653 replies to this topic

[jeffblanco]

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I wish I had adjusted the indicators to suit the spoiler like you did.

Your indicators look so much better.

I never trial fitted the indicators and didn't realise they would end up so cock eyed.

At least they're ended up a mirror image on both sides.

The bumper hides some but not all.

 

Regards Mando.

[Mitchyboy]

Q-cell is what Heath is referring to.

I think you would be better off modifying the bottom end of the front spoiler. Sand back to about half thickness and make some strategic long thin pie cuts from the lower rear edge. Mask the flare, fit the spoiler and using it as a mould laminate multiple layers of cloth over the pie cuts and use masking tape to hold it tight against the masked flare. When the resin is gelled you can carefully peel off the tape or leave it until resin is cured and sand off when feathering the repair.


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Cheers mate
I will be giving this go really soon


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[Mitchyboy]

IMG_0560.jpg

IMG_0879.jpg


I wish I had adjusted the indicators to suit the spoiler like you did.
Your indicators look so much better.
I never trial fitted the indicators and didn't realise they would end up so cock eyed.
At least they're ended up a mirror image on both sides.
The bumper hides some but not all.

Regards Mando.

Yours look like they are going the opposite way to mine. Bloody Holden.
Yeah I think it's worth the extra time and effort mate
Cheers

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[Heath]

I wish I had adjusted the indicators to suit the spoiler like you did.

Your indicators look so much better.

I never trial fitted the indicators and didn't realise they would end up so cock eyed.

At least they're ended up a mirror image on both sides.

A major difference here is that one of you is using an LH nosecone and the other is using an LX nosecone.

 

The indicators are not at the same height. I prefer the higher-up version but it means you've gotta do a fair bit of fibreglass work to get them to fit well:

Ends up looking pretty different to Mitch's setup.

 

Sorry to steal the thread.

[Bigfella237]

Aesthetically, I prefer the look of the lower indicator position on the early LH's.

 

Obviously spoiler manufacturers need to make a 'universal' product that fits both versions, so the cars with the higher indicator position end up with a huge gap.

 

There really should be two different spoilers available to suit either position but that would be too much work it seems.

 

For my money, moving the indicators is the way to go. It may not be strictly legal, but I really doubt anybody would notice enough to get you into defect territory if later cars had the indicators lowered nowadays, and it's actually a lot less work than re-fibreglassing the spoiler!

[jeffblanco]

I thought my indicators didn't look that bad.

The way the indicators look on the front of Mitch's and Heath's car 

makes mine look pretty pissed.

I'm loosing patience, they'll stay as they are.

 

Regards Mando.

[Heath]

If you smash the front spoiler into something, you can change it then.

 

Don't worry about it now. Most Toranas look exactly like yours, Mando. Your car has so much amazing stuff to pay attention to, that area is not a big deal.

[LXCHEV]

Agreed completely - 99% of the population would never even look at or notice a lot of these type of things (myself included) - too busy taking in other cool stuff!

[Mitchyboy]

I Haven't updated for a while because I haven't been able to work on the car much.
Lucky if I've worked on it for 10hrs since January.
Having a baby has stopped a lot of Torana time for me let me tell ya. Plus been getting smashed at work lately.
These rear flares are taking a lot of work.
I drilled out and installed the nut serts for the rears.
I used a cotton bud and painted KBS in the holes before installing the nut serts.
I had them sitting near perfect so I fitted them with the rubbers and they changed again.
So f@#en annoying
I meshed the back of them and used the fibreglass metal filler to strengthen the cuts and began to body work them.
I still couldn't get them to line up to where I was happy with them.
My latest idea was to fill the gap between the 2 flares with paper and simply used dolphin glaze straight over the gap and onto both flares and sanded them down together so they will line up perfect.
Finally they are looking the goods.
But now I have noticed where I have packed them out and re glassed them into position that you can see that the inside edge of the flare hangs down a little lower from being pushed further back.
OCD kicking in.

Plan is to die grind this back to where it looks good and one more skim of dolphin glaze and sand it all smooth.
Hopefully that's the end of the bloody rear flares


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[Mitchyboy]

I've also been doing some other things in the back ground.
I've got new set of fully reconditioned seat belts and bolts, swapped over my old ones. All new webbing etc. They look unreal.
I sourced a perfect original black Dash Pad and sold my brown one.
Ordered the ASR high flow sport comp oil pan and pick up.
Brought the torque power high rise dual plane manifold. Comes this week.
Sourced a great condition front grille badge

Been trying to keep some stuff going whilst I haven't been able to work on it.
Still need a lot of parts but it's fun spending money, the Mrs is onto me with all these deliveries though hahaa

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[Mitchyboy]

I thought my indicators didn't look that bad.
The way the indicators look on the front of Mitch's and Heath's car
makes mine look pretty pissed.
I'm loosing patience, they'll stay as they are.

Regards Mando.

You could still move them if they annoying you so much mate.
It's not hard at all.
Just a little cut and 2 new holes and some touch up paint.
The blinker covers it all.

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[Mitchyboy]

I also brought MSD distributor, coil and MSD digital control box and a Crow cams double row timing chain.

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[kudu]

I also brought MSD distributor, coil and MSD digital control box and a Crow cams double row timing chain.

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I'm still deciding what to do on the ignition side of things for mine... I might just get one of those pertronix modules that fits in the body of the original dizzy.

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[Mitchyboy]

I'm still deciding what to do on the ignition side of things for mine... I might just get one of those pertronix modules that fits in the body of the original dizzy.

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I was tossing up between this and ice
Did a lot of reading and these seemed the go.
I didn't have any original parts mate

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[kudu]

I was tossing up between this and ice
Did a lot of reading and these seemed the go.
I didn't have any original parts mate

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Well that should do it!

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[Mitchyboy]

More parts arrived

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I also got taken for a spin in a replica LX SLR 5000 on the weekend.
It has a 355 stroker motor 565 HP
Now I'm pumped
Mine will be very similar built motor.
It went like the clappers!!!
Motivation levels high after that hahaa


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[Heath]

Just because you're motivated doesn't mean you can ignore your kid, though. Hahaha.

 

That manifold is the go. And some other great bits there, it all sounds like the go. Excellent stuff.

 

I hope you manage to find some more time, Mitchy!

[kudu]

I sourced a perfect original black Dash Pad and sold my brown one.
 

 

How much are these going for over there? I have a complete spare dash which includes a mint black dash pad.

[Mitchyboy]

Just because you're motivated doesn't mean you can ignore your kid, though. Hahaha.

That manifold is the go. And some other great bits there, it all sounds like the go. Excellent stuff.

I hope you manage to find some more time, Mitchy!

Hahaha
His the best mate!
I still blame him for not having the body kit finished yet though
I'll get there mate slow and steady wins the race haha

I also ordered some Yella terra roller rockers
6 week wait minimum.
Crazy lead times on all parts.

Plan is to have everything for the engine so as soon as I send it to the paint shop the engine goes straight over to the engine builders and hopefully 4 - 6 weeks later I have a painted car and 355 stroker engine ready to go.

But one thing I've learnt from this whole build is if someone tells you it will be done in a month you gotta double it at least


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[Mitchyboy]

How much are these going for over there? I have a complete spare dash which includes a mint black dash pad.

The guy wanted $550.
If I was advertising a Dash Pad as mint condition id clean it right up and armour all it etc.
I get there and this thing was absolutely filthy.
I went right over it not a scratch.
I got it for $450 in the end.
Cleaned up mint!!
Stoked with it.
Very hard to get good ones.
I've seen the dash pads advertised for $700 +


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[kudu]

The guy wanted $550.
Very hard to get good ones.
I've seen the dash pads advertised for $700 +
 

 

Cripes!!...I may have to see how much shipping will take to get one to OZ!!!....

[Mitchyboy]

Cripes!!...I may have to see how much shipping will take to get one to OZ!!!....

I couldn't find a good one for ages and I looked into getting mine restored from a place in Melbourne.
I had to ship it to them which from memory was close to $200 because it's over 1200 long and then it was $900 to have it re vinyl.
And it was a 3 month wait minimum.
Crazy mate
If you have the whole dash, upper lower and dash pad and all I reckon you could get up to $2k over here easy mate

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[Bigfella237]

~ If I was advertising a Dash Pad as mint condition id clean it right up and armour all it etc.
I get there and this thing was absolutely filthy. ~

Me personally, I'd prefer it like that.

 

I hate armour all. Things like dash pads tend to get addicted to it and seem to shrink if you stop using it. I saw it happen countless times in the car yard where a mint dash pad came in, the detailers drowned it in armour all, then if it sat out in the sun for a couple of months on the lot it would crack (not to mention the film of gunk that forms on the inside of the windscreen from the shit)!

 

They ended up switching to some other stuff in the end, I can't remember what it was, but it was something that just shined the surface like a polish instead of soaking-in.

[rodomo]

 (not to mention the film of gunk that forms on the inside of the windscreen from the shit)!

We had a customer that wanted her windscreen changed for this problem.

[Mitchyboy]

Me personally, I'd prefer it like that.

I hate armour all. Things like dash pads tend to get addicted to it and seem to shrink if you stop using it. I saw it happen countless times in the car yard where a mint dash pad came in, the detailers drowned it in armour all, then if it sat out in the sun for a couple of months on the lot it would crack (not to mention the film of gunk that forms on the inside of the windscreen from the shit)!

They ended up switching to some other stuff in the end, I can't remember what it was, but it was something that just shined the surface like a polish instead of soaking-in.

Mate it was filthy
Could have wiped it down with a wet rag or something at least
Cob webs and all.
It wasn't even barn dust
Just filth from neglect


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