converting torana to hq stud pattern
#1 _ultrabluea9x_
Posted 18 August 2006 - 12:30 AM
any info would be a help
thanks..................
#2
Posted 18 August 2006 - 12:40 AM
sorry.
#3 _ultrabluea9x_
Posted 18 August 2006 - 12:44 AM
#4 _Herne_
Posted 18 August 2006 - 10:14 AM
Alternatively is there anyone here who has performed this surgery themselves who can tell Glenn exactly what to cut and where? As I stated earlier it is an extremely simple and effective mod to fit HQ type discs on a Torana stub axle.
Cheers
Herne
#5
Posted 18 August 2006 - 07:37 PM
#6 _torana_
Posted 19 August 2006 - 04:56 PM
i did this conversion a while back ( torana to hq )
http://www.gmh-toran...ic=1012&hl=line
cheers julian
#7 _ultrabluea9x_
Posted 19 August 2006 - 05:16 PM
#8 _pallbag_
Posted 19 August 2006 - 05:39 PM
And when people talk about converting from Torana to HQ/L34 front end is this what they refer to, or is there more to it apart from this and the stud pattern ?
Pic courtesy of Aidan's Hoppers stoppers installation thread
#9 _ChiaLX_
Posted 19 August 2006 - 06:01 PM
generally these do not have to be changed for a hq coinversion.
The part they do change is the stub axle which is the part the disc would bolt onto.
they are uually swapped left to right so that the calipers can be bolted on without fouling.
#10
Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:06 PM
torana's (Julian) link led to this quote "hi all
ive modified my lh torana to hq stubs on the front ( swapped from left to right ) and have bought a set of harrop a9x steering arms for the mod. I also have a set of wb calipers ( girlock alloy type )." end quote.
and is as i read above. if it can be done another way please let me know.
#11 _ChiaLX_
Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:15 PM
I believe you are correct. the only way I know of fitting hq style discs to a torana is also changing the stubs.
His best bet would to be do as macca said and buy blank torana discs and get them drilled to HQ
#12 _Herne_
Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:34 PM
Herne
Edited by Herne, 19 August 2006 - 07:35 PM.
#13 _ChiaLX_
Posted 19 August 2006 - 07:41 PM
#14 _Herne_
Posted 20 August 2006 - 11:14 AM
I personally do not know how to pick the difference so when I say I have HQ type disks on Torana stubs I am quoting what Bruce told me when I purchased the car.
Those who know Bruce will understand. Bruce also converted a modified HZ Salisbury 10 bolt to mount onto an LX floor pan about 9 yrs ago when my car was built. He was told that couldn't be done either lol Many have done it now.
Herne
#15 _Herne_
Posted 21 August 2006 - 02:51 PM
Where are the comments? LOL
I don't need to say 'told you so' hahahaha.
Ahh just thought of one thing that might not be so obvious, Bruce had to grind away a tiny bit of the shoes themselves to make em fit.
Cheers
Herne
Edited by Herne, 21 August 2006 - 02:53 PM.
#16
Posted 21 August 2006 - 06:51 PM
I was going to suggest they look like HQ discs turned down to the same diameter as torana discs and then they should go on the Torana stub axle with the wider caliper but I wasn't sure how the pad would clear when I looked at my setup. Removing some metal from them would solve the issue.
Are those UC steering arms you have on there?
M@
#17
Posted 21 August 2006 - 10:35 PM
but i spose it depends on how much mucking around/expense you want to go to, especially if you have to turn down the disc, all you would gain is ventilated discs and forfit possible larger pad area and then there is the benifit of the one inch drop by going to HQ type stub allowing you to have more suspension travel if you origionally lowered the torana setup.
i see some validation if you adapt this process but at the end of the day..........
#18 _Herne_
Posted 21 August 2006 - 10:55 PM
Yes the discs have been turned down about 20mm. The calipers are cast iron and not alloy due to the alloy ones tending to flex. Weight difference is of minimal consequence realisticly.
Steering arms are LX from what I am told by Bruce
Pads are ground down slightly so as the pad is the exactly the same as the caliper and fits snugly - all engineered of course! A tad of grinding also at the rear of the caliper for a snug fit.
Hi ALX76
No slur intended - yes agreed your statement was tad misleading esp to those who just read the forum and may not be in the least mechanically inclined, they may have thought I was bullshitting No harm done though. Caliper fits fine with the tiniest amount of grinding, very minimal infact. Dont know about the expense as Bruce does most of the work himslef and machining he may get done as a favour or at a very minimal cost - perks of being in the trade for a a good number of years and helping each other out. My car was setup with handling and braking in mind! Anything else is secondary and dont forget this work was done about 9 yrs ago and the car is only on its second set of pads after pulling some impressive times on the track on many an occasion.
At the end of the day I have a very well behaved Torana that brakes extremely well.
Cheers
Herne
Edited by Herne, 21 August 2006 - 10:56 PM.
#19
Posted 21 August 2006 - 11:06 PM
"this work was done about 9 yrs ago and the car is only on its second set of pads after pulling some impressive times on the track on many an occasion."
let me know what pads you using as i get around 6 weeks on hard driving and about 8 months if i cruse.
cheers T.
#20 _ultrabluea9x_
Posted 21 August 2006 - 11:21 PM
Message Forwarded From Struggler
QUOTE
QUOTE
QUOTE
andrew
i forgot to ask when i rang you,
will i need the standard torana disc brake hub? or the torana drum brake hub for your way of fitting the HQ brakes?
i got a set of each now
can you give me a short run down on any other parts i will need for that conversion done the right way?
cheers
mick
You use the existing torana disc stubs, the HQ disc uses the same bearing. In order to clear the caliper you will need to machine about 6mm off the external diameter of the HQ disc, also get the disc machined thru the whole pad face (right up to the hub). The caliper will also bolt on but you will need to perform some clearance grinding to clear the tie rod end. Every thing just bolts on.
ok, when you say machine 6mm off the external diameter, thats on the outside of the disc? Yes, reduce the overall diameter of the disc by about 10mm (5-6mm off the radius)
and when you say get the disc machined thru the whole pad face, is that so i can use the torana calipers? No you will be using the HQ caliper but because they are bolting in the torana location they will sit about 6mm closer to the centre of the disc
or is the hq the one to use? Yes
sorry mate i am just trying to get my head around it before we pull everything off
cheers
mick
ived this post from yirriss,originally posted by struggler(where are you know)
#21 _Herne_
Posted 22 August 2006 - 12:01 AM
Cheers
Herne
#22 _Herne_
Posted 22 August 2006 - 12:03 AM
I will ask Bruce as I have no idea what they are without removing them and not sure if I could tell then lol he did mention something about not breathing in the dust lol ahem......hey Herne,
"this work was done about 9 yrs ago and the car is only on its second set of pads after pulling some impressive times on the track on many an occasion."
let me know what pads you using as i get around 6 weeks on hard driving and about 8 months if i cruse.
cheers T.
Cheers
Herne
#23 _Herne_
Posted 22 August 2006 - 11:29 AM
Hi again
Just realised how my statement of only on its second set of pads in 9 yrs could seem misleading at the least lol
To clear it up a tad, the car only did 20K in its first 7.9yrs (approx) of life. Some of that was done at Wakefield park.
Since I have owned the car I have clocked up 6k in around 15 months or so.
The pads are still very fine at this point in time.
For a comparison - Bruce and his buddy were out at Wakefield park for a days testing. His buddy with an S/L hatch (I am not sure what brakes it has) went through two sets of pads, Bruce's brakes were fine and hardly showing wear. Obvioulsy a whole lot depends on car setup and how its is driven.
Cheers
Herne
#24
Posted 11 June 2014 - 03:36 PM
Super Bump
#25
Posted 11 June 2014 - 04:46 PM
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