot floor to use and last week I found a rear cut that had one in it that was just ok. It’s not amazing but I believe I can fix it using a uc boot floor I have, to repair some of the pinholed areas. Anyway I’ll sandblast it and give it a crack and see what happens. It will be a Frankenstein when it’s done but should fit and look far better.

[Kantong]

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This is how I found it in the wrecking yard


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This is the uc floor I’ve got which I’m hoping to dice up and repair the other floor

[Kantong]

Started repairing the boot today will be interesting to see if I can sus it out, so far so good, also picked up an ok wheel well for it too.

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Edited by Kantong, 07 April 2019 - 08:02 PM.