653 replies to this topic

[Mitchyboy]

UCA for UC's are not cheap these days as people have been using them for a fair while now on LX / H to correct steering issues that were built into the car
They are getting thinner on the ground
Have a read here to get an insight as to what you may need to do - just putting the UC control arms will not solve the problems -- http://www.gmh-toran...-lx-rts-uc-rts/

Also have a hand typed "what you need to do" from another member here regarding the front end set up - happy to post you a copy

https://www.ebay.com...&frcectupt=true

I bought a whole UC car just for the arms for 300 a long time ago - mind you i got a lot of good bits off it as the body was completely stuffed

Maybe worth having a close look at that diff for lengths etc - if it has been dragged it could be cut to any length - hence the spacer as they might have needed clearance going back to a standard rim - may stuff you round later on
The caliper mounting plate is like nothing i have seen before and looks like it has been made to suit the application it was used in... it may be worth removing and going back to a standard set up

I built a Salisbury for mine using an old Statesman diff with the disc brake set up and had no issues bar the control arm mounting points which were modded and the length which i cut to suit the car

Thanks for all this mate.
I have been reading heaps about it but I am not a mechanic. Love learning about it all as I go along though.
I brought if control arms the other day and they arrived on Friday.
I will need to replace the ball joints etc but theh are on goof condition. Got em delivered for $550.
I plan to upgrade the front with the hz stub axles, calipers, rotors and harrop steering arms as statler already posted for me.
I have been reading alot about the calipers not having clearance though so I am still researching the best ones to get and which way to go now.
What's ur opinion on best hz calipers to get?

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[Mitchyboy]

Thanks for all the comments about the sills guys.
And don't worry grumpy I'm all over it. I noticed the arch in the sill before I started and I did test fit the rear doors whilst welding in the sill patches See photos, I'm happy with the end result.
Also my UC UCA arms got delivered.
Need to remove the ball joints, I just drill the rivets out yeah?


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[Mitchyboy]

Completely finished the drivers pillar today also and the drivers sill patches. Glad that jobs over.
Test fitting the rear drivers door and it wasn't sitting as good as the passenger side.
The top had a bit of a bend in it.
It is the door that has the crush rail inside so obviously been replaced at some point. From a uc?
Any way I bolted the hinges on and swung the door in place and I clamped it to the car and heated it up with my little propane torch.
Going to leave it clamped for a few days and hoping its fixed when I release the clamps.
If not any ideas?

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[Mitchyboy]

Also picked up a brand new complete flare kit from ernicks fibreglass. A few photos of it and the comparison of the plastic hood scoop vs the new fibreglass one.
Plastic one is a little higher and has a lip profile across the top at the back.
The old flares and the new ones are almost identical shape the old one fits inside the new ones. My guards are so butchered its gunna be a mission
Was planning to do the flares whilst my car is on the rotisserie as i have to replace the rear quarters first but I have read alot of threads about installation, no-one seems to do this whilst on rotisserie?
Any tips/advice appreciated.
Cheers

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[Bigfella237]

~ Also my UC UCA arms got delivered.
Need to remove the ball joints, I just drill the rivets out yeah?

You would normally just take an angle grinder and grind off the heads of the rivets from the top (ie. from the ball joint side, so if you grind too deep it doesn't matter as you'll be throwing the ball joints away anyway).

 

Then grab a pin punch and knock the rivets through and the ball joint will just fall out.

 

That's the easy part of the job! Next comes changing the bushes without bending the arms...

[mugginz]

 Next comes changing the bushes without bending the arms...

I bought a specific tool to avoid that.  I think it was around 60 bucks from ebay.  Was worth it to make the job easier.

 

 

Also, took more photos of the rear swage in the sill today and found out that I'm not, not a photographers ar$shole, and that I might actually be one as they were no better that the pic I posted above.

[Swarbs]

Thanks for all this mate.
I have been reading heaps about it but I am not a mechanic. Love learning about it all as I go along though.
I brought if control arms the other day and they arrived on Friday.
I will need to replace the ball joints etc but theh are on goof condition. Got em delivered for $550.
I plan to upgrade the front with the hz stub axles, calipers, rotors and harrop steering arms as statler already posted for me.
I have been reading alot about the calipers not having clearance though so I am still researching the best ones to get and which way to go now.
What's ur opinion on best hz calipers to get?

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For Brakes you need to speak to Datto - i used HZ axles - slotted Q rotors and calipers - the Harrop arms - UC uppers with moog ball joints -- so your all over it 

Running 15" hotwire rims with no clearance issues either front or rear

 

You just need to ensure hole height on the K frame is correct or all of the above is a waste of money

 

There are others here who seem to have devoted their lives to getting this right  - i just went off their advice as well  

 

As far as clearances go have you worked out a tyre / rim combo yet that you would like? 

[Neils LX]

Thanks dude

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And if you need photos with Bodykit is same place I got mine I have heaps of photos of fitting flares and cutting out guards / front firewall.

Thanks dude

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And if you need photos with Bodykit is same place I got mine I have heaps of photos of fitting flares and cutting out guards / front firewall.

[Rockoz]

Have seen a panel beater adjust door tops to fit properly many a time.

Place the main part of the door firmly against your legs, whichever side suits, depending on which way they have to move, then grab the top of the door and pull in the desired direction. It may take a few times, as you do it gingerly at first.

 

Not a difficult job, but looks weird to someone who hasnt done it before.

Sometimes you need a helper, especially if it has to go in on one end and out on the other.

 

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

Have seen a panel beater adjust door tops to fit properly many a time.
Place the main part of the door firmly against your legs, whichever side suits, depending on which way they have to move, then grab the top of the door and pull in the desired direction. It may take a few times, as you do it gingerly at first.

Not a difficult job, but looks weird to someone who hasnt done it before.
Sometimes you need a helper, especially if it has to go in on one end and out on the other.


Cheers

Rob

exactly what was done to the Sigmas coming off the line at Tonsley Park. Before and after the final water test and wash.


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[Mitchyboy]

For Brakes you need to speak to Datto - i used HZ axles - slotted Q rotors and calipers - the Harrop arms - UC uppers with moog ball joints -- so your all over it
Running 15" hotwire rims with no clearance issues either front or rear

You just need to ensure hole height on the K frame is correct or all of the above is a waste of money

There are others here who seem to have devoted their lives to getting this right - i just went off their advice as well

As far as clearances go have you worked out a tyre / rim combo yet that you would like?

Thanks bud.
I have been reading heaps about it lately.
I have been researching about just getting hopper stoppers now also, for all the hassle of upgrading to the hz brakes I'm thinking it may be worth it in the end.
I will Definetly have to check my diff length and set up etc as I would like to use the one I got if possible.
I wanna go 15 inch hot wires also! Only way to go in my eyes

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And if you need photos with Bodykit is same place I got mine I have heaps of photos of fitting flares and cutting out guards / front firewall.


And if you need photos with Bodykit is same place I got mine I have heaps of photos of fitting flares and cutting out guards / front firewall.

Cheers mate.
I have been reading every thread on this. Especially ruts one.
I Definetly won't be shy if I need help and may hit you up for photos regarding the firewall etc. I plan to do it on the rotisserie hope it works ok haha
Cheers

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Edited by Mitchyboy, 19 February 2020 - 09:11 PM.

[Mitchyboy]

Have seen a panel beater adjust door tops to fit properly many a time.
Place the main part of the door firmly against your legs, whichever side suits, depending on which way they have to move, then grab the top of the door and pull in the desired direction. It may take a few times, as you do it gingerly at first.

Not a difficult job, but looks weird to someone who hasnt done it before.
Sometimes you need a helper, especially if it has to go in on one end and out on the other.


Cheers

Rob

Thanks Rob
I still have it clamped up as in the photos above.
I'm hoping it's sorted when I release them if not I will Definetly be giving this a go.
I'll keep you posted

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[Mitchyboy]

I had a play after work on Friday.
Finished off welding the battery tray and had a go at the chassis stamp section. Too scared to go any closer. It went ok.
Also adjusted the rear driver side door

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[Mitchyboy]

The door is good every where but seems tight on the wheel arc. Any ideas?
Started to cut out for the rear quarter panel replacement.
My rear quarter on the drivers side has had more hits than Elvis. There was so much bog and all the metal feels lumpy.
Screwed it on and made my cut out.
Hammer and dollied as best I could to make it straight and welded the new panel on place.
Went well

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[Mitchyboy]

To make the panel good again would a shrinking disc be the go? There is no way I will be able to panel beat all of the lumps out. I didn't want to cut out half the car.
Any advice appreciated.

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[2redrovers]

I'm an advocate of the disc, had one for a couple of years and swear by it. Better than oxy in many cases. You'll be able to even things out and tighten up any drumming with it. You will have to work it in conjunction with hammer and dolly to bring the lows up and heat shrink the highs. The beauty is it only touches the high spots if you use it right. Need a spray bottle with water and a touch of detergent to lube the panel before running the disc over then to quench with after. Then I usually hit it with the air blower to dry and cool the steel faster and for a bigger quench/shrink.

If you haven't got one you'll also want a slapper/flipper type hammer. The flat paddle type which is used to knock highs down over a broader area while you keep a dolly behind a low spot and bring it up a bit with each hit. You can make one from an old file easily enough and the rough texture helps shrink a little as you go.

[Mitchyboy]

I'm an advocate of the disc, had one for a couple of years and swear by it. Better than oxy in many cases. You'll be able to even things out and tighten up any drumming with it. You will have to work it in conjunction with hammer and dolly to bring the lows up and heat shrink the highs. The beauty is it only touches the high spots if you use it right. Need a spray bottle with water and a touch of detergent to lube the panel before running the disc over then to quench with after. Then I usually hit it with the air blower to dry and cool the steel faster and for a bigger quench/shrink.

If you haven't got one you'll also want a slapper/flipper type hammer. The flat paddle type which is used to knock highs down over a broader area while you keep a dolly behind a low spot and bring it up a bit with each hit. You can make one from an old file easily enough and the rough texture helps shrink a little as you go.

Thanks mate
Ill give it a go and let you know how I get on.
It is so lumpy I don't even know where to start

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[2redrovers]

Thanks mate
Ill give it a go and let you know how I get on.
It is so lumpy I don't even know where to start

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In simplified terms, bump all the lows up and then shrink everything that's too high. It's a bit more to it than that but that's the general approach to start. You can't shrink lows only the highs, so if you turn the stretched inwards dents so they stick out you can then shrink the excess down.

[2redrovers]

It's a bit long but it's real time. Decent demo of file finished panel work. Might help with visualisation (not my video).
https://youtu.be/NFav_C36JHE

I did a series of seven videos when I repaired the quarter on this torana. This is the last vid which shows mostly hammer work from memory. Might be useful to you.
https://youtu.be/4BV-zAr0HhM
And this is how I work with the shrinking disc. It was a Kombi that I did a little while ago. If you watch a little you'll see how I work the water and air after the disc. Watch the light reflections and you will see how the panel moved around. (I don't expect anyone to watch the whole thing but you'll get the jist of it after a little bit)
https://youtu.be/hiIstaN5u9o

Edited by 2redrovers, 25 February 2020 - 02:00 PM.

[Mitchyboy]

It's a bit long but it's real time. Decent demo of file finished panel work. Might help with visualisation (not my video).
https://youtu.be/NFav_C36JHE

I did a series of seven videos when I repaired the quarter on this torana. This is the last vid which shows mostly hammer work from memory. Might be useful to you.
https://youtu.be/4BV-zAr0HhM
And this is how I work with the shrinking disc. It was a Kombi that I did a little while ago. If you watch a little you'll see how I work the water and air after the disc. Watch the light reflections and you will see how the panel moved around. (I don't expect anyone to watch the whole thing but you'll get the jist of it after a little bit)
https://youtu.be/hiIstaN5u9o

Thanks for this mate
I just watched them
Very helpful
Looks like I got alot of banging ahead of me.
Cheers

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[Mitchyboy]

After work today I finished up the rear quarter panel. I started to have a play with adjusting the doors. Fitted the front door and the fender.
Been reading heaps on here regarding the panel gaps.
Sounds like 5mm is the go before paint. Typical builder got a bunch of 5mm packers out to help me adjust everything plus I started from the back and made sure it works all the way to the front.
2 hrs later I have 5mm just about spot on every where and it's all lining up great except for the rear door wheel arch.
No matter what I did this is still tight. It is virtually touching here.
I'm planning to play with the rear flares there next and been reading you need to affix the flare to the rear door first up.
Should I flap disc back the arch on the door to achieve the right gap here also?
I plan to play with the other side another afternoon just for comparison and to see where it is at.
I know it's all hidden by the flare but wanna make sure before I go grinding away as there is no return after that.
Any advice appreciated guys



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[claysummers]

Thank that’s handy as you say. Been thinking about getting a shrinking disc for a while, not having oxy. Must say the pros make it look easy. Reckon I would have sanded through the panel on that first clip.


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[2redrovers]

Thank that’s handy as you say. Been thinking about getting a shrinking disc for a while, not having oxy. Must say the pros make it look easy. Reckon I would have sanded through the panel on that first clip.


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That was an f100 panel so it had a bit extra meat but he probably was a fraction heavy with the file. The point of the file is to scratch the surface at a flat height without really removing any thickness. Have to be super careful when you try it on modern car steel, a lot less to file away.

I'm glad the videos helped you guys out. I've done a few demo videos of various things related to making and shaping panels. All fairly simple tools because I don't have the budget to afford the big machines, so they are things easily repeated by the average diy guy.

[2redrovers]

For the rear door gap, if it's only tight there and spot on everywhere else, then in general terms you can grind away a bit from the door to get it spot on too. Just need to weld it back together so it doesn't separate from the shell. If you're careful you might be able to use a block and hammer to punch the edge of the dogleg away from the door, that might open it up a little and mean you can take less off the door.

I haven't done flares yet but I was under the impression that you had to cut the door corner a little anyway so I assume shaving it for a pre fit gap should be ok..?

[claysummers]

That planishing hammer machine. Wouldn’t mind one of them.

It’s never too late if you remove too much metal Mitch. Just more work glueing it back on again. I used your tilers method for aligning the doors on my FB ute and it works well.

Keep at it and by the time you get that body up to standard you will be a dab hand and ready to learn body and paint.


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