653 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

No need for sledge hammers, you want a little more finness than that.

 

The shell in the diff can be deformed inward on itself now you've removed the rubber inner, this is where the air hammer is nice.

 

The front upper ball joints you'll need to remove each of the four rivets one at a time with a punch (or air hammer with smaller bit), its unlikely to want to come off all once.

[LJ RB30]

Cheers for the info mate.
Don't frown on me but I brought the 4pin lsd center for it.
I figure it has to better than a stock lsd by now for sure plus I won't be taking the car to the drag strip and doing burnouts in water to be fair.
I got a guy who can install the center I supply and overhaul my entire diff with all new bearings and seals plus new bearings on my axles making it ready to bolt in all for $700 cash.
So I will get away with it all for $1,360.00.
Im a pretty happy boy with that at the moment to be honest as I have alot to purchase to get it going

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No judgment here mate.
Just putting out my experiences.
You hopefully won’t have any issues 👍

Yeah I use an air chisel To push the ball joint rivets out too!
They can be stubborn 🥵

[Heath]

Nobody is frowning on you. We all have our different suggestions shaped from what we've experienced. I'm pretty black and white with opinions on LSD's for example, but people have been using cone-type LSD's for many decades and they're still quite satisfactory for a lot of applications.

I do hope you are going to use the LSD though. You sound like you might be a bit concerningly timid with this thing.

 

Love the rate of your work BTW. The passion and enthusiasm is abundantly clear.

[Mitchyboy]

Nobody is frowning on you. We all have our different suggestions shaped from what we've experienced. I'm pretty black and white with opinions on LSD's for example, but people have been using cone-type LSD's for many decades and they're still quite satisfactory for a lot of applications.

I do hope you are going to use the LSD though. You sound like you might be a bit concerningly timid with this thing.

Love the rate of your work BTW. The passion and enthusiasm is abundantly clear.

Thanks Heath.
Look what was awaiting for me when i got home today from work.
My brand new 4 pin LSD center. I only ordered it on Saturday around lunch time.
It's good im finally making some purchases now, i brought the super pro front and rear kit and my springs and shocks hopefully they come later in the week too.
I ain't gonna be timid when it's going mate but as you know its a long road mate and I gotta get it all together and on the road first. There will always be other upgrades to do with it when it's going as I have heard they are never finished
But don't tell my wife that one Hahaa
Happy about my brakes and stub axles but I am missing the front and rear brake dust plates do you know if these are needed for rego?

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[Mitchyboy]

Just a quick one, shoukd I get the pinion gear and diff yoke flange remove from my diff housing before I paint it?
Seems like the right thing to do would like to know what others have done
Cheers

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No judgment here mate.
Just putting out my experiences.
You hopefully won’t have any issues

Yeah I use an air chisel To push the ball joint rivets out too!
They can be stubborn

Mate them ball joints are off there head I can't get em to move.
I will try the air chisel now if not to the mechanics I go
Cheers

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[LJ RB30]

That LSD looks better/different to mine from memory. They may have changed suppliers.
Hopefully they have.
Will have to dig mine out and have a look.
Id leave the pinion in & cover on & paint it.

[Mitchyboy]

That LSD looks better/different to mine from memory. They may have changed suppliers.
Hopefully they have.
Will have to dig mine out and have a look.
Id leave the pinion in & cover on & paint it.

That's good to hear. It's alot heavier than the cig locker center.
You think anyone would buy the cig locker center for a burn out car or something?
If so How much you reckon I could sell it for?
The pinion has to come out for the bearing o change anyways doesn't it? I'm worried with the kbs rust seal if it gets in you won't be able to move it or even get the lid off.

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[LJ RB30]

If your going to pull the pinion (which you have to to check or change the bearings & also may need to remove to set it up correctly)  then do that then clean it all up, get the diff set up with the new center, seal, bearings etc, reassemble it then paint it.

You have to seal the cover anyway so it will take some prying to get it off if needs be anyway.

Paint wont add much to the difficulty of removing it. 

[Bigfella237]

Just to expand on Trevor's comment above... diff bearings aren't just a straight R&R.

 

The pinion preload needs to be set (can't remember if Salisbury's have crush tubes or not?) along with the carrier bearing preload. These need to be setup individually each without the other in the housing

 

Then the backlash and contact patch must be adjusted (I.E. the mesh pattern between the pinion and crownwheel teeth) by shimming either and/or both the pinion forward or back, and the carrier side to side, all while maintaining the previously set bearing preloads.

 

Salisbury's kinda suck to setup compared to banjo-style diffs, especially the Jap stuff with thread adjusters, but if any of the above is too loose then the diff will rattle and clunk and eventually destroy itself, or if too tight it will whine and overheat and eventually destroy itself!

[Mitchyboy]

Having trouble sourcing the disc brake dust backing plates for the front and rear.
Will the torana ones work/fit with my HQ brakes set up? Can't find an answer on this.
Do I have to run these?
Anyone help with sourcing this?


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[Heath]

Go without the brake backing plates. The only reason I'd use plates is if I welding a boss onto them and was connecting a flexible cooling duct to them.

I am not using them on my car, and I think you'll find virtually everyone with a brake upgrade on their car is not using theirs either.

 

I wouldn't rush to yank the pinion out of the diff. If it was set up properly with good bearings and no leak at the seal, you may not need to disturb it at all.

 

The new LSD carrier however will need to be set up to a precise lateral position (to achieve the correct pre-load, wipe pattern, and back-lash). In your case, you will probably outsource this work. Salisbury type diffs are more rigid, but at the sacrifice of being difficult to service like that.

Edited by Heath, 25 May 2020 - 10:43 PM.

[76lxhatch]

Will the torana ones work/fit with my HQ brakes set up? Can't find an answer on this.
Do I have to run these?

They will need modification, the cutouts for lower ball joint clearance are not quite in the right spot due to the spindle height change, and some additional clearance in the centre will be required for the seal/hub due to the reduced offset. HQ-WB didn't have dust shields.

[Mitchyboy]

Go without the brake backing plates. The only reason I'd use plates is if I welding a boss onto them and was connecting a flexible cooling duct to them.

I am not using them on my car, and I think you'll find virtually everyone with a brake upgrade on their car is not using theirs either.

I wouldn't rush to yank the pinion out of the diff. If it was set up properly with good bearings and no leak at the seal, you may not need to disturb it at all.

The new LSD carrier however will need to be set up to a precise lateral position (to achieve the correct pre-load, wipe pattern, and back-lash). In your case, you will probably outsource this work. Salisbury type diffs are more rigid, but at the sacrifice of being difficult to service like that.

I won't be setting up any bearings or installing anything with the diff at all.
I have a diff shop who is doing all that.
They are overhauling the entire diff including the pinion gear bearing so it makes sense to get it removed by them for paint then re assembled (by them with so new bearings) after paint.

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[Mitchyboy]

They will need modification, the cutouts for lower ball joint clearance are not quite in the right spot due to the spindle height change, and some additional clearance in the centre will be required for the seal/hub due to the reduced offset. HQ-WB didn't have dust shields.

I've been told you need to have them for rego. Is this true?
If no one's running them I won't bother with them unless needed for rego.
HQ had rear disc brake dust plates for sure, dunno about the front though

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Edited by Mitchyboy, 26 May 2020 - 02:10 PM.

[ReplicarSLR]

Yep the HZ rear discs have a backing plate/dust cover, the flexible line from calipers connects to the hard line on the tab mounted on the backing plate/dust cover. No backing plate/dust covers on front for L34 or A9X with the bigger HQ/HZ discs fitted.

[Mitchyboy]

Yep the HZ rear discs have a backing plate/dust cover, the flexible line from calipers connects to the hard line on the tab mounted on the backing plate/dust cover. No backing plate/dust covers on front for L34 or A9X with the bigger HQ/HZ discs fitted.

Cheers mate
I've rang every wreckers in Sydney and no one has a set.
I have found a few sets but they won't seperate then from the whole brake package.
Any ideas from anyone? I can't even source old Commodore ones either.
One wreckers told me that they get a call for the HQ gear everyday

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[Mitchyboy]

I couldn't remove the ball joints from my upper control arms at all. I only got one rivet to come out with my air chisel.
I gave up and dropped them at the local mechanics and they removed them along with the upper control arms bushes that i couldnt remove either.
Quick questions as I plan to sand blast and paint these over the weekend
1 - There seems to still be a sleeve left in the lower control arms where the ball joint was pushed out.
Do I leave this as is? (It looks like it should stay) or should i remove?
2 - I have noticed that one of the nuts are missing from the lower control arm where the shock mounts, is this a big deal? Should I weld a nut on before I paint or can I just bolt a nut and washer later to mount the shock?
It was there before it went to the mechanics
Cheers fellas

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[Mitchyboy]

Also i completely cleaned out the inside of the diff with brake fluid and compressed air.
I had my diff guy remove the yoke flange and all so I can paint it and have it all ready to drop off mid next week for the overhaul and new center to be installed
Happy Friday

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[Toranamat69]

The sleeve for lower ballpoint stays there.

Yes weld the nut for the shock absorber bolt.

Your sway bar bolt holes are ovalled out too. I'd weld those too.

Edited by Toranamat69, 29 May 2020 - 10:33 PM.

[LJ RB30]

Shouldn't the other upper control arm have a big L on it?

 

I thought UC's had L & R as the top ball joint is set back.

 

Earlier Torry's didnt have anything as they are the same left to right.

 

I got a UC set in the shed somewhere but too cold to find atm.

 

The box taxi boys will confirm or set me straight.

 

Yeah the repair ring in the lower arm stays.

[Toranamat69]

No L on left arm

[Mitchyboy]

The sleeve for lower ballpoint stays there.

Yes weld the nut for the shock absorber bolt.

Your sway bar bolt holes are ovalled out too. I'd weld those too.

Cheers mate
I planned to fix the ovaled holes for sway bar.
Need to source a nut now with the same thread.

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[Mitchyboy]

Busy day yesterday.
Dad and I set up the sand blaster in the back of my tipper and started blasting the diff and a few parts. The k frame was already prepped just hit it with a little 120 and some wax and grease remover.
A bit upset as my large 120l air compressor kept throwing the power and over heating it was really annoying to be fair.
I blasted the entire diff and the tops of the control arms then it started playing up and we decided to stop trying and focus on spraying KBS.
My first attempt at spraying with my super cheap auto blackridge special gun hhaa.
First coat went on really well.
Waited a couple of hours and hit it again before dark but the bloody compressor cut out half way through the k frame and wouldn't come back on.
Pissed me right off.
The k frame still looks good but I think I will give it a light sand and a once over through the week a few sections by OCD may not be able to cope with.
All in all not bad for my first go.
Any ideas on the compressor issue?
I even had an Industrial fan pointed straight at the motor and it was still killing the safety switch to the house.


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[Mitchyboy]

Ok guys so this is my compressor.
I haven't had an issue with at all up to this point except changing the head gasket.
I've sanded all day with a D.A sander and no issue.
I don't understand why it is tripping the power as it was and it seems it only did it once it overheated (after sand blasting the diff).
Any advice before I spend money?
I've Googled it and it says it could be an unloader valve issue.

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[Shiney005]

My big one used to trip the safety switch on the motor now and again, but I think it is more to do with the power supply out here in the sticks. It was measured here at 224 volts a few years ago.