653 replies to this topic

[Mitchyboy]

I think that is Greg Manion's car, in which case they are the A9X bolt pattern flare, but they don't look as wide as the original ones.

The colour is Casino Blue.
Greg Manion Casino Blue.jpg

This gives you an idea of the size of the originals. (10 inch rims)
aa.jpg

I know it does look wider than the L34 ones but not as wide as the repliglass a9x ones. From photos and pics I've seen anyways.






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[Swarbs]

Saw you post in Mando's build thread about the tags Mitch 

The chassis number will match the ADR tag on the drivers side 

The VIN tag (skinny one in the middle) numbers match the body number on the passenger side tag

 

Have a read here -- http://www.gmh-toran...fying-your-lhx/

 

Should fill in the gaps

[Mitchyboy]

Saw you post in Mando's build thread about the tags Mitch
The chassis number will match the ADR tag on the drivers side
The VIN tag (skinny one in the middle) numbers match the body number on the passenger side tag

Have a read here -- http://www.gmh-toran...fying-your-lhx/

Should fill in the gaps

Thanks for this I'll double check again

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[Mitchyboy]

Had a play with the rear end and k frame after work today.
Pulled off the wheels.
14 x 11's on the rear. 14 x 7's on the front.
Stud pattern?
8mm thick aluminium spacer plates where fitted behind both rear wheels.
Pulled off the brakes all around.
Are the rears HZ brakes?
I think the fronts are standard torana SLR?
New brake pads were in all around hahaa score
The rear brake calipers seem so close to the inside of the wheel, doesn't seem to hit though as there are no scrape/wear marks inside the wheel.
Is that enough clearance?
There are chunks cut out of upper control arms on both sides? Any ideas why this would have been done. Spewing
Also took photos of the diff and found a stamped number on it.


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[Mitchyboy]

Sorry they are 14 x 7 all around. I read the jj as 11 hahaa

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[mugginz]

Wow, that upper control arm looks massively butchered for caliper clearance.

[claysummers]

Look like 4.25” pcd, which measure 62mm between adjacent studs from memory, so standard Torana pattern. HQ-WB is 4.75”pcd.


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[claysummers]

Yeah nah don’t like that control arm
Plod won’t like that or the spacers either


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[Shiney005]

No insurance with the spacers. You are better off looking for wider rear rims. The L34's had a factory notch cut out of the control arms, but not to the extent that yours have been done. You would at the very least run a bead of weld along the score marks where the cutting disc has gone past the holes.

[Statler]

Rear caliper is HX/Z Statesman so they should be the larger stud pattern . If the axles / caliper mounts have been fill / drilled it won't take much to correct it. 

 

Grab yourself some UC top control arms ( throw the existing in the bin ) , a pair of Harrop steering arms & some HZ calipers, stubs & rotors . You will then have the same wheel pattern on all 4 corners & the braking capacity of a A9X. 

[GTRMaxhunter20]

Massive job hand stripping to bare metal. Perhaps you are most of the way through by the time I viewed your string but one hint with paint strippers if no one else shared yet; they generally continue working whilst they remain wet so placing plastic cling wrap over the top stops the stripper drying out and you can leave it for hours to get the most effect from it and as it doesn’t dry out it’s easier to remove.

[Mitchyboy]

No insurance with the spacers. You are better off looking for wider rear rims. The L34's had a factory notch cut out of the control arms, but not to the extent that yours have been done. You would at the very least run a bead of weld along the score marks where the cutting disc has gone past the holes.

Yeah i think that's my only option now.
Spewing

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Rear caliper is HX/Z Statesman so they should be the larger stud pattern . If the axles / caliper mounts have been fill / drilled it won't take much to correct it.

Grab yourself some UC top control arms ( throw the existing in the bin ) , a pair of Harrop steering arms & some HZ calipers, stubs & rotors . You will then have the same wheel pattern on all 4 corners & the braking capacity of a A9X.

Thanks mate.
Sounds like a plan.
Any idea where I can get the UC control arms from?

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[Mitchyboy]

Rear caliper is HX/Z Statesman so they should be the larger stud pattern . If the axles / caliper mounts have been fill / drilled it won't take much to correct it.

Grab yourself some UC top control arms ( throw the existing in the bin ) , a pair of Harrop steering arms & some HZ calipers, stubs & rotors . You will then have the same wheel pattern on all 4 corners & the braking capacity of a A9X.

Cheers for this mate
I've been doing so much reading about it all but it's all a bit confusing hahaha
Any idea where I can can the control arms etc from.
Been searching the Net and no luck, no hits on face book pages either.


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[Mitchyboy]

Massive job hand stripping to bare metal. Perhaps you are most of the way through by the time I viewed your string but one hint with paint strippers if no one else shared yet; they generally continue working whilst they remain wet so placing plastic cling wrap over the top stops the stripper drying out and you can leave it for hours to get the most effect from it and as it doesn’t dry out it’s easier to remove.

Cheers pal.
I tried this way early on and it all still dried out under my plastic wrap? Is there a trick to it? I even wire brushed it first so.the stripper penetrated better bit it was still not the best.
Is there a specific brand u recommend?
My car has so much bloody paint on it like 6 layers haha

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[Mitchyboy]

Just purchased UCA on eBay from a wreckers in Victoria. Hope they sweet when they arrive

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[GTRMaxhunter20]

There is a stripper called citristrip that someone recommended I try but I had already found out the hard way and finished my car. I was told citristrip will work for up to 12 hours and remove multiple layers which would have been good to know in the beginning. From what I can gather, if you can prevent the solvent escaping from the stripper then it should stay wet. Thick/consistent application of stripper and plastic wrap should achieve this...

There is a stripper called citristrip that someone recommended I try but I had already found out the hard way and finished my car. I was told citristrip will work for up to 12 hours and remove multiple layers which would have been good to know in the beginning. From what I can gather, if you can prevent the solvent escaping from the stripper then it should stay wet. Thick/consistent application of stripper and plastic wrap should achieve this...

[Mitchyboy]

There is a stripper called citristrip that someone recommended I try but I had already found out the hard way and finished my car. I was told citristrip will work for up to 12 hours and remove multiple layers which would have been good to know in the beginning. From what I can gather, if you can prevent the solvent escaping from the stripper then it should stay wet. Thick/consistent application of stripper and plastic wrap should achieve this...

There is a stripper called citristrip that someone recommended I try but I had already found out the hard way and finished my car. I was told citristrip will work for up to 12 hours and remove multiple layers which would have been good to know in the beginning. From what I can gather, if you can prevent the solvent escaping from the stripper then it should stay wet. Thick/consistent application of stripper and plastic wrap should achieve this...

I brought the KBS stripper. it does work but like I said before my car has so much paint on it it's crazy.
I will Definetly give it another go like U have suggested and let ya know if I can get it any better.
I'll try wrap it up better.
I just brought a big cheap brand glad wrap I might try like a plastic dropsheet or something
Cheers

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[Mitchyboy]

Had a play with the drivers side sill patche and pillar repair. 1 sill patch left and the pillar to finish off.
It poured rain on the weekend like crazy.
So i set up in the garage and finished off the passenger side sill completely.
Sprayed more knock out rust up behind the patches after selling them in.
Winning slowly

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Had a play with the drivers side sill patche and pillar repair. 1 sill patch left and the pillar to finish off.
It poured rain on the weekend like crazy.
So i set up in the garage and finished off the passenger side sill completely.
Sprayed more knock out rust up behind the patches after selling them in.
Winning slowly

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[Neils LX]

I Did the passenger side aswell.
It was in a little better condition internally than the drivers side
You can see from the photos there is more surface rust either end where the wheels are compared to the middle of the sill. Maybe small holes and water getting in some how.
I did the same treatment as the other side.
Got this all done before Toranafest.
Also i got a legend off of the whisper Facebook page to cut out and bring me the dash cuts that I needed to Torana Fest.
Thanks again Neil!!!
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No worries at all mate, I'm on here just not very often as gave up on photobucket!

Great work on the car

[Swarbs]

UCA for UC's are not cheap these days as people have been using them for a fair while now on LX / H to correct steering issues that were built into the car

They are getting thinner on the ground 

Have a read here to get an insight as to what you may need to do - just putting the UC control arms will not solve the problems -- http://www.gmh-toran...-lx-rts-uc-rts/

 

Also have a hand typed "what you need to do" from another member here regarding the front end set up  - happy to post you a copy

 

https://www.ebay.com...&frcectupt=true

 

I bought a whole UC car just for the arms for 300 a long time ago  - mind you i got a lot of good bits off it as the body was completely stuffed

 

Maybe worth having a close look at that diff for lengths etc - if it has been dragged it could be cut to any length - hence the spacer as they might have needed clearance going back to a standard rim - may stuff you round later on

The caliper mounting plate is like nothing i have seen before and looks like it has been made to suit the application it was used in... it may be worth removing and going back to a standard set up

 

I built a Salisbury for mine using an old Statesman diff with the disc brake set up and had no issues bar the control arm mounting points which were modded and the length which i cut to suit the car

 

[grumpy xu1]

Don't forget, at the end of the lh / lx sills, the kink in the lower edge of the door, is pressed into the sill & fades from the top to the bottom, someone should be able to post a photo of what i mean, but they don't continue flat to the end. I think it's roughly 2" from the rear wheel end. Gary.

[mugginz]

Don't forget, at the end of the lh / lx sills, the kink in the lower edge of the door, is pressed into the sill & fades from the top to the bottom, someone should be able to post a photo of what i mean, but they don't continue flat to the end. I think it's roughly 2" from the rear wheel end. Gary.

 

 

 

I'll get a better photo tomorrow but yes, the sill does follow the arch profile that's in the arch part of the rear door.

[mugginz]

The nong "Professional" panel beater that had worked on my car before I took it back off him had hidden this feature with bog.

Edited by mugginz, 14 February 2020 - 07:08 PM.

[2redrovers]

The nong "Professional" panel beater that had worked on my car before I took it back off him had hidden this feature with bog.

I did the bodywork on Ron's hatch and initially made this mistake. I was working on the left side first and the detail wasn't very clear, almost so subtle it really just looked like a whoops in the panel rather than a proper line. I'd smoothed it up and went round to the other side to work on that and blow me, there's an actual line there. Hmm guess I better make the left match the right and not the other way around lol. Hadn't done a torana before then so I wasn't overly familiar with the details and quirks....

Side note, I've done quite a few old Holden cars and have noticed that they often have different feature lines from one side of the body to the other. More so than with other brands, must have been something in the way they made the mirror image dies and jigs. Another example was an original ht Belmont ute. Only had minor shopping dents down the sides so minor touch ups required. When it came to setting the body lines I noticed a big difference, one side was fairly prominent and crisp from nose to tail while the other side was a faintly defined round bump. I blended the first one down a little while sharpening the other up somewhat so it was close to matching around the whole car. Just one of those things...

[Mitchyboy]

No worries at all mate, I'm on here just not very often as gave up on photobucket!

Great work on the car

Thanks dude

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