19 replies to this topic

[bullitA9X]

Hey guys have pulled out the aussie 4 speed and got a supra w58 for the hatchback have the crs bh40 bellhousing and the crs tf2 clutch fork now for the hydrolic side of things im not sure i was going to use the malwood peddle setup but reading through some threads a lot have said they are shit as you have to modify it to work next i looked at dellows but judging by the instructions you have to modify the original cable hole to make it work which i dont want to do also dont like how the master sits on a lean anyone have any ideas??

[Growla]

For Me, the Malwood was easy peasy. A couple of bolts and washers and it was in. I really don't understand the negative talk about it. Seven years later I've had no issues at all.

 

cheers

Mark

[bullitA9X]

For Me, the Malwood was easy peasy. A couple of bolts and washers and it was in. I really don't understand the negative talk about it. Seven years later I've had no issues at all.

cheers
Mark

Hey mark have you got any pics of when you were fitting it mate also what does the peddle look like in the car??

[StephenSLR]

I have the Dellows in the Torana with a Supra 5 speed and Mal Wood in the Mustang with a T5.  The Mal Wood is far superior, better pedal feel, etc.

 

Here's how it was done in the Mustang.

 

http://www.gmh-toran...e-3#entry817244

 

s

[bullitA9X]

I have the Dellows in the Torana with a Supra 5 speed and Mal Wood in the Mustang with a T5. The Mal Wood is far superior, better pedal feel, etc.

Here's how it was done in the Mustang.

http://www.gmh-toran...e-3#entry817244

s

Cheers for the info mate i like the look of the malwood if its as easy as it looks...

[StephenSLR]

Cheers for the info mate i like the look of the malwood if its as easy as it looks...

 

The hard part was getting the shim distance right. I first picked it up and on the way home I depressed the pedal more than was supposed to and blew out the hydraulic throw out bearing.  This is why Johnny put in the screw to prevent it travelling further. He added more shims bringing the htob closer to the pressure plate, it may not have been necessary to add that stop but he put it on just in case. The stop that MW has is so you don't depress the pedal and push the master cylinder piston too far.

 

s

[bullitA9X]

The hard part was getting the shim distance right. I first picked it up and on the way home I depressed the pedal more than was supposed to and blew out the hydraulic throw out bearing. This is why Johnny put in the screw to prevent it travelling further. He added more shims bringing the htob closer to the pressure plate, it may not have been necessary to add that stop but he put it on just in case. The stop that MW has is so you don't depress the pedal and push the master cylinder piston too far.

s

If i go the malwood im just going to use the hydrolic slave cyl not the hydrolic throw out bearing so i hope i wont have any dramas that way but then again is it worth using the hydrolic throw out bearing aswell??

Edited by bullitA9X, 05 April 2017 - 06:53 PM.

[Lima31]

Malwood plus quartermaster throwout would be best.

[bullitA9X]

Malwood plus quartermaster throwout would be best.

Cheers mate...

[StephenSLR]

Yep, I have the Quartermaster htob.

From what I was told the htob is better than a fork as there are less moving parts. The bearing travels outward in a straight line whereas a fork travels in a slight arc rotating around a fulcrum but I'm not so sure how much benefit you gain, one vs the other.

 

s

[bullitA9X]

Yep, I have the Quartermaster htob.
From what I was told the htob is better than a fork as there are less moving parts. The bearing travels outward in a straight line whereas a fork travels in a slight arc rotating around a fulcrum but I'm not so sure how much benefit you gain, one vs the other.

s

Thank's for your reply's mate im going with the malwood setup only thing that worries me about the hydrolic throw out bearing is any problems and the box has to come out...

[StephenSLR]

only thing that worries me about the hydraulic throw out bearing is any problems and the box has to come out...

 

Yes, that's the down-side to it.  Htob's do have a bad name because of this and people not setting them up properly in the first place end up having to take out the box for each problem but they're used in modern vehicles that run thousands of km's without issue. Once you get it set right you should be good.

 

s

[StephenSLR]

Does anyone have detailed pics of how they did theirs?

 

I'm thinking about getting it done for the LX.

 

s

[Heath]

Does this help?

https://www.gmh-tora...atch/?p=1074880

[StephenSLR]

Does this help?

https://www.gmh-tora...atch/?p=1074880

A little yeah.

 

What was the issue with the Mal Wood pedal arrangement?  I notice you used a Wilwood master cyl.

 

You also used another reservoir?

 

Very nice work!

 

s

[Heath]

I never tried the Mal Wood pedal arrangement. I wanted my clutch and brake pedal arms to match, so I just made my own setup using the standard clutch pedal.

 

3/4" combination Wilwood master (not the compact type) and an eBay motorcycle clutch reservoir on the firewall, with a flexible hose between them. It's tight, but it works and is super elegant.

 

All covered in detail in the build thread.

[StephenSLR]

I never tried the Mal Wood pedal arrangement. I wanted my clutch and brake pedal arms to match, so I just made my own setup using the standard clutch pedal.

 

3/4" combination Wilwood master (not the compact type) and an eBay motorcycle clutch reservoir on the firewall, with a flexible hose between them. It's tight, but it works and is super elegant.

 

All covered in detail in the build thread.

Nice one!

 

s

[StephenSLR]

Had the Mal Wood setup with HTOB fitted to the LX. (308 with Supra 5 speed)

 

Awesome!

 

Had Western Clutch in Sydney do the work, have asked them to send through some photos, will post when I get them.

 

The pedal did interfere with the handbrake foot-pedal so the guys bent the clutch pedal arm to clear. The arm comes in from the left of the pedal whereas the original comes in from the right.

 

The clutch pedal seems to sit a little higher, the guy at WC says he believes his one sits a bit lower, perhaps Mal has modified the latest version to sit higher? He also says my handbrake pedal sits lower than his and extends down much lower. Both pedals clear each other now so not an issue, may have to look at getting the e-brake adjusted if possible so the pedal sits higher.

 

The clutch also grips when the pedal is a bit higher than what I'm used to/prefer but it's so smooth that it isn't really a bother. I think it's the same in the Mustang and I got used to that no problem.

 

I previously had the Dellows set up and Dellows is trash in comparison though to be fair, I believe I also had the old style heavy duty pressure plates which required a lot more force from my foot to get it to disengage.

 

WC also put in a plate on the firewall to neaten it up, used braided hoses, etc.

 

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 03 March 2024 - 10:33 AM.

[claysummers]

You should be able to remove shims to increase thrust bearing free play by loosening the bell housing, starter and rear mount bolts, and sliding the box back. Otherwise, yes. Box out.


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[StephenSLR]

only thing that worries me about the hydraulic throw out bearing is any problems and the box has to come out...

The guys at Western Clutch were able to do it with without taking out the box (Supra box) but they have a hoist and work on clutches every day. There was issue with my exhaust pipes and they didn't want to cut them up to get the box right out. They told me they were able to push the gearbox back far enough to do the work. I wouldn't attempt it that way unless you really know what you're doing. They also machined the flywheel, tig welded a sleeve onto the input shaft and put in a spigot bearing. I imagine the previous set up had a bearing for Toyota shaft and they put in a Holden one and changed the input shaft to suit.

 

I did have issue with the htob in the Mustang, it popped on the way home and the guy that did that paid for the tow back to workshop and put in another one, set it up with more shims and did some work to the clutch pedal arm to prevent it going further than required - still plenty of travel, I don't hit the stops during driving and have had no issue since.

 

Western Clutch didn't do any of that but their comment was 'we know what we're doing'. They both have this set up in their Toranas without problem.

 

Here's the blueprint of what was done, your results may vary.

 

 

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 10 March 2024 - 06:59 AM.