653 replies to this topic

[claysummers]

Very well done. I had a go at getting one come to me bu5 didn’t eventuate. Tell your neighbour at least it’s dustless.


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[sibhs]

Great Job Mitch, your underneath looks as bashed up as mine is.

 

I'll annoy my neighbours for days/weeks when I sand blast mine.

 

Marty

[Mitchyboy]

Thanks fellas.
I did have a crack with my little one but I accepted defeat 2 weekends ago. Not powerful enough and all the wheel arches sound deadener takes way too long and too much sand to come away.
That would have taken me 6 months working on saturdays to strip all that back seriously.
Well worth the money. He started the machine up at 8.30am and it went until 4.30pm crazy day. They earn there money let me tell ya.
I been out there for another 2 hours leaning the yard today, wifes not happy hahaa.
I'd highly recommend him he was a champion.
It was cheaper than hiring a more powerful,larger machine and buying all the sand to do it.
My underside is a bit bashed up and my chassis rails need a bit of panel beating also.
I will have a go on all of them repairs next Saturday and hope to prep the underside all ready to paint the following Saturday.
Plan is to KBS rust seal 2 x coats then paint over that with the Raptor bed liner that I have got delivered now also.
Hoping that hides alot of the imperfections for me
Motivated to get it down asap haha


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[Mitchyboy]

Does anyone know how I should go about prep before paint now that I have had the bonderite sprayed onto the car?
Struggling to find info on it. It does say you can paint straight over after wax and grease.
I need to do welding, grinding and panel beating to the undedside and a little on the floors inside before paint.
So after repairs Should I still do the degrease then rust blast before I apply the rust seal paint?
Or as it is now in bonderite doni just wax and grease remover then paint KBS?



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[claysummers]

Not familiar with the particular product Mitch, but if it were me I would sand off as you do the rust, leaving the rest in place until you are ready to start surface prep. Then key with 240 trying to take most of it off before metal prep or rust blast and paint.


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[Rockoz]

Looks like an easy way to get it cleaned up.

 

What did he charge you?

Was it an hourly deal, or a fixed price?

Was looking a buying a dustless blaster when my health gets better.

 

Cheers

Rob

[Ice]

Looks good but also looks like a big mess to clean up

[claysummers]

I only use blasting in the awkward corners. Otherwise strip disc and wire wheel. Yes it takes time but can be enjoyable.

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[Mitchyboy]

Looks like an easy way to get it cleaned up.

What did he charge you?
Was it an hourly deal, or a fixed price?
Was looking a buying a dustless blaster when my health gets better.

Cheers

Rob

All that for $1000
Plus he sprayed the entire car with bonderite 253.
I got quoted $700 just to hire a machine to do it.
Then factor in the sand and going to pick it up and drop it off. Then I would of had to do it all.
Well worth it mate.




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I only use blasting in the awkward corners. Otherwise strip disc and wire wheel. Yes it takes time but can be enjoyable.

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The strip discs were just pushing all the deadener around when I was doing it.

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[rodomo]

[claysummers]

Yes that shit is awful


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[Hatchback13]

Big steps happening there, that’s pretty wild getting the sand blasting done at home like that but at least it’s all done in one hit. Keep up the progress 👍

[Hatchback13]

Is that raptor liner the kit with hardener with it? The one with hardener is great, leaves a good finish that u can wipe down nice, make sure u put plenty on, a little tip if u want a really nice finish use a primer gun with a decent size needle and cap, it comes out finer and really even. If it doesn’t have hardener I would 2pac paint over it, so much easier the clean when the cars all finished. Just suggestions though. Cheers

[sibhs]

Tip with the deadner.

Use a heat gun and a wood chisel to scrape 90% off then hit it with the nylon disc.

 

Marty

[Mitchyboy]

Is that raptor liner the kit with hardener with it? The one with hardener is great, leaves a good finish that u can wipe down nice, make sure u put plenty on, a little tip if u want a really nice finish use a primer gun with a decent size needle and cap, it comes out finer and really even. If it doesn’t have hardener I would 2pac paint over it, so much easier the clean when the cars all finished. Just suggestions though. Cheers

Cheers mate.
Yeah I got the one with the hardener in it.
I got the tintable version aswell and it came with the Schultz gun.
Im pumped to spray it on and am hoping it hides alot of the imperfections on the underside.


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[Mitchyboy]

Not familiar with the particular product Mitch, but if it were me I would sand off as you do the rust, leaving the rest in place until you are ready to start surface prep. Then key with 240 trying to take most of it off before metal prep or rust blast and paint.


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So I rang KBS today and the guy was familiar with the bonderite 253 product and said he had been asked this exact question in the past from a guy doing the same thing as me with his project car.
He told me to do all my repairs to the floor etc then complete the 3 step KBS.
Don't miss any step.

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[Ice]

Love the big Mal hangin on the wall

[Mitchyboy]

Love the big Mal hangin on the wall

10ft beast from Hawaii

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[Holdenbn74]

Looking good mate 👌

[Mitchyboy]

Last Saturday I finished up all welds on the floor. Made sure to get all the pin holes etc and patch where the harness points were in the floor.
The arse fell out my make shift trolley so I finally brought a real welding trolley.
Also got my brake booster, brake master and proportioning valve all reconditioned

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[Mitchyboy]

Massive day on the car yesterday.
I decided to stitch weld the entire chassis and diff arm mounts. What a mission. Ran out of gas half way through aswell coukdnt believe it.
Happy i did it all and that Its over now.
Dad and I also got the entire inside and bottom of the car KBS degreased and KBS Rust blasted.
We did it on the grass and got bogged haha
Had to tow it out with the ute hahaa.
Pumped to finally be at paint bottom and inside stage next Saturday.
2 years to get to this point so far

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[claysummers]

Very cool you’ve got the old boy on team Mitch. Your welding looks very good. Will improve rigidity and handling no end.


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[Bigfella237]

Looking good, Mitch.

 

I love seeing a true back yard build!

 

Any reason you went for a 6 cylinder brake booster? (The V8 equivalent of a VH271 should be a VH329)

 

 ~ Also got my brake booster, brake master and proportioning valve all reconditioned ~

 

 

[Mitchyboy]

Very cool you’ve got the old boy on team Mitch. Your welding looks very good. Will improve rigidity and handling no end.


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Thanks mate
My engine guy suggested I do it.
I decided not to do the chassis extensions in the end but I am happy I did this stitch welding/strengthening. Apparently that's how they were in the Bathurst days? Someone told me the A9Xs were seam welded?
I Made sure I got good penetration, was alot of work bud, happy with the end result
Cant wait till its rolling now


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[Mitchyboy]

Looking good, Mitch.

I love seeing a true back yard build!

Any reason you went for a 6 cylinder brake booster? (The V8 equivalent of a VH271 should be a VH329)

Cheers big fella.
Is there a difference?
That means the bloke at the brake shop told me a porky.
This is the booster that was on the car with HQ brake set up all around.
He told me they upgraded the entire internals of the system.


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