199 replies to this topic

[Gatti]

I can make them left and right. The long ones are dearer.

Thread of my build: http://www.gmh-toran...j-build-thread/

And

http://www.gmh-toran...-lj-inner-sill/

 

 

Cool. I'll have a look at my car on the weekend and see what I need and I'll send you a message

[Gatti]

I am wanting to but some repair sections for both sides of the cowl. 

 

I had a look at Rare Spares but want to make sure they are the right parts. I think the part is upside down in the Rare Spares photo?

 

Part I need to replace

 

 

Rare Spares part

 

[turboman]

its for the other side

[lctriples]

Matt I used the rares patch panel as I needed to cut away to get at rusted section underneath. I didnt take any photos of it welded in, but it came up alright in the end and didn't need to much tweak'n to fit, hope this helps paul

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[Gatti]

Matt I used the rares patch panel as I needed to cut away to get at rusted section underneath. I didnt take any photos of it welded in, but it came up alright in the end and didn't need to much tweak'n to fit, hope this helps paul

 

 

Thanks mate.

 

I'll order the patch panels as well

[Gatti]

So I've been slowly chipping away at it the best I can.

 

I bought a couple of Rodomo's repair (very nicely made) sections but turns out I didn't need a full one for the drivers side so I trimmed off what I needed.

 

New section for behind the drivers side lower guard

 

Closed up behind the new drivers side sill

 

I also bought the cowl sections from Rare Spares and started on the drivers side today

 

Rust in behind the cowl

 

Cut out two small sections and have tried to replace the rusted out section that I'll finish tomorrow and hopefully get the new cowl section on as well

[Gatti]

New cowl section is on. Still not amazing welding but definitely getting better with each repair I do.

 

 

I've been hitting each new section with a coat of Kill Rust to protect it under I start on the whole body paint prep.

 

[Indy Orange]

Looks really good Matt ,great work.

[Gatti]

Replaced the passenger side cowl section today

 

 

Underneath the cowl was fine so I hit it with the wire brush and gave it a coat of Kill Rust then put in the new section

 

 

All done for now

 

[Rockoz]

Now that you are getting reasonable results with gasless, bite the bullet and go get yourself a gas mig.

Unimigs are pretty good kit and can be had for around the 700 buck mark.

Get the gas from the likes of Bunnings, so you dont have silly rental fees annually.

You will be surprised at how good you go with gas once you have done okay with gasless.

 

You may even find that you will go back and redo a few sections.

Has happened with a few projects as ability and confidence grows.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Gatti]

Now that you are getting reasonable results with gasless, bite the bullet and go get yourself a gas mig.

Unimigs are pretty good kit and can be had for around the 700 buck mark.

Get the gas from the likes of Bunnings, so you dont have silly rental fees annually.

You will be surprised at how good you go with gas once you have done okay with gasless.

 

You may even find that you will go back and redo a few sections.

Has happened with a few projects as ability and confidence grows.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 

Yep, I've realised my current welder is a POS

 

VEK Tools are around the corner from my work and they have this one.

 

https://www.vektools...der-180amp.html

 

I think I'll grab one this week

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

I have that Unimig, it does good work. It will be perfect for your 1st gas welder.

[Gatti]

I have that Unimig, it does good work. It will be perfect for your 1st gas welder.

Thanks

I have been doing some research and am wondering if I should get a TIG welder instead as they are supposed to be better for this type of work as the welds aren’t as hard as MIG and are more pliable and less likely to crack.


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[Rockoz]

With TIG, most guys use the MIG first to get the patch in the right place.

Then they go through and TIG it up.

So you theoretically need a MIG first anyway.

 

Lots of quality work has been done over the years with MIG only.

In fact, I doubt too many panel shops would even have a TIG.

 

I looked at a local panel shop recently. He does some nice work.

No TIG to be seen.

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

No TIG at my shop, really don't need it. I have a much larger Unimig at the shop, the one above I use at home.

[Gatti]

Thanks for everyone's replies.

 

I picked this up today (I ended up spending more than planned)

 

It's a Unimig Viper Inverter MIG-MMA 182 and I bought a tank of Argon mix.

 

I actually found that all the models of Unimig they had were the inverter type.

 

Looking forward to firing it up on the weekend 

 

Edited by Gatti, 16 July 2019 - 04:15 PM.

[Gatti]

Not related to my car build, but I made did a little project today and made an adjustable fork saver for when I transport my dirt bike.

 

The Unimig is so much nicer to use and I couldn't believe how much nicer my welds were straight away!

 

Edited by Gatti, 20 July 2019 - 05:32 PM.

[Rockoz]

Not worried about it punching through the guard?

I used to transport a lot of bikes for myself and friends over the years and never had a problem with tying them down hard on the forks.

Everyone I knew did the same.

Except for one friend who insisted his bike was only slightly compressed.

That in itself caused a problem on one trip.

 

We had driven all the way down to Bredbo to spend a weekend riding.

We stopped at the pub to have a couple of drinks, and to buy some more alcohol to take with us to the place we were staying.

There were 3 of us but only 2 bikes. I was going to spend the weekend studying, and a friend was going to ride my bike on the weekend.

The friends decided they were going to ride the bikes home from the pub.

But instead of getting the bikes off the trailer, they jumped on the bikes on the trailer.

So. Being a quiet little place and not far to go, I decided to go with it.

All was well until we took the first left turn.

Mate with his loose tie down leaned into the corner. Hos bike was on the left on the trailer.

We he leaned over, the left tie down came off its loop. When he straightened, his bike kept going to the right.

He knocked the other mate clean off the bike and I watched him sail through the air in the mirror.

My bike laid over a bit on the trailer as well.

The other mate was hanging on to my bike and was being dragged along with the trailer wheel rubbing on his back.

This was all done at pretty low speed.

The friend that ended up in the ditch got a few scrapes, but was relatively unhurt.

But he decided to not ride that weekend and spent his time getting drunk on our "support" vehicle.

The other friend had a slight burn mark on his back.

There were a couple of elderly ladies nearby having a chinwag who saw the whole thing happen.

As we tied the bikes back up they just said hello, and to have a good weekend.

It was nothing different to them in the sleepy little town with lots of young blokes who made their own fun.

 

Just a little story. Hope you can see the entertainment value in it.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Gatti]

Not worried about it punching through the guard?

I used to transport a lot of bikes for myself and friends over the years and never had a problem with tying them down hard on the forks.

Everyone I knew did the same.

Except for one friend who insisted his bike was only slightly compressed.

That in itself caused a problem on one trip.

 

Hi Rob,

 

That story's gold and sounds like the sort of thing my mates and I used to get up to 

 

I regards to the fork saver, the top to it sits under the triple tree so there's no risk of it punching through the guard.

 

I need to make the bike as rigid as I can as the places we ride usually involve some four wheel driving as well.

 

I have also been told that not using one is the fastest way to wear the fork springs and blow the seals.

Edited by Gatti, 22 July 2019 - 10:18 AM.

[lctriples]

Matt: Wow welding like a pro there, amazing the difference when you have the right tools for the job, the welder will re-pay itself in spades over the period of resto and you will be amazed when else in comes in handy, (making custom tools like door pin pullers ect), repairing gates, brackets around the home, repairing trailers, motor bikes, go karts, all your neighbours, relatives, friends repairs ect ect. My only humble bit of advice (from a very novice welder) I would pass onto you from mistakes I made is to make sure you have good penetration and enough heat in the welds. When I welded one of my sills in I basically "tack" welded it in as I didn't want to warp or buckle the metal too much, and when my panelbeater mate helped me work on the project, he picked it up straight away and was able to pry the sill away with a screwdriver. This would have been catastrophic once I put the car on the road as the sills form part of the strength/integrity of shell and when stress or torque applied (ie driving) metal would have cracked and split. Just a tip which may save heartache, time and $$$$ down the track. There should be information or threads on this forum about welding in relation to stretching/shrinking/working metal back into shape, or you tube, books from library. I was lucky enough to have access to a stud gun/welder to pull sections out where you don't have access behind metal (such as sills) hope this helps and keep up the good work, paul. 

[Rockoz]

Even when tack welding you need to check that you are getting good penetration.

I like to use a gap of about 1mm between the pieces to ensure god penetration.

Do some practice bits on the bench and you will get a feel for it.

Once you get your eye in on what makes a good tack weld you will get it right pretty much all the time from there on in.

Usually you can see if you have got the penetration you need.

You will quickly be able to spot a weld visually that isnt quite right.

 

Cheers  

 

Rob

[Gatti]

Now I have the new welder I ended up grinding back the floorpan and trans tunnel and going them again to make sure the welds had good penetration and were strong.

 

 

I also put in the new lower drivers side guard section which turned out pretty well.

 

[Rockoz]

I think I may have predicted something like that . lol

[Gatti]

I think I may have predicted something like that . lol

Yep, you did


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[Gatti]

Also that's not my welds in this photo is a rubberised sealant I put over them.

 

I could have been neater but thought it won't be seen so I'd give it a decent cover.

 

 

 

Edited by Gatti, 26 August 2019 - 01:31 PM.