653 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

Yeah Laurie.

A bit of copper serves a couple of purposes.

Helps drag the heat away to minimise distortion.

That in turn helps reduce blowing holes through while welding.

 

It gives a backing to the weld as well. Stops the pesky bits of mig wire penetrating through the gap, making the back side look like an echidna.

 

Its great too when welding to the end of a panel.

You continue the weld onto the copper. You usually get an nice flush end instead of the usual bit of blow out.

 

The welds wont stick to the copper.

Makes filling holes up a lot easier.

Ive welded up to 12mm holes nicely with a copper backing.

Anything over that I would cut a piece of tin out, or use a bit of round bar to help fill the hole.

Just grind the round bar off when the hole is closed up.

[Mitchyboy]

Back at it.
It was threatening to rain last weekend so I decided to have a play with the doors and my new compressor. Sat and Sunday neighbours love me.
I've decided not to sand blast the car and to sand and strip the outside myself now I have the large compressor. Plus I save 2k

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[Mitchyboy]

As you can see I have a bit of rust on the bottom of the two front doors in the same spot on both.
Started cutting out the drivers side first as it was the worst.
If you can see in the photos there is a channel in both front doors which when I shine a torch up there it has surface rust.
After alot of research I decided to use the ranex rust buster.phosphoric acid solution.
I sprayed this internally on the front drivers and rear drivers side doors and let sit for 24hours.
Then I have applied 2 x coats of bus satin black rust seal to the insides of the doors and even cutting my brush small and painting the back of both skins.
Very hard to do on the back door let me tell you

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[Mitchyboy]

Kbs rust seal is awesome to work with but even though I taped a glove to my flank and got my arm into positions I didn't think possible I still some how got it on my arms hands and nose at one point from leaning in trying to look in tge door Hahaa mission.

Question.
Any ideas how I can coat/treat that channel in the 2 x front doors
I can't get a brush in there of the kbs. Should I spray?
I don't want to use fish oil as I heard it smells on hot days. Is this true?

You can see I have welded up the holes with a handy piece of copper and my mig.



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[Mitchyboy]

Some more photos of the Kbs job I did on the inside of the doors
Plus I have circled the channel I am asking for advice on.
I found this stuff called Ferguson's knock out rust at super cheap auto and am thinking of spraying that into the sills possibly use it in that channel but i am scared it will smell later on.
Any one used or have any experience with that stuff?
I have also ordered some of the kbs paint stripper to see how it goes the one I have isn't very good and I think this car has 5 layers of paint on it.
Also i ordered another litre of the rust seal.
I am planning on doing the complete inside/floor/roof etc and the underbody with the satin black rust seal.
I am Leaning towards spraying these areas.

Only 2 doors internally to go. What a Mission
Planning on working all day sat again.


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[Mitchyboy]

Very next day delivery
Go kbs
Also i love eBay- new burnisher tool and house and coupler all ready for sat

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[Mitchyboy]

This is the stuff I was thinking of using in sills and hard to reach spots but hesitant as it may smell later
Thoughts?

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[Mitchyboy]

I've used the Ferguson's and havent noticed any smell from it.

That's good to hear
Was worried cause it has the fish oil in it.
What did you think of it?

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[Mitchyboy]

It was alright. It sprayed on quite well and only ran when I loaded it up.
There Is a video on their website that will give you an idea of how it sprays on.

If you can get a few extras of the extension nozzle that would be handy too.

Cheers mate
I'm definetely gunna give it a go in them hard to reach places

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[Mitchyboy]

Got the drivers door 95% done
Just need to drill the new holes
Happy with the end result

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[Mitchyboy]

Found some hidden cancer in the rear passenger side door. It's only in that one spot. I tried and sand blasted back then i cut it out
I sprayed the ranex rust buster to the complete internals of the 2 x passenger side doors.
Kbs internals is next - hopefully through the week
More rust repairs on the doors next weekend.

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[Mitchyboy]

Also this rear door didn't have a rail inside.
I'm guessing this was an original door and the other rear one with the rail is from a UC torana.
Is that correct?
Either way I'm sure i can fix it.
Will be alot easier to kbs the inside of this rear door though let me tell ya

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[Bigfella237]

ADR 29 (Side Door Strength) came into effect 1 JAN 1977 so any LX Torana with a "CLX..." or "DLX..." chassis number and all UC's had to have the intrusion rails in the doors by law.

 

I went back to the start of this thread but it doesn't mention what model this car is? If it is one of the later models it should have the rail in all doors.

[Rockoz]

Cold Gal isnt actually very good stuff.

I gave up using it many years ago in favour of paint.

Guessing because the paint finish is porous.

Used it a fair bit as an electrician for bracketry I made for outside use.

Even with multiple coats, it starts to have rust coming through in a month or so.

Im using KBS on everything that I uncover.

Welding after will likely wreck the surface a bit, but prudent recoating of those areas will proabaly give a better result than I would expect from Cold Gal.

[Mitchyboy]

ADR 29 (Side Door Strength) came into effect 1 JAN 1977 so any LX Torana with a "CLX..." or "DLX..." chassis number and all UC's had to have the intrusion rails in the doors by law.

I went back to the start of this thread but it doesn't mention what model this car is? If it is one of the later models it should have the rail in all doors.

Hey big fella
It's an LH torana SL

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[Mitchyboy]

Cold Gal isnt actually very good stuff.
I gave up using it many years ago in favour of paint.
Guessing because the paint finish is porous.
Used it a fair bit as an electrician for bracketry I made for outside use.
Even with multiple coats, it starts to have rust coming through in a month or so.
Im using KBS on everything that I uncover.
Welding after will likely wreck the surface a bit, but prudent recoating of those areas will proabaly give a better result than I would expect from Cold Gal.

Hey Rockoz
I am only using it as a weld through primer as you can't weld through the KBS.
I am painting KBS everywhere I uncover and spots that I can't get to with a brush etc in the doors i used that knock out rust proof stuff as it spray in with a little nozzle. U can see it in the pic.
Is there something better to use as a weld through primer??


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Cold Gal isnt actually very good stuff.
I gave up using it many years ago in favour of paint.
Guessing because the paint finish is porous.
Used it a fair bit as an electrician for bracketry I made for outside use.
Even with multiple coats, it starts to have rust coming through in a month or so.
Im using KBS on everything that I uncover.
Welding after will likely wreck the surface a bit, but prudent recoating of those areas will proabaly give a better result than I would expect from Cold Gal.

Hey Rockoz
I am only using it as a weld through primer as you can't weld through the KBS.
I am painting KBS everywhere I uncover and spots that I can't get to with a brush etc in the doors i used that knock out rust proof stuff as it spray in with a little nozzle. U can see it in the pic.
Is there something better to use as a weld through primer??


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[claysummers]

I use the dymark zinc gal as weld through primer, just for any panel overlap, rosette joins.


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[Rockoz]

I bought a spray can of copper rich weld through primer.

Gave an area I was going to weld a few coats, but once again after about a month a little rust was coming through.

Nowhere near as bad as the cold gal though.

I expect that as it is on an actual join, there will be less drama once it is less exposed to the elements.

But will be finding inventive ways to get more KBS into the area once I wels it in place.

Possibly using a syringe with some plastic tube on the end.

But will see when the time comes.

[claysummers]

The point of weld through primer is to get zinc in to the weld pool so the finished weld is resistant to rust. Any primer is by nature porous so won’t stop rust. Copper rich primer certainly won’t get zinc in the weld pool though it may offer better surface protection.


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[Mitchyboy]

Its been a while since I put a post up on here.
Been a bit slack woth the updates.
I have been chipping away slowly but surely.
I fixed up all the rust in the doors finally
2 coats of KBS applied to the inside door skins i even painted it on the back of the inside door skin aswell.
It was a mission. Sore hands after that exercise
Worth it I reckon. It brushes on great

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[Mitchyboy]

Started paint stripping and found some more surprises.

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Started paint stripping and found some more surprises.

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[Mitchyboy]

Patches all done on the doors and had a go at paint stripping the boot lid and bonnet.
That is a shit job. I brought the kbs brie and paint stripper.
Wire brushed the panel first then applied. Wrapped with cling wrap then scraped.
There must be 6 coats of paint on this car.
Having a go after work aswell in the dark.
It's gotta be done.
After I rust converted that spot. I applied 2 coats of KBS before I welded the patch in

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[Mitchyboy]

More paint stripping.
I'm finding the purple nylon discs works a treat on the panels after you have used the paint stripper first.
Just sore on me old Gary Jack (my back)

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