653 replies to this topic

[Heath]

lol, calling it a CIG locker isn't very helpful unless you already know what a CIG locker is. That's quite ahhh... informal, and specifically 'strayan. (CIG refers to the brand of welding equipment/consumables lol)

 

The photo your Google search has provided is not instructive at all (the photo shows a Torsen - like a TrueTrac etc.).

 

It's a welded diff, so it does not work as a "differential" at all; it will work as a full spool. Most serious drag cars for example would use a full spool, and invariably burnout cars etc. would do the same. Most people don't like them on the street much, they tend to dominate the handling of the car a little, increase tyre wear a little, and are illegal. Some people also use them for track use but they aren't my preference. No wearing parts and perfectly predictable in all circumstances, you'll never spin one wheel unless you break an axle. But calling that diff "tricked up" is certainly over-selling it, hahahah. frOcken bogans.

Edited by Heath, 10 May 2020 - 11:33 AM.

[Toranamat69]

I wouldn't think holden axles would last very long with a welded diff either.

Not good or legal for street use.

Get a new diff centre.

[Mitchyboy]

lol, calling it a CIG locker isn't very helpful unless you already know what a CIG locker is. That's quite ahhh... informal, and specifically 'strayan. (CIG refers to the brand of welding equipment/consumables lol)

The photo your Google search has provided is not instructive at all (the photo shows a Torsen - like a TrueTrac etc.).

It's a welded diff, so it does not work as a "differential" at all; it will work as a full spool. Most serious drag cars for example would use a full spool, and invariably burnout cars etc. would do the same. Most people don't like them on the street much, they tend to dominate the handling of the car a little, increase tyre wear a little, and are illegal. Some people also use them for track use but they aren't my preference. No wearing parts and perfectly predictable in all circumstances, you'll never spin one wheel unless you break an axle. But calling that diff "tricked up" is certainly over-selling it, hahahah. frOcken bogans.

Crazy ay.
Cheers Heath.
Will the axles still come out?

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I wouldn't think holden axles would last very long with a welded diff either.

Not good or legal for street use.

Get a new diff centre.

Cheers mate
U think it's worth replacing the centre?


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[Toranamat69]

I guess if the crown and pinion are good you could replace the diff hub with a new one in this centre. You could get a LSD or something else.

If you just want an operational open centre. Prob easiest to get a replacement centre in the ratio of your choice.

[Heath]

I don't imagine the axles would have any longevity issues necessarily. This isn't a Banjo with toothpick axles.

To answer your question, the axles will slide out the same as any other diff.

 

The side gear that the axle splines engage in are the bits that are welded in (the axle spline remains unmodified). Have a geeze at some YouTube videos and stuff showing how diffs are put together etc. to undersatnd them better. They're a very important part of a performance car and not too hard to get your head around. If the crown wheel and pinion gear are in good nick, you can just change the carrier (centre) itself with an LSD one. My advice is don't waste your time with anything that isn't an LSD or some kind of locker, ever.

Edited by Heath, 11 May 2020 - 01:25 PM.

[Swarbs]

This is the diff out of the "drag car" Mitch as you mentioned back at the start

 

I would suggest having a stand back look at what you want 

 

Your centre is stuffed - the brake set up is stuffed -- for at least licencing and heaven forbid insurance one day

What ratio and condition is the crown and pinion? it may be no good at all to you either

 

Lot of options and it all depends on what you want to do with it and what HP you are going to put through it = what your needs are

Edited by Swarbs, 13 May 2020 - 09:23 PM.

[Cook]

Hey Mitch.  Bright side is you have the family involved and the youngster is enjoying it.  You know he will be driving it one day.  Cheers Ron

[Mitchyboy]

This is the diff out of the "drag car" Mitch as you mentioned back at the start

I would suggest having a stand back look at what you want

Your centre is stuffed - the brake set up is stuffed -- for at least licencing and heaven forbid insurance one day
What ratio and condition is the crown and pinion? it may be no good at all to you either

Lot of options and it all depends on what you want to do with it and what HP you are going to put through it = what your needs are

The gears are 3.55 ratio.
Which is perfect for street I been told.
The brakes just need the dust backing plates and a rebuild hopefully 500 bucks from what I have been researching.
I was hoping to leave the salisbury in there, 1 because it came out in Toranas and 2 because i don't have the budget for minimum $5000 9 inch diff (got quoted) plus new brakes straight off the bat.
I am hoping the axles are still good I had another look yesterday and they should come out.
Replacing the centre with a second hand lsd is the plan atbthis stage if possible
Fingers crossed
Cheers



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[Mitchyboy]

Cut and shut the back passenger door.
Wish I done it at the start instead of wasting so much time attempting to heat up winch bend across etc.
Door gaps fixed.
Found double sized holes for the side mirror on the drivers door which I enlarged and patched with new sheet metal.
Also welded up the passenger ones will re drill when installing the mirrors.
Painted KBS rust seal over weld repairs on the boot lid and bonnet.


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[76lxhatch]

Nice work, sometimes you just have to start cutting

[claysummers]

Good result Mitch. What ever works.


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[Mitchyboy]

Decided to pull the diff apart after work today.
Well as much as I can anyways.
I found a brand new replacememt 4 pin lsd centre for sale from street strip gears for 600 bucks on eBay.
Planning to get that if my pinion and crown are all good.
The ring gears look great but I have noticed a tiny chip in one gear on the pinion gear.
Been googling and watching videos that say it can just be sanded smooth with a die grinder as the gears don't touch there but wouod like some advice
Cheers

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[rodomo]

She'll be right! Something must have been loose though? Pinion or carrier bearings.

[LJ RB30]

Decided to pull the diff apart after work today.
Well as much as I can anyways.
I found a brand new replacememt 4 pin lsd centre for sale from street strip gears for 600 bucks on eBay.
Planning to get that if my pinion and crown are all good.

 

I bought a new BW75 31spline LSD center from street strip gears (10 years ago) 

 

First burnout out of the water at the drags i realized it was single wheeling for 3-4 secs.

 

Second run and i was very aware of the burnout & it still single wheeled for 1-2secs.

 

Pulled the diff later to change ratio  & found the LSD cones had taken 2-3mm off each!

 

They are not made from the same metal as original! They are soft as crap!

 

Might be ok for absolute bog stock 6 but wouldn't bother if you have more or want to do 1 skid!!!

 

Truetrac seems to be the choice these days.

 

Ive had one in my maloo but never got to test it out before i sold it.

 

Hope this helps

[76lxhatch]

The problem with the cone LSDs is they are no good for sustained operation, any one-wheel action very quickly wears them out.

 

The pinion tooth will be fine, doesn't appear to be a fresh break.

[Mitchyboy]

I bought a new BW75 31spline LSD center from street strip gears (10 years ago)

First burnout out of the water at the drags i realized it was single wheeling for 3-4 secs.

Second run and i was very aware of the burnout & it still single wheeled for 1-2secs.

Pulled the diff later to change ratio & found the LSD cones had taken 2-3mm off each!

They are not made from the same metal as original! They are soft as crap!

Might be ok for absolute bog stock 6 but wouldn't bother if you have more or want to do 1 skid!!!

Truetrac seems to be the choice these days.

Ive had one in my maloo but never got to test it out before i sold it.

Hope this helps

I've been told by a guy who I was trying to buy a 2nd hand lsd center from to buy one from street strip gears.
He has a wreckers in Victoria. He said they are 4 pin LSD and are good for 450 - 500 hp. He didn't have any originals available and said even if he did they are only 2 pin and over 40 years old and im better off going with the new one. Maybe they have gotten better in 10years hopefully. I have looked at tge true trac but it's more than double the price and conflicting info about one leg spins with them too.
So confusing it's all new to me trying to get away with it for a reasonable price to be fair mate

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[LJ RB30]

I've been told by a guy who I was trying to buy a 2nd hand lsd center from to buy one from street strip gears.
He has a wreckers in Victoria. He said they are 4 pin LSD and are good for 450 - 500 hp. He didn't have any originals available and said even if he did they are only 2 pin and over 40 years old and im better off going with the new one. Maybe they have gotten better in 10years hopefully. I have looked at tge true trac but it's more than double the price and conflicting info about one leg spins with them too.
So confusing it's all new to me trying to get away with it for a reasonable price to be fair mate

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4 pinion Diffs are good for 450-500fwhp but no lsd will like that if any Single wheeling happens.
My 2 episodes of single wheeling that took 2/3rds of the lsd’s life away were on et street tyres & definitely both in water at the drags.
The second time it did it I backed off asap. Barely spun for a couple of seconds. 1st gear burnouts.
Prior to the street strip lsd I was using a stock 28spl Bw lsd that took WAY more punishment & survived better than the s/strip lsd but I was breaking axles so I bought the 31spl s/strip lsd.
I have 403hp at the wheels but gave up on lsd’s along time ago as the cone types these day I found were very low quality material & the car is now unregistered & only drag/circuit use.
Others I know have said the same about aftermarket lsd cones that were purchased
The truetrac honestly I can’t say that I tested it in the Maloo at all before selling it but a mate & his son have them in 2 valiants both with 5-600whp & like them.
They too have gone from stock lsd to goanna lockers to now truetracs.

I think I still have the s/strip lsd in a bucket in the shed! I’d gladly swap you the cig locker for it 😂😂

Edited by LJ RB30, 22 May 2020 - 11:55 AM.

[Heath]

It is not about the power, it's about what the diff centre does. You are talking about torsional strength, but you need to be talking about vehicle behaviour too.

 

My advice is just don't use an original G.M. cone LSD, get something aftermarket that doesn't wear out and misbehave. If you don't know what you want, get a TrueTrac. If you do know what you want, you'll probably end up with a TrueTrac anyway.

 

A TrueTrac centre in that diff, with the existing gearset (I would not worry about that breakage on the tooth), and a once-over on the brakes, should see you back in action with a cost-effective, good performing diff.

Edited by Heath, 22 May 2020 - 02:28 PM.

[Mitchyboy]

4 pinion Diffs are good for 450-500fwhp but no lsd will like that if any Single wheeling happens.
My 2 episodes of single wheeling that took 2/3rds of the lsd’s life away were on et street tyres & definitely both in water at the drags.
The second time it did it I backed off asap. Barely spun for a couple of seconds. 1st gear burnouts.
Prior to the street strip lsd I was using a stock 28spl Bw lsd that took WAY more punishment & survived better than the s/strip lsd but I was breaking axles so I bought the 31spl s/strip lsd.
I have 403hp at the wheels but gave up on lsd’s along time ago as the cone types these day I found were very low quality material & the car is now unregistered & only drag/circuit use.
Others I know have said the same about aftermarket lsd cones that were purchased
The truetrac honestly I can’t say that I tested it in the Maloo at all before selling it but a mate & his son have them in 2 valiants both with 5-600whp & like them.
They too have gone from stock lsd to goanna lockers to now truetracs.

I think I still have the s/strip lsd in a bucket in the shed! I’d gladly swap you the cig locker for it

Cheers for the info mate.
Don't frown on me but I brought the 4pin lsd center for it.
I figure it has to better than a stock lsd by now for sure plus I won't be taking the car to the drag strip and doing burnouts in water to be fair.
I got a guy who can install the center I supply and overhaul my entire diff with all new bearings and seals plus new bearings on my axles making it ready to bolt in all for $700 cash.
So I will get away with it all for $1,360.00.
Im a pretty happy boy with that at the moment to be honest as I have alot to purchase to get it going

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Edited by Mitchyboy, 24 May 2020 - 05:33 PM.

[Mitchyboy]

Playing in the shed today I went through all of my brake parts I removed and I googled all of the part numbers on my calipers and stub axles and have worked out that they are hz stub axles and Hq front calipers.
I am happy about this and now I will just be overhauling the calipers and buying new rotors front and rear. I need to buy the rear dust guards as well.
I have searched up my steering arms and it seems to be LX steering arms. I did read a thread stating that part number was a UC arm so now I am confused. Can anyone confirm this for me? Do I need to buy the A9X arms now cause of the bump steer issue?
I wire brushed up my diff the paint came off too easy. I plan to KBS the housing now.


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[Mitchyboy]

I also made up my home made bushing removal tool and popped out all the existing bushings. A few of the housing wouldn't budge and i had to relieve cut them internally with a hacksaw to get them out.
With the diff bushings the metal housing sleeve wouldn't push out either.
Silly question should I cut this also and remove it.
The new upper control arm bushing is sleeved yeah?
I just want to confirm before I cut it as it looks different to the others


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[Mitchyboy]

I also tried to remove the ball joints from my new UC upper control arms as they were stuffed.
I grinded out the rivets and i cannot get them to budge at all.
Thinking I will take them all to a shop to get pressed out as I dont want go damage them.
Just ordered the complete super pro bush kit for front and rear including tie rod ends and ball joints for control arms


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Edited by Mitchyboy, 24 May 2020 - 06:32 PM.

[76lxhatch]

Steering arm part number appears to be UC:

http://www.gmh-toran...ed/#entry365248

As far as which steering arms you want for best geometry it actually depends on your wheel alignment. If you keep caster low (maybe 0-2 degrees positive) the UC arms will be adequate, but if you want/have more then the A9X arms would suit better.

 

Yes you can remove that bushing shell from the diff upper arm mount, an air hammer with chisel will make short work of it (but use it cautiously to avoid damaging the surrounding area).

 

Front upper arm ball joint rivets should belt out but originals are often fairly tight, you just have to figure out a good way to support the arm to avoid damage while you use a big punch and hammer.

Edited by 76lxhatch, 24 May 2020 - 06:45 PM.

[Mitchyboy]

Cheers bud
I'll try them to start and as you say I can change them later once it's all aligned to see what I need/What's best.
I will remove that bush housing now aswell.
I was belting the F%$% out of it with a pipe supporting it underneath and it will not budge one bit mate.
Unbelievable not sure how much harder I can hit the bastard. Might need the sledge hammer and a very trusting helper hahaa
I might give it one more go if it don't work then submit defeat and go to a mechanic
Can't get the upper control arm rod bushing ends out either
Getting the shits with it ay hahaa



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[Mitchyboy]

I was bashing the ball joints not the Bush housing Hahaa a bit confusing how I wrote it above

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