SLR in the making
#1
Posted 18 March 2018 - 09:59 PM
Awesome to be on here
I often read alot from threads linked to this forum- always going to join when i finally got my torrie.
I recently just brought an LH torana slr replica
True barn find
Had the flare kit etc already installed but the guard cuts all need addressing as they done dodgy
It has all three matching tags and the chassis number matching the plate
Lip been cut from the engine bay, it was set up as a race car with a race seat, big whole cut in passenger floor where im guessing extractors came into play, fuel tank in boot etc. Guessimg it had a big block in it or something
Very minimal rust - very happy
Has a l34 rear end l34 wheels and all around disc brakes.
Plenty to do
Cant wait
Ive wanted one for 20years
Very pumped will post photos of it and excited to pick all ur brains when in need
Cheers fellas
#2
Posted 19 March 2018 - 10:52 AM
Welcome Mitch, sounds interesting can't wait to see some pics, like old race cars
#3
Posted 19 March 2018 - 04:46 PM
Still trying to work out how to post the pics haha
#4
Posted 01 May 2018 - 10:45 PM
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#5
Posted 01 May 2018 - 10:49 PM
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#6
Posted 01 May 2018 - 10:52 PM
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#7
Posted 01 May 2018 - 10:56 PM
Cleared everything out
Was the day after the 19hr return drive
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#8
Posted 01 May 2018 - 11:01 PM
Rust in the usual spots
Strippes off the flares doors etc
Rear quarters have rust and who ever butchered the flare job should be shot!
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#9
Posted 01 May 2018 - 11:02 PM
#10
Posted 01 May 2018 - 11:08 PM
Hahahaa thats my old boy/torana labourer helper hahaalooks ok mate. lots of fun to come..is that dicky johnson at coffs with ya??? lol
Cant wait to call him that next time i see him
Cheers mate
Having fun with it
Gonna post more pics see what all guys can give me advice on
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#11
Posted 01 May 2018 - 11:15 PM
I decided to cut open the plenum chamber on anzac day to inspect for more rust.
As u can see they butchered the lip in the engine bay
Im guessing for the big block
Glad i cut it open
It was only surface rust mostly in the chamber - floor was rust free - cheering.
But a little part on the left corner near the windscreen will need to be cut out- piece made and welded in - also the floor patch needs to be made bent imtp shape and welded in
I got my kbs chassis kit delivered yesterday.
Planning to do the floor, boot underside and inside of the plenum chamber
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#12
Posted 01 May 2018 - 11:19 PM
#13
Posted 01 May 2018 - 11:31 PM
Started playing with the windscreen first as i think it's the hardest part so i heated up and bent/ moulded the new windscreen section into place over the existing so it was exact same shape as the car and clamped and marked it out.
It was scary but i cut it all out and trimmed, filed, grinded until i got it near perfect.
I have also started making up some replacement corners using .9mm sheet metal i got and welding together.
Happy with how it looks ready to start welding it in.
Going to cut out the rest of the rust first and make up the repair sections needed and then tackle the welding.
Ill keep posting as i go.
Any advice welcome
Its my first car resto and im reading alot and researching as much as i can but always keen for advice
Cheers
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#14
Posted 01 May 2018 - 11:42 PM
Hey IceWhats with the chains behind RHR tyre ?
If you look at the right rear bumber and the front left bumber they have tow stickers
There is a chain rhs rear as u say and there is one with like a red metal hook on the front lhs
Im guessing it was to tow the car into line for the drag strip? Maybe
Had a make shift metal dash with 3 gauges and a push button start with a race seat in it.
See the first pics i put up u can see.
The good thing about this is the underside looks really good mate. They seem to have painted the whole underside.
So im cheering. Still planning to wire brush and kbs it all though.
It has 4 wheel discs brakes and ive been told its a 10 bolt l34 diff.
Do u know how i determine what the diff is?
I brought the torana book and it says there should be an i d plate on there but ive been under and There is nothing on it?
So i dunno
Could it be a 9 inch?
I got heaps of questions hahaa
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#15
Posted 02 May 2018 - 02:59 AM
Doesn't look too bad considering age & how much it's been messed with...diff looks like a salisbury having rear plate.
Almost thought it was an l31 slr I used to have that was set up for bb chev then saw yellow under the black paint.
#16 _brickus_
Posted 02 May 2018 - 04:57 AM
I have said before and I'll say it to you, Mitch. I am in awe of you young guys taking on these projects. In my day we just went down to the Torana Shop and bought a new one. Keep up the enthusiasm, don't lose sight of the end prize but stay with the job in hand no matter how mundane, boring or hard it may be. It WILL be worth it.
#17
Posted 02 May 2018 - 06:15 AM
Thanks mateI have said before and I'll say it to you, Mitch. I am in awe of you young guys taking on these projects. In my day we just went down to the Torana Shop and bought a new one. Keep up the enthusiasm, don't lose sight of the end prize but stay with the job in hand no matter how mundane, boring or hard it may be. It WILL be worth it.
I am motivated
Always wanted one
Loving tinkering with the metal works
Im a carpenter and builder by trade so im loving doing something different.
Neighbours prob hate me by now hahaa especially on Sundays
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#18
Posted 02 May 2018 - 06:17 AM
Good stuff, I envy those that can do panel work or at least have the backyard and garage to do it in.
It looks like the PO went overboard with the stickers, hahaha.
When it comes time for paint be sure to ask advice here and learn how the LH and LX models differ in factory paint/sticker/decal schemes.
Then you can choose whether you want the factory look or a custom one.
s
#19
Posted 02 May 2018 - 08:27 AM
Im planning on doing all the metal works and body works.Good stuff, I envy those that can do panel work or at least have the backyard and garage to do it in.
It looks like the PO went overboard with the stickers, hahaha.
When it comes time for paint be sure to ask advice here and learn how the LH and LX models differ in factory paint/sticker/decal schemes.
Then you can choose whether you want the factory look or a custom one.
s
Ive found a guy that comes to you with a pressure washer/media blaster
And for 2k he will blast inside and out and etch prime.
I moght have a go at some panel work but definetely getting the paint done professionally
Eventually haha
Ill prob do suspension and i might have ago at dropping the motor in but definetly get a pro to hook it all up etc
At this stage im thinking barbado green as ive always loved that colour and i want the back wiyh2the black outs l34 style but i want the a9x black bonnet.
Being a replica thinking i can have the best of both worlds haha
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#20
Posted 02 May 2018 - 08:31 AM
It isn't an L34 diff, as they only came with drum braked Banjo's. It isn't A9X as it doesn't have the right bump stop mounts. It has probably come out of a "big" Holden.
#21
Posted 02 May 2018 - 08:34 AM
Thanks shiney005It isn't an L34 diff, as they only came with drum braked Banjo's. It isn't A9X as it doesn't have the right bump stop mounts. It has probably come out of a "big" Holden.
Anyway i can tell or only when i remove it and take it to get recod
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#22
Posted 02 May 2018 - 09:18 AM
Yep as Shiney said the diff is a modified V8 salsbury with the cast "ears" removed and Torana mounts welded on
could even be modified early Commodore would like to see what discs are on it- anyway a good thing
to have. Great project Mitch will be watching with interest.
#23
Posted 03 May 2018 - 10:26 AM
Cheers sunbirdYep as Shiney said the diff is a modified V8 salsbury with the cast "ears" removed and Torana mounts welded on
could even be modified early Commodore would like to see what discs are on it- anyway a good thing
to have. Great project Mitch will be watching with interest.
Ill take some photos of the discs and put them up.
Im away this weekend so have to wait until next to have another play with it.
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#24
Posted 03 May 2018 - 01:46 PM
Car looks good! Not bad condition at all, actually. And fortunately the dash frame was still in-tact after the flat ally panel came out. Not bad at all and you're kicking goals with it.
Plenty of good info on here about the process of doing good rust repairs and fabrication, not that I can see anything wrong with your approach so far.
#25
Posted 03 May 2018 - 06:53 PM
Cheers HeathL34's just came with a crappy Banjo diff, as per above this is a 10-Bolt Salisbury, a nice upgrade! Just gotta find out the ratio and what kind of LSD unit you can run.
Car looks good! Not bad condition at all, actually. And fortunately the dash frame was still in-tact after the flat ally panel came out. Not bad at all and you're kicking goals with it.
Plenty of good info on here about the process of doing good rust repairs and fabrication, not that I can see anything wrong with your approach so far.
I want to do it properly mate
If you gonna do it you gotta do it right!!
I knew it was good underneath when i brought it
I just dont know how far to go with the underside.
Im gonna wire brush it then kbs but ive beem reading with the kbs if u dont take it back to bare metal they cant guarantee its rust prevention and say it would turn into just a good water barrier (from the website)
Any experience with this product??
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