138 replies to this topic

[axistr]

Finally got the engine block and heads back. The machine shop I had been using for the past 28 years has been sold and taken over by new owners, I was going to use them but got recommended another machine shop by a mate that who did good work and reasonably priced. Well I didn't expect to have to wait for almost four months but didn't hassle them. I gave the machine shop strict instruction of what I wanted done. Chemically cleaned, new cam bearing, bored & honed, rods checked and pin fit, main tunnels checked, and heads serviced including all new guides. I know I am a bit fussy but this is how the engine turned up.

 

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Its a bit hard to see but look at all the crap and silicon in the rear seal recesses. He didn't put the block through to hot tank, didn't remove the welsh plugs. When I questioned him about not even removing the welsh plugs he told me they were brass. I said only two plugs were brass what about the rest and the cam welsh plus were supposed to have been removed and acid hot dip the block and heads. He shrug his shoulders. The old story once they have your money there isn't any use complaining. So removed all the welsh plugs, degreased and steam cleaned the block myself and started from scratch. Also a bit hard to see in the photo but number 8 cylinder bore was damaged at the bottom 10mm where his tool must have come loose and has scored the bore no possibility of trying to hone them out .010" deep. Lucky it won't effect performance or longevity of the engine but not happy Jan. He didn't say anything, I think he thought I would take the Stevie Wonder approach to the engine assembly. I didn't go to his shop with a guide dog either.

Anyway with my bitching out of the way I fitted the new cam bearings, borrowed more measuring gear and double checked every thing twice. Every thing measured up ok. With every part properly clean and ready to go back together I did the assembly. Don't like fitting rope rear main seals but after 3 hours I got it just right. Luck all the bores were machined to the correct sizes and the ring gaps were all spot on.

 

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And as they say in the cooking shows, "here is one I prepared previously"

 

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And its back in. Next free day I will do the wiring hook up and fire it up. Just as I took the photo I realised this was the first V8 I have build that is basically stock. Its got a bit more compression, a bit more lift and duration in the cam but that's it. hmm must be getting old.

 

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[Bigfella237]

Bloody hard to find good help these days, nobody gives a toss, especially once they have your money!

 

Not to be 'that guy' but why paint it red? Shouldn't a WB have a blue motor?

[axistr]

Yep still has its blue motor heritage but keeping it with the HZ sandman theme. My mate that started this project purchased a HZ twin headlight front and the original WB panels are long gone. Rather than trying to buy a good WB front I am going to use the HZ parts that it come with.   

[warrenm]

It may have been pointed out already, but the chassis ends on the WB are different to the HZ & earlier which makes it a challenge to hold the bumper bar up.

[axistr]

I have heard there is a difference but without seeing both together its hard to visualise. When I get the panao moving under its own steam again my intentions are to fit up all the front panels and see how everything lines up and panel gaps. Then I will have to attack the front bumper mounting.  

[76lxhatch]

You can see it in your photos above, the normally rounded/finished end of the 'horn' at the very front of the chassis rail is cut off. Put your HZ bumper bracket up to it and you'll see you are missing the forward most bolt mount in this area.

[axistr]

Finally the panno has a hart beat again. Its good to hear it run again. Started first pop. Checked all the compressions 150psi on all cylinders and no oil leaks. I did however have one hiccup, I removed all the spark plugs and wound it over to get oil pressure first, the needle & seat stuck and flooded the carby and manifold before I noticed it. It even filled the secondary's and fuel run through the butterfly shafts. I am glad I disconnected the coil wire so there wasn't any spark. Forgot how tedious the old quadrojets are to pull apart. Anyway got there in the end. One more small step forward. 

 

 

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[axistr]

Thanks Warren,

 

Got a bit side tracked this week. I got given a second hand PX1 Ford Ranger that wont start and need a bit of attention and a mini make over. So I thought I would do a restro on it.

 

I started by putting it on the hoist and give it a full inspection and check for voltage leaks. Like my PX2 ranger this earlier PX1 also has electric power steering and a heap of extras mine doesn't have. I haven't got any grand kids yet but I think they will have a ball cruising around our property when they decide to start to learn how to drive.  

 

 

 

I gave it a quick vacuum and polish but I should have taken some before and after shots. Anyway I managed to get a few shots of it on the hoist.

 

 

 

Sorry if the photos are a bit small.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Ice]

Like most fords always on hoists

[axistr]

It's time to connect the cooling system. Purchased a new brass/copper radiator $500 later but need something to bolt it to, so back into a bit of panel work. Striped back the radiator support and inner guards and to my surprise how go these panels are, no rust repairs needed and like new now that's a bonus, then primed them. I haven't done any spray painting for some time and its all very different to what I am used to. The old methods of etch prime, primer and reprime are all memories. My son is a panel beater and said don't use that old stuff go 2 pack. So its now in Epoxytec primer and drying. if the weather is ok in the morning I will give the panels a sand and black top coat. Must say the 2 pack primer is much easier than the old system.

 

Lucky I'm on acres so I can paint out side behind the shed and not bother anyone and the horses didn't mind they just looked over the fence with a curious look.

 

I still have trouble getting my head around applying this epoxy prime before doing any body filler repairs. Just old school thoughts but My son assures me its the only way to go. I painted the upper tail gate and will bog over top as advised. it need bugger all as I file finished 90% of it.

 

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[UCgazman]

Wow, rust free rad support is a rare find these days!

[axistr]

I took the safe option and sanded the guards back to bare metal. Drivers side guard almost perfect and only had to weld up the body strip protector holes. File finished the rest of the guard ready for epoxy prime. The left guard only had minor rust which was an easy repair and decided to fil in the aerial hole. Also managed to paint and fit the radiator and radiator support, connect the cooling system, start and tune the engine. Its always satisfying to hear the engine running right after so much time spent rebuilding it.

 

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[axistr]

Thanks Warren, 

 

After the engine tune I noticed the quad gauges reading a bit low and slowly fluctuating. I had a simular problem with my SLR gauges a few years ago, I sent them to a local instrument company who charged me $200.00 to fit a electronic gauge regulator and adjust the needles. This time I decided to have a go myself. Picked up an adjustable 5volt regulator from Jcar.  I chose this regulator because they don't get hot and the adjustability for a perfect output voltage, only cost me $7.95 but you can also buy cheaper ones for $1.99 

I spoke to forum member VDO (Chris) who give me a few helpful hints. He recommended I bench set the output voltage to 5.10 first. 

 

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The original regulator works the same as the Toranas but they are mounted inside the quad gauge on the board, so I had to cut the wires from the original reg and bypass it to the electronic regulator.

 

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I used my resistance wheel, set a 10 ohms resistance into each gauge circuit  and they all aligned to the high mark. I  then set the resistance to 70, 40 and 22 ohms and all the gauges moved to the correct readings. Bloody perfect, job done.

 

Put the quad gauge panel back into the van and run the engine again, Its nice to have accurate gauges or as good as it gets for these genuine units. 

 

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[axistr]

Finished doing the basic front panel repairs and did the trial fit up to check all the body lines and gaps. Very surprised how well they all lined up considering that all the front panels come off four different cars. The gaps are reasonable good but I need my son to come over and help me fit the bonnet then complete all the gap setting.

 

Ok one for the experts, its been a very long time since I last had a Sandman and the memory is not so good. I am trying to keep with the original under bonnet HZ look, just not sure what parts of the panels are GMH black and what parts are body colour. I know the outer guard top inside under bonnet section is body colour,  but what colour is the rest of the outer guard inside/underside, and the rear of the front apron from memory they were body colour. Before I stripped all the old paint off these panels one was body colour, one was GMH black and the front apron(inner) was a base coat only (no clear).

 

 

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I had to abandon  work in the shed on the weekend the heat just got the better of me. 49.5 when I checked the gauge. The temp briefly went to 51.4 when a N/W wind come through. I pulled out a second thermomotor to double check it was reading right, it also read to same and it was even hotter in the shed with the fan going. I tried to mix a tiny bit of nicky but it dried before I could mix the hardener through. 

 

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[axistr]

Wasn't overly happy with the body lines and sections over the front doors. The previous panel beater had the body in guide coat (WTF) decided to fit the window trim and removable over door drip rails which I sand blasted and repaired first to see how good or bad everything lined up.

 

Once I fitted these trims the body lines looked much worse. It looked like there has been a repair here so I used the file paper tool which clearly showed the panel was all over the place. Not knowing how well the last beater was at doing repairs, I didn't chance it and took it back to bare metal. Once I removed the bog the body lines where basically good. There was way to much bog fitted  and only needs around 1/4 of the filler to get it right. I also found no repairs only lead which I would presume is still factory. I wouldn't think the last beater would have lead wiped it so I have no idea why it had so much bog in it.

 

The old saying, if you want it done right you have to bloody well  do it your self. Anyway drip rails repaired and primed and body sections in epoxy prime ready for filler next time I get time.

 

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[Bigfella237]

Back when my old man had the panel shop he employed this old-school-type tradesman for a little while who did everything in lead wipe, absolutely fascinating to watch him work, but it's one of those skills that has probably all but died out today.

 

Trouble was, although he did an amazing job, he was slow as a wet week and that just doesn't cut the mustard when you're working for insurance companies so he wasn't there long.

[axistr]

After rubbing my hands all over the body for a very long time I wasn't happy in a few spots, blocked, re-coated and re-blocked till I was a happy little vegemite. We forget how bad the assembly and body work was from factory on these old Holden's, a few of the ripples were properly from factory. I am trying to get the panels, gaps and body just that bit better than factory. I will be happy when the car is in hi-fill and doesn't look like a patch work quilt.  

 

I also started to fit up a few things to insure I don't have any issues when its finally in top coat. The mirror chrome bracket bases need re-chroming and would be much better to paint when apart. Has anyone striped these GTS mirrors without damaging them? Or do I bite the bullet and fork out for new ones from Rare Spares.

 

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[Rockoz]

I pulled one apart some time ago.

There is a plastic plate thing the mirror mounts on to.

It is glued with a sikaflex type substance to the mirror body.

Long sharp knife to cut away the glue and a lot of time and patience.

Once its out you can undo the nut and remove the chrome.

I pulled one apart because the mirror head almost flopped around.

And I was contemplating putting an electric head in at the same time.

Still on a shelf awaiting motivation to continue.

[Bigfella237]

I'm kinda surprised Rare Spares or someone doesn't reproduce the electric version already, I would think they'd be popular with everyone retrofitting all the mod cons these days?

[Rockoz]

I looked at buying mirrors from a VS or similar.

Provided it all fits in okay there wouldnt be much drama doing it.

Was one of the things I was going to do when I had my Torana.